Silent cycling

[Eggheadfish]

Hi all,
I searched this forum for a thread on silent cycling, but I only found a note about it from earlier this year.
I had always figured plants would help speed up the process, but I never realized there was a complete cycling method surrounding it.
I think this is a great topic for those who want to start up a tank which they plan to plant, but assumed a fish in or ammonia based fishless cycle are really the only options.
I've read a little bit on the topic, but I was hoping some more seasoned members (mebbid! I know you know!) could provide some of their methodology, tips, and tricks
For example: what plants work best (fast growing)
If CO2 dosing or any type of root tabs or ferts are necessary
What % of the tank space was planted
Links to good sources
Etc
I may experiment with this a little on my new tank, but of course I'm going to seed a filter on my existing tank just out of paranoia
Thanks in advance!

 

[Fatboyfish]

The chances of someone acquiring a plant or multiple plants that haven't been exposed to a preexisting cycled tank is slim. Nitrifying bacteria colonize all surfaces within an aquarium. Making this type of cycling merely an illusion. Because all you are doing is adding seeded materials(plants).

 

[jetajockey]

I'd venture to say the amount of nitrifying bacteria you'll get on plants is negligible. It's commonly understood that the bulk of the nitrifying bacteria is in the filter system. This is why antibiotic meds always say to remove the filter media while treating.

As for how many plants you'll need for a silent cycle. The simple answer is a lot. I do a lot of tanks like this, and I just put as many plants as I can feasibly put in there. There's no real general rule of thumb since fish loads, plant type/ability, lighting etc, can all vary.

 

[Fatboyfish]

I'd venture to say the amount of nitrifying bacteria you'll get on plants is negligible. It's commonly understood that the bulk of the nitrifying bacteria is in the filter system. This is why antibiotic meds always say to remove the filter media while treating.

Ewps! Did you mean remove carbon? Yes removing carbon is wise. Negligible? Exactly the word I could have used. Even a small or tiny amount would offset the validity of the whole idea of this type of cycling.

 

[jetajockey]

Ewps! Did you mean remove carbon? Yes removing carbon is wise. Negligible? Exactly the word I could have used. Even a small or tiny amount would offset the validity of the whole idea of this type of cycling.

Actually no it doesn't. It's pretty easy to prove it. We can see that plants during photosynthesis uptake nh4+. Besides that, by that logic you could transfer any other kind of similar sized tank ornament, decor, etc, and it *should* achieve the same result.

But it won't, because a few tank ornaments, a handful of gravel, or a couple of plants are not going to silently cycle a tank on their own.

I understand it that the nitrifiers will be present and concentrated in the area that has the most available nutrients for them, i.e. the filter media, where the highest amount of water flow is happening. But even if we don't agree on that, the other major point is surface area.

Biomedia, including sponge filters, filter floss, etc, have a huge amount of surface area compared to objects in the tank, like plants, decor etc. A gallon of bioballs has around 21.5 ft of surface area, and ceramic medias have even more. Swiss tropicals has a list of different filter materials and their surface area, including their Poret foam which is pretty popular now. SwissTropicals Poret ® Foam - SWISSTROPICALS

And no, I didn't mean remove filter carbon. I'm aware that filter carbon has the ability to adsorb some medications. If you leave your biofilter in the tank when using certain antibiotics (like erythromycin for example) you are going to be dealing with sick fish and a stalled cycle.