Questions about test readings

[Noviceafter2yea]

Sorry if I am posting in the wrong area.

Background: I've had my tank for 2 years. I've had many problems resulting in many deaths (and I cried my eyes out after each) and got down to 1 fish when I was advised to start all over. I bought a new glass and started over. Added quick start and transferred my remaining fish, bleeding heart tetra, to the new tank because the other one was terrible.

Had weekly readings done at petco and after 3 weeks, I began adding new fish. I also set up a quarantine tank at this time. That was a few months ago.

I have had three plecos die on me, but the other fish seem to be fine.

I bought an API freshwater test kit and the readings are troubling me. At first, things were fine with slight fluctuations here and there. Now, there are major spikes that concern me.

Currently in my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium, I have the following fish:
3 bleeding heart tetras
3 platys
2 Corey catfish
1 dalmation mollie
1'guppie
1 snail

Please note: I added the catfish and snail After the 3rd pleco died

I do not plan on adding any more.

Prior to my first scary reading, my results were Ammonia .25, Nitrite .25, Nitrate about 2.5, PH 6.

5-28 readings: Ammonia 8 Nitrite 1 Nitrate 2.5 PH 7.6

Did about 25% water change using tap water with Amquel plus and Nova aqua plus in the pre filled bottles which had been sitting for a few days. Also added extra Amquel and nova aqua directly to tank. This had been my regular routine during time of slight fluctuating readings. Prior to changed readings, I was using aquarium salt, but have since discontinued because I was reading different things about its usefulness and because I am worried about hurting the snail. Added very small amount of quick start because I thought maybe the tank was re-cycling.

5-29 reading: ammonia 4

Did 20% water change using tap water BUT I switched to prime and stress guard which were in the pre filled bottles for only a day. Also added a bit directly to the tank.

5-30 reading: ammonia 4, Nitrite .25, nitrate 0, ph 7.4

Did 20% water change using the same process as 5-29.

6-2 reading: Ammonia about 6, Nitrite .25-.5, Nitrate 0, PH 7.5
The pre conditioned water had been sitting for 3 days this time.

Haven't done water change yet because I want to get some feedback. I siphon the gravel about 2 times-3 times month. That usually results in about 40% water change.

So far, fingers crossed, my fish have not displayed any symptoms of distress. I feed them once a day with one small pinch of flakes in very small pieces and 1 tablet of bottom feeder stuff for the catfish. The other fish usually tear at the tablet after quickly eating the flakes within 1 minute.

Btw, when I had the water tested at petco

What is going on!?!

So sorry for the long question.

 

[Mebbid]

Your ammonia is through the roof. For it to be at a safe level for fish you need to do a 50% water change any time it hits 0.5ppm. Following that, you should do a water change the same way with nitrites. Lastly, the water needs.to be changes whenever the nitrates hit 40ppm.

Are you changing your filter media?
Are they using test strips or testing liquid?

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

Test readings

I am using the liquid tests. Changed the charcoal in my filter media about 5-18ish, but used the same old bag which I also soaked in the removed water. I did rinse the bag, though, to get the black charcoal out. I am not positive, but I think I put the de-charcoaled bag in the removed water again before adding to filter. At petco, they used the paper strips and told me the readings were fine because the ammonia was less than 1.

Any idea why the ammonia is so high, has been for days, and my fish are showing now signs of distress?

 

[BBradbury]

Your Tank

Hello Novice...

I don't believe any serious waterkeeper hasn't had a fish or two die on them. You put out quite a bit of information and frankly, I didn't get through it. I can give you some basics that keep my tanks clean, and clean, treated water will eliminate most if not all your tank problems.

Get a decent sized tank, at least 30 gallons. A 55 gallon tank is likely best. There's a lot of water to dilute mistakes.

Get some floating plants in the tank. Anacharis, Hornwort and Pennwort. Just drop individual stems of as many of these plants as possible into the water. They are natural water filters and help remove toxins from the fish wastes.

Get a reliable water testing kit and test the tank water daily for traces of ammonia and nitrite. These forms of nitrogen are extremely toxic to fish. Just learn how to test the water and if you have a trace of either of these two toxins, change 25 percent of the water and replace it with pure, treated tap water. You're doing this to grow a healthy colony of beneficial bacteria that will use the ammonia and nitrite for food as the fish produce them.

