uncycled tank

[dalfa96]

so i made an impulse buy and didnt know about the cycle so i bought 8 serpae tetra and 3 paleatus cory. i have a 10 gallon kit came with filter and heater i keep the temperature at 80f four of the serpae have died up until yesterday i found out i have to change the water when the ammonia gets over .25 the tank is a week old as of today. i feel bad having killed so many fish i don't want more to die. every time i change the water i add quick start and i also have the readistart nitrifying bacteria starter that i add everyday i also have the freshwater master test kit and check the water everyday. what can i do to keep the fish alive and ammonia down

 

[pezcaito]

When you set up a tank you have to put in the de-chlorinating water conditioner. The filter should have some charcoal in it to clean the water. Don't over feed -ever- the temperature is too high, set it to 78 at most. Change at least 10% of the water weekly and new water that you put in needs to have the water conditioner in it. it'll take some time for the water to cycle, if it looks cloudy, leave it alone, it'll fix itself in a day or two. Let the fish acclimate to the water temperature by putting the fish bag in your fish tank without openingi t for at least 15mins. Some fish will die from shock, most fish stores will take the fish back and give you a refund but they also ask for a water sample.

 

[Aiken Drum]

When you set up a tank you have to put in the de-chlorinating water conditioner. The filter should have some charcoal in it to clean the water. Don't over feed -ever- the temperature is too high, set it to 78 at most. Change at least 10% of the water weekly and new water that you put in needs to have the water conditioner in it. it'll take some time for the water to cycle, if it looks cloudy, leave it alone, it'll fix itself in a day or two. Let the fish acclimate to the water temperature by putting the fish bag in your fish tank without openingi t for at least 15mins. Some fish will die from shock, most fish stores will take the fish back and give you a refund but they also ask for a water sample.

A lot of this wrong.

- Charcoal removes organic compounds from water. This usually means removing tannins or medication. It doesnt "clean" the water. It doesnt really matter to your cycle whether you use charcoal or not. Only use charcoal if you need it for a specific purpose eg. to clear tannins or remove medication after the treatment. Once its no longer needed stop using it. Its expensive, needs replacing every couple of weeks and is pointless.

- Higher temperature promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria. The optimum temperature is around 83 to 87f. But if you have fish the optimum temperature is whatever suits your fish.

- While cycling with fish your water change schedule should be determined by your water conditions. 10% per week likely won't be anywhere near enough. 10% per week isnt likely to be enough once you are cycled, let alone while you have no cycle.

- Its unlikely that the reason your fish died due to lack of water conditioner, otherwise all your fish would have died.

 

[pezcaito]

It's worked for me for years. I always have charcoal in my filter and I've never had any ammonia nor nitrite or nitrate issues. Sometimes I don't even change the water weekly and I just top off and still running smoothly. I guess you need to find your happy medium.
In my experience if I mess with it too much, that's when the problems arise.

 

[Aiken Drum]

Your success with your water parameters has nothing to do with charcoal

 

[pezcaito]

How come most filter cartridge's come with charcoal?

 

[Aiken Drum]

Because people who dont know any better will buy it. The whole filter cartridge thing is a complete scam in my opinion, but i can see some people like the ease of them if they dont understand how to set up a filter.

Im not saying anything about carbon that isnt common knowledge in the hobby. It takes up organic compounds. That can be useful if you have tannins in the water or need to remove medication. It can reduce odours. But these requirements are temporary. It does nothing for ammonia, nitrite or nitrate as these arent organic compounds. At most it will provide surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonise the same as biomedia, but as carbon needs replacing every couple of weeks, thats of little benefit.

https://www.thesprucepets.com/activated-carbon-in-the-aquarium-1380929

 

[dalfa96]

so i check my water once in the morning then once in the afternoon and dont let it get past the .50 for ammonia but everytime i do a change i add quick start so far my 3 serpae and 3 cory have been doing fine i also have a regular filter cartridge in my filter as well as one with quartz balls in it should i keep doing what im doing or should i change something i also have two amazon swords and four anubius nana in my tank two of the anubius are turning orange as well as one of my sword.

 

[Aiken Drum]

Your target should be to keep ammonia + nitrite combined below 0.5ppm. If your ammonia is 0.25ppm and nitrite 0.25ppm do a small water change. If they happen to creep up higher say 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite (0.75ppm combined) do a larger water change. This keeps water parameters relatively safe but leaves some waste to fuel your cycle process.

Feed lightly while you are cycling. Enough that is eaten in 1 minute daily, or enough that is eaten in 2 minutes every other day.

Dont add any more fish until you are cycled for the fish you currently have. This is when you are consistently seeing 0ppm ammonia and nitrite on your tests, and your nitrate should be steadily rising. This could be several weeks.

Please also take note that your tank isnt big enough for the fish you have. You should be thinking about upgrading to a bigger tank in the near future or returning your fish to the store and getting fish more suited to your tank size.

The plant melt is normal for new plants. They have been cultivated immersed not submerged. As such they have always had readily available CO2 from the atmosphere which is no longer there. The plant needs to adapt to its new environment, and losing its leafs is part of its adaptation process. New growth should be adapted to living underwater.