Wigglers At Last!!!!!

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if im rite and i think i am the males will fight to pair off with the females. no they don't mate for life . just 2 weeks ago i had a pair i had to split up because he was not doing his part in fertilizing the eggs. so i put a blue male in there and shazam i had good eggs and now the male i pulled out has paired with a koi so all is happy. lol


Sorry Bob, I didn't see that you replied before me ;) No toe stepping implied :D
 
Bacterial infection from pre spawning fighting, most likely. Separate her and treat with meds or put a clear divider in the tank so she still sees her mate but he can't damage her any further and medicate. The good news is that even if she loses the eye, she can still spawn. It's just, why make her go through all that when you can save the eye? Also, Keep an active sponge filter in another tank as a backup as most antibiotics will supress the Benificial Bacteria as well. Once the treatment is done, replace the existing filter with the backup.

Hope this helps (y)

I'll move her to a hospital tank. What do you recommend for treatment?
 
I'll move her to a hospital tank. What do you recommend for treatment?

My preference for bacterial situations is Nitrofurazone and specifically Furan 2. This treats for both gram + and gram - bacteria. If you can't get Furan 2, I would then go with Jungle labs' Fungus Clear fizz tabs. This contains 2 forms of furizone based meds. I get this at my local Walmart. (This is what I used to medicate my Bettas after breeding.)

If you can't get either of these quickly, you can also use any penicillin based med like Ampicillin. Another choice is Erythromycin. All are good, last 2 are colorless. I've just had such good luck with the Furan that I highly recommend it. The key is not to wait. The sooner you medicate, the better the chances of saving the eye. ;)
 
OHHHHHHHHH!!! Somebody laid eggs....but i dont know who!! it's on the filter intake, but in a different spot. I think Blackie paired off with someone!!!!
 
And this is a good thing, right??? :ROFLMAO: :D (y)

LOL yes!! I feel like a kid a Christmas right now lol

I'm trying to get some pics and video. I never setup my other corner tank, kinda wish I did. But what I really want is a regular shaped tank. I think for breeding purposes I can get away with a 29? Can't really fit a 55 in here right now. I have a 20 but I need to get a hood for it. my spare 10 is up and running and empty but I need that for my discus......
 
And this is a good thing, right??? :ROFLMAO: :D (y)
a few things I did in the last few days was a couple of back to back water changes, bigger than normal, and changed my filter media. Then, lastnite after feeding them, I noticed breeding tubes. I didn't think I was seeing that and maybe I was seeing poop tubes lol and Pumba was looking pretty "full". This morning, she still looked full, but the others didnt. Blackie was aggressive. Now, both of them are super aggressive. They are still sliding up the pipe so I think she's still laying.
 
LOL yes!! I feel like a kid a Christmas right now lol

I'm trying to get some pics and video. I never setup my other corner tank, kinda wish I did. But what I really want is a regular shaped tank. I think for breeding purposes I can get away with a 29? Can't really fit a 55 in here right now. I have a 20 but I need to get a hood for it. my spare 10 is up and running and empty but I need that for my discus......

Great, Glad I understood the enthusiasm :D
I'm sure I will get dirty looks for this but Use the 29 for the Discus and the 10 gal for the Angels. ( A 10 gal for Discus??? Come on, you know better than that :banghead:) You can use the 20 or the 10 for breeding ( but not for fully raising the fry.) You don't need a hood for the 20 for the fry or the breeders. The odds of them jumping out are slim to none. if you are concerned, just get a piece of glass or plexiglass from Home Depot's window dept. Angels breed better and fry grow better in subdued light anyway. ;)
Also, you really need a bigger tank for Discus than a 29. But that's another story for another day. ;)

Welcome to the world of Angelfish breeders (y)
 
the 10 gallon was gonna be for one discus for qt purposes. I'm trying to watch him because he stays hidden all of the time and I dont know why. Of course I know better! I'm out of tanks right now so he can't go lol the discus (I have three right now) are living in a 46 gallon planted tank.

I still have some eggs left. some have turned white, which I expected. If I removed them to try to raise them myself, at which stage should I do this? should I remove them right now or wait? I just put in an airstone in the 10 gallon and will remove the entire pipe that they are on. I have a replacement to swap with.

