What is going on?

[Potluck]

Rocks and wood are free. Also come with free exercise

Plants packages on are cheaper. Maybe not the greatest way to go but gets you a variety and gets you going.

I just got a big big fire leaf sword, a big huge sagitaria, 1 pretty decent sized anubias Nana, and something leafed something lol 4 for 15.00 and they are true aquatic

 

[flchamp89]

http://shop.plantedaquariumscentral.com/20-Gallon-Low-Light


Get ya started. I've bought here

So wood.....zero. Find a tree
Rock........zero. Find some

http://shop.plantedaquariumscentral.com/20-Gallon-Low-Light-Plant-Package_p_62.html

 

[Potluck]

http://shop.plantedaquariumscentral.com/20-Gallon-Low-Light


Get ya started. I've bought here

So wood.....zero. Find a tree
Rock........zero. Find some

http://shop.plantedaquariumscentral.com/20-Gallon-Low-Light-Plant-Package_p_62.html

I have to disagree with you on finding a tree, it's drift wood and some woods are not safe for an aquarium, but the rocks yes but the drift wood no as it needs cured, boiled, safe ect ect

 

[flchamp89]

Very few woods are not safe. You certainly can prep them how you want. But most states have hardwoods that are suitable. Never paid for a piece of wood. Never had an issue. Nothing wrong with educating yourself a little about trees and getting out there and finding a piece. I use oak, cedar, cypress, pecan, hickory, primarily. But have also used crepes and azaleas as well. Options are endless.

Nothing wrong with buying it either if that's what you want.

 

[TMaier]

Do use run the uv

Yes I do. So far I have not heard anything that I should turn it off.
Do I need some schooling?

 

[flchamp89]

Yes I do. So far I have not heard anything that I should turn it off.
Do I need some schooling?

I dont know much about it. Just curious.

 

[flchamp89]

Here was/is my current hardscape. Parsoni...yes cedar. And petrified wood.

 

[Anna94]

I tested my ammonia this morning after the lights came on and it was 0. Then I tested again an hour after feeding and it was .25 or .50. There wasn't even that much food and it was crushed into tiny little pieces.

 

[Toad]

Once most fish eat, the poop whatever other food they were digesting, and your ammonia goes up.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Potluck]

That's not her problem her probkem is she's massively overstocked with not enough BB to compensate for her bio load

 

[Toad]

I get that, I'm explaining to her why it's jumping so fast. I've been watching most of her threads, and know what the issues are, and have provided a link before about how the increase in stock is only going to make it worse.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Anna94]

That's not her problem her probkem is she's massively overstocked with not enough BB to compensate for her bio load

Right now I have 17 fish, but I'm rehoming 2 of them tonight making that 15 so how is that overstocked? Yes, I'll be adding 1 more lemon tetra and 3 or 4 more otos, but otos are so tiny I don't see how they make such a big bioload. I might not even need any otos at all if don't get anymore diatom growth as I reduced the photoperiod of my lights.

 

[Potluck]

Rainbows, loach, the other one that's aggressive when breeding , 6 cardinal tetras, etc etc

 

[Potluck]

If you add the fish you said your going to add in an earlier post you'll be at 181% stocked, I can do another one with the fish you have in there now if you'd like, what I don't think you understand is its not just how many fish is how big they are as well as to how much poop and waste they expel compared to the lack of beneficial bacteria your tank has.

 

[flchamp89]

This is still going lol.

 

[Potluck]

Not for me im going to go do something constructive lol

 

[Delapool]

Ohhhhh I misunderstood what you meant I thought you meant not to add more filtration my apologies, but yes you can get filters with uv sterilizers that do prevent and kill diseases/bad bacteria , I'm thinking about getting an aqua top 400 with a uv sterilizer in the canister

I'm still dubious on UV units in canister filters I must confess. The ones I have seen the UV prefers low flow rates to maximise contact time (and still might only be good for green algae) while the canister filter is geared towards high flow / turn-over.

I've thought UV units can help with tank clarity and maybe help with diseases but I've still had white spot / bacterial infections with uv units running as a seperate setup to filtration.

 

[Delapool]

Right now I have 17 fish, but I'm rehoming 2 of them tonight making that 15 so how is that overstocked? Yes, I'll be adding 1 more lemon tetra and 3 or 4 more otos, but otos are so tiny I don't see how they make such a big bioload. I might not even need any otos at all if don't get anymore diatom growth as I reduced the photoperiod of my lights.

High ammonia is either high in source water, produced higher than bacteria can handle and/or the bacteria are getting disturbed (eg filter cleaning is too aggressive or ph is below say 6.3 where certain bacteria will slow down).

In the old days I never had an ammonia test kit so I think well done for regularly testing.

Common solutions are to check ph level, check not replacing filter media each week say, add extra bio-media, check for any ways could be killing off bacteria, extra water changes.

On the source water is that matching the no ammonia reading? I did wonder as have seen tube colours do funny things in photos. And the ammonia you are getting in tank shows as a test colour higher than source water test colour?

 

[Lev]

Anna. Looking at your first threads it sounds like you want a teeming colourful tank full of bright neony colours and activity.

Have you thought about smaller even nano fish? They don't have to go in a 5 gallon nano they can be showstopping in large schools in a bigger tank.

I've got 12 clown panchax (kilifish) and whilst I wouldn't recommend them (1 week of why wont you eat WHYyyyy and now having to feed them live fruit flies eww ) small brightly colored fish allow you to have the numbers and variety you want without the same bioload.

Bigger fish poop more. Some small fish poop more than they should (im looking at you fat bob the molly). When you are overstocked your fish are swimming in their own excrement until you change water.

I think of it this way: imagine you are in a small 15m swimming pool. You need to wizz but can't get out, so you wizz in the pool. Its slightly ok though because its just you. Now imagine 100 people are in that pool with you and all just answered the call... That's what its like for fish in an overstocked tank except they breathe it!

Soooo anyway

My advice is go to LFS and negotiate the rehoming of ALL your current stock. Then research some tiny bright schooling beauties (even the much disparaged but I think lovely green neon) that I think you will get a great amount of pleasure from. Colours , big groups that are active. .. I think you'd find it a great experience.

Sometimes starting again isn't failing... Its a sign you are getting more adept at the hobby

 

[Lev]

Ps most decent LFS will accommodate trades / store credit for fish. Especially if yours are healthy and are being rehomed as prophylaxis . Everyone lives responsible fish mums and dads