Just test daily and remove the water when needed. When several daily tests show no traces of the above toxins, the water is safe for the number of fish you have. From this point on, you'll have to change half the tank water every week for a tank up to 30 gallons. Tanks larger than 30 gallons can go 2 weeks between 50 percent water changes. But you must stick to this routine or the toxins from the fish wastes will build up and make the fish sick.

This should be enough information to get you started back on the right track.

B

 

[Mebbid]

I am using the liquid tests. Changed the charcoal in my filter media about 5-18ish, but used the same old bag which I also soaked in the removed water. I did rinse the bag, though, to get the black charcoal out. I am not positive, but I think I put the de-charcoaled bag in the removed water again before adding to filter. At petco, they used the paper strips and told me the readings were fine because the ammonia was less than 1.

Any idea why the ammonia is so high, has been for days, and my fish are showing now signs of distress?

Alright, so if you are using liquid tests could you test the water and let me know exactly what it says? Ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate is enough. Also, be sure to follow the directions on your nitrate kit precisely as they are easy to mix up which gives you a 0ppm reaading. We really should be seeing a 0 Ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and positive nitrate reading.

As for the carbon, you don't need to change carbon out at all. It's an unnecessary additive into your aquarium. I am assuming that rinsing your carbon in tap water is what's causing you to have elevated water parameters if I'm reading your post correctly.

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

Testing issues

When you say test the water, do you mean my tap water? I just did a 40% water change with siphoning because I got worried. I added less than a teaspoon of,aquarium salt.

I have my testing vials in a makeshift holder (styrofoam) and each slot has a label. My labels are short-handed as n3 and n2 (nitrAte and nitrIte respectively). I wash out the tubes between each testing session.

Is it possible by adding a tiny bit of quick start, my readings are skewed? Or the prime? Or the stress coat?

It is so weird because my fish are not acting strangely at all.

Also, The expiration year for the testing kit is 2019.

Thank you so much for taking your time to help me!

 

[Mebbid]

When you say test the water, do you mean my tap water? I just did a 40% water change with siphoning because I got worried. I added less than a teaspoon of,aquarium salt.

I have my testing vials in a makeshift holder (styrofoam) and each slot has a label. My labels are short-handed as n3 and n2 (nitrAte and nitrIte respectively). I wash out the tubes between each testing session.

Is it possible by adding a tiny bit of quick start, my readings are skewed? Or the prime? Or the stress coat?

It is so weird because my fish are not acting strangely at all.

Also, The expiration year for the testing kit is 2019.

Thank you so much for taking your time to help me!

Nope, I meant your tank water although the readings on your tap wouldn't hurt to test every 4 months or so

Any dechlorinators aren't going to skew your readings any. There are rumors that prime will but it's just a miscommunication between Seachem and aquarists that led to that false rumor.

Honestly, it almost never hurts to do a water change so if you ever feel like it then go ahead and rock out with one.

It's also no problem, I'm always glad to help

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

Test issues

Ok. Just re-tested the water.

Ammonia between 1 and 2, I am having a really hard time pinpointing the exact amount/color.

N2 nitrIte between 0 and .25, it is a light blue, but not the aqua blue on the card. Not yet purple (which would be the .25)

N3 nitrAte strong 0

PH 7.6

 

[Mebbid]

Ok. Just re-tested the water.

Ammonia between 1 and 2, I am having a really hard time pinpointing the exact amount/color.

N2 nitrIte between 0 and .25, it is a light blue, but not the aqua blue on the card. Not yet purple (which would be the .25)

N3 nitrAte strong 0

PH 7.6

Alright, with a 1 - 2 ppm ammonia you are going to need to do multiple 50% water changes. You can do them safely within 1 - 2 hours of each other.

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

Testing issues

By the time it is 2 hours since the water change, it will be dark. Do you think I can wait until first thing tomorrow morning?

 

[Mebbid]

By the time it is 2 hours since the water change, it will be dark. Do you think I can wait until first thing tomorrow morning?

I would imagine it would be okay. Here is a chart on ammonia toxicity for your reference.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/your-guide-to-ammonia-toxicity-159994.html

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

Testing issues

According to the chart I am between safe and warning since my tank temp is at 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Thank you. Would it be okay if I check back in with you tomorrow?

 

[Mebbid]

According to the chart I am between safe and warning since my tank temp is at 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Thank you. Would it be okay if I check back in with you tomorrow?

Sure, I'll be around

 

[treemanone2003]

Nope, I meant your tank water although the readings on your tap wouldn't hurt to test every 4 months or so



Any dechlorinators aren't going to skew your readings any. There are rumors that prime will but it's just a miscommunication between Seachem and aquarists that led to that false rumor.



Honestly, it almost never hurts to do a water change so if you ever feel like it then go ahead and rock out with one.



It's also no problem, I'm always glad to help

Here is an email to me directly from Seachem in regards to Prime and false positives. Op, this may sound a bit confusing but it just backs what Mebbid is saying.

Edit : email I forgot to attach.

Hello George,

Thank you for your email. The false positive that will show on an ammonia test kit in the presence of Prime is not the result of an indication of ammonia when there is not any present. The "false positive" is referring to showing a false positive for toxic free ammonia. Since Prime has bound all of the ammonia in a system to an ionized NH4 form, it will still show up on a test kit as total ammonia, but it will be present in the system in a form that is not toxic to the fish. The only way to differentiate between NH3 and NH4 ammonia in the presence of Prime will be by using gas exchange technology such as what is utilized in our Ammonia Alert or MultiTest: Ammonia test kit or the Ammonia Alert. If you are using other conventional test kits on the market in the presence of Prime then you will get a reading for total ammonia, even though there will not be any toxic ammonia present in the system as long as you have used the proper concentration to fully bind the ammonia present.

 

[Mebbid]

Here is an email to me directly from Seachem in regards to Prime and false positives. Op, this may sound a bit confusing but it just backs what Mebbid is saying.

Edit : email I forgot to attach.

Hello George,

Thank you for your email. The false positive that will show on an ammonia test kit in the presence of Prime is not the result of an indication of ammonia when there is not any present. The "false positive" is referring to showing a false positive for toxic free ammonia. Since Prime has bound all of the ammonia in a system to an ionized NH4 form, it will still show up on a test kit as total ammonia, but it will be present in the system in a form that is not toxic to the fish. The only way to differentiate between NH3 and NH4 ammonia in the presence of Prime will be by using gas exchange technology such as what is utilized in our Ammonia Alert or MultiTest: Ammonia test kit or the Ammonia Alert. If you are using other conventional test kits on the market in the presence of Prime then you will get a reading for total ammonia, even though there will not be any toxic ammonia present in the system as long as you have used the proper concentration to fully bind the ammonia present.

Like I said, miscommunication The ammonia is there whether its ammonia or ammonium. There's a constant flux between the levels of ammonia and ammonium anyways which is what the link I posted goes into detail about.

 

[treemanone2003]

Like I said, miscommunication The ammonia is there whether its ammonia or ammonium. There's a constant flux between the levels of ammonia and ammonium anyways which is what the link I posted goes into detail about.

I saw the link but couldn't follow. My mobile device is a little constipated tonight for some reason but figured it was a close match to the "gifted" folks at Seachem. ??

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

Testing issues

So, uh, does that mean I am okay at my ammonia levels and don't need to do a 50% water change tomorrow? Also, does it mean I have to buy another testing product that is gaseous?

I love my fish, but I never realized how high maintenance a fresh water tank is.

 

[Mebbid]

So, uh, does that mean I am okay at my ammonia levels and don't need to do a 50% water change tomorrow? Also, does it mean I have to buy another testing product that is gaseous?

I love my fish, but I never realized how high maintenance a fresh water tank is.

Not necessarily. Ammonia is a very toxic thing and any nitrogen will have an effect on a fishes immune system making them more prone to disease. It's best to do the water change than leave things to chance.

The gaseous testing equipment too expensive to bother with. I wouldn't even know where to get one. Treat all ammonia readings as though they were straight ammonia and everything will be fine.

 

[treemanone2003]

So, uh, does that mean I am okay at my ammonia levels and don't need to do a 50% water change tomorrow? Also, does it mean I have to buy another testing product that is gaseous?



I love my fish, but I never realized how high maintenance a fresh water tank is.

No you're not okay. Ammonia has toxicity levels that vary depending on pH. As Mebbid pointed out, it's still toxic. Your best course of action, IMO, is WC's. And large volume to control the spikes. No two ways about it.

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

Testing issues

I did about a 20% water change earlier today. Before I did it, the Ammonia was at 2. After, it seemed a bit higher. Ph 7.4. Temp 79 degrees Fahrenheit. I may stop using prime and go back to Amquel plus to see if that makes a difference. I will have to do that the time after next as I already refilled my water jugs and put prime in them.

Fish seem fine. I don't want to jinx it. All are eating, swimming around, and pooping.