I have a cat, a lid is REQUIRED.
 
i pull my eggs 1 hour after they are laid. make sure heats on and meth blue is in and sponge filter
 
+1 to Bob. You can pull the eggs almost immediately or any time before they hatch.

You need to set the eggs up in a way that water is moving in front of them. In "My Albums" section of my profile, there is an album labeled "Instruction charts" that has a drawing of what the egg hatching setup should look like (or at least how my setups all looked like. ;) )The eggs (not labeled in the drawing) should be on the side facing the bubbles.

As for the cat, get a piece of Plexi or block the tank so the cat can't jump on top of it. :D

Keep us posted.
 
Andy. At what age of the fry do you introduce other foods and what foods do you use?

At approx. 21 days old, I started to intergrate some crushed growth flake foods for fish fry ( not crushed adult fish food) as the middle meal. This way, the fish would have had a morning meal and if they didn;t eat the mid day meal, they would get the BBS from the last meal. Also, as they got a little bigger, I would add things like freeze dried Tubifex worms or freeze dried bloodworms. ( I used freeze dried because it was in cubes that the fish could take smaller bites of instead of them choking on the live foods, which I had happen a few times.) The key is to promote growth. Feeding fry adult food does not promote growth. Feeding growth foods promotes growth. ;) I don't know what foods are available in today's market but I doubt the brands are going to be as important as the makeup within the food you are feeding.

Hope this helps (y)
 
Thanks very much. I learned a valuable lesson today about over feeding. I lost about 40 of my youngest fry because I fed and left instead of watching his much they consume and withdrawing the excess brine shrimp. At least I assume that's why I lost them. To be honest I didn't check the water parameters I just removed the dead ones and did a water chenge
 
Thanks very much. I learned a valuable lesson today about over feeding. I lost about 40 of my youngest fry because I fed and left instead of watching his much they consume and withdrawing the excess brine shrimp. At least I assume that's why I lost them. To be honest I didn't check the water parameters I just removed the dead ones and did a water chenge


Not good, not good, not good AT ALL!!! :facepalm: Poor water quality kills more fish than anything else. What makes poor water quality with baby fish? OVERFEEDING! You need to get a routine where you feed less per feeding but feed more often. This is the easiest way to avoid overfeeding. If you see dead shrimp on the bottom of the tank, DON'T FEED so much the next times.

I used to tell my customers who were trying to breed fish but didn't want to feed properly, "If all the fry in the tank took a poo (I cleaned that up for our younger viewers:D ) at the same time, they still would not produce more ammonia than a dose of overfeeding. " You should keep that in mind as you move forward. ROUTINE water changes and less food more often. Oh and siphon the bottom of the tanks too :brows: (y)

Lesson learned (hopefully), move on (y)
 
Not good, not good, not good AT ALL!!! :facepalm: Poor water quality kills more fish than anything else. What makes poor water quality with baby fish? OVERFEEDING! You need to get a routine where you feed less per feeding but feed more often. This is the easiest way to avoid overfeeding. If you see dead shrimp on the bottom of the tank, DON'T FEED so much the next times.

I used to tell my customers who were trying to breed fish but didn't want to feed properly, "If all the fry in the tank took a poo (I cleaned that up for our younger viewers:D ) at the same time, they still would not produce more ammonia than a dose of overfeeding. " You should keep that in mind as you move forward. ROUTINE water changes and less food more often. Oh and siphon the bottom of the tanks too :brows: (y)

Lesson learned (hopefully), move on (y)

The problem stemmed from the other problem I was having was finally solved and I had an excess of brine shrimp. I was right that the batch of brine shrimp that had been sold to me was bad. I acquired some from a member of our aquarium society to compare and had basically 98% hatch rate which for the last number of weeks I've gotten used to around 50%. 1/2 teaspoon at 98% produces a lot more than 50%. I've been doing 20% water changes daily but at the end of the day after their last feeding. I shouldn't have just fed and left. My usual routine is to give little squirts at a time waiting for them to finish up between each spurt