I would try a different flake food. I have noticed that some contain far more phosphates than others. I use Big Al's staple flake food and find it contains a high amount of phosphates. I keep my levels around 1-2ppm without any phosphate dosing just with feedings. My tap also has 0.5ppm phosphate.
And if you levels are over 10ppm, you definately need to lower that amount. While it is true phosphate does not directly cause algae, the proper ratio (commonly kept around 10:1, but some keep closer to 5:1) would mean your nitrAtes would have to be between 50-100ppm. While 50 is really not that bad for the fish (I keep my nitrAtes around 40ppm most of the time), 100ppm is probably not a good thing for extended periods of time.
What I'd be interested is a phosphate test RIGHT AFTER a large PWC. A quick experiment you can do to find the source would be to do a large (or several) PWC's back to back to get a usable number (say 1-2ppm which is easy to distiguish). Now wait 24hours WITH NO FEEDINGS AND THE LIGHTS OFF. Then test your phosphates again.
If the levels are the same, you can be pretty sure its coming from the food source. If the levels are slightly higher, you can also be pretty sure its the food source (fish are still creating waste). If the levels are back up above 10ppm, you can be confident your fish food is not the root cause.
How much mulm do you have in the tank? I just separated my anubias that I got way back in March of this year. It had tripled in size and the rhizome which was above the surface with all of its roots had created a large deposit of mulm (fish waste, uneaten food, plant debris). While this is perfect for the plant as it will have a makeshift "root tab", it can play havoc with your water parameters as the rotting can leach large amounts of organics into the water.
It might be a good time for a good substrate cleaning and/or filter cleaning. I notice that I can bottom out my nitrAtes after a good substrate/filter cleaning, whereas it normally rises on its own until a weekly water change. This is due to all the ammonia being converted to nitrAte from the rotting.
Just to get an idea of your phosphate level do a serial dilution to find the actual amount you have in the tank (10ppm is impossible to accurately read with most test kits). Take a shot glass and fill it with tank water. Dump into a larger cup. Now take the shot glass and fill it with tap water (or better yet a water source that has no detectable phosphates like RO, distilled, or bottled water but CHECK the source anyways). Add that to the cup.
Measure the phosphate level. Multiply by 2 for your tank level. If this is still too high for a good value add another shot of non-tank water. Measure. If this value is good, multiply the number by 3 for your tank level.
I would suggest if you are over 10ppm (honestly over 5ppm) to do a large PWC with a good substrate vac and filter cleaning IF you determine the high phophates are NOT coming from your food supply.
High phosphates are also normally present in buffer products, so if you are using them, I would recommend stopping.