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shutterinfear

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
May 21, 2008
Messages
28
Location
Minnesota
My zoas, and my hammer, and my duncan coral won't come out. I did my water change like I always do. about 5 gallons, the only thing I have done is gone from a 14,000k bulb to a 20,000k. It's a 150 watt halide setup. My nitrates are very low. I don't get it. Help. :confused:

12 gallon nano. Did another 5 gallons change last night. No lost fish, hermit crabs all accounted for....
 
This is probably a stupid question but have you checked your SG, sometimes if it is to low or hight it will effect the tank. Also are you using a refractometer or a hydrometer sometimes a bubble on the swing arm will effect the reading.
 
I check using a hydrometer. It's right on. Keep thinking it's a light issue, considering the change. Gonna have to get some new carbon tonight, But I change it every two weeks. I have sump, and a refugium. I could see it, if somthing really swung, but like I said, nothing has changed.
 
hydrometers are very inaccurate. that said, the lighting change definitely could have effected them. how old was the bulb you replaced? if it was very old, it may not have been putting out much PAR, and then the new bulb shocked them. i've seen it many times.
 
If it indeed did shock them, what should I do? I have only been running the new light for about 4 hours a day. The bulb came with fixture, I have used it for six months. So, not sure about time frame for the old bulb.
 
so, you bought the fixture used? if so, that bulb was probably spent. not much you can do now. i usually suggest the screen method of light acclimation-when you replace your lamp(s), put a few pieces of window screen between the tank and the fixture, and every few days remove one layer, until they are gone. this will gradually increase the light in the tank safely.
 
mr_X said:
so, you bought the fixture used? if so, that bulb was probably spent. not much you can do now. i usually suggest the screen method of light acclimation-when you replace your lamp(s), put a few pieces of window screen between the tank and the fixture, and every few days remove one layer, until they are gone. this will gradually increase the light in the tank safely.

+1 to the screen method. If you can't find good window screen at the hardware store egg crate works just as well. What are your water parameters currently?
 
The only test I get readings are nitrates, there at 10. No nitrites, or ammonia. I don't tesk for calcium, ph is 8.1

The screen method, how many pieces do I start off with? Never done that before. How long do I leave the lights on for? I have six blue leds at night, should I leave them off?
 
Try 3-4 layers then take one off every couple days. Leave the lunars on as they don't have enough power to really penetrate through the screen
 
Also missed it before but but 5g water changes on a 12g regular water changes is a little excessive. Almost borderline your going to make your tank cycle again. Start testing for calcium, alk, magnesium, iodide, phosphate, pH, and nitrate. I recommend the red sea pro test kits. I have the reef foundations test kit which includes calc, mag and alk. And the Algae control test kit has phosphate and nitrate. And the individual iodine test kit. There so much better than the API test kits IMO.
 
Tank is 12 gallons, 6 in the sump, and 2 in the refugium. So, I figure it's about a 1/4 tank volume water change. I will try the screen thing and let you know how it goes. Thanks everyone.
 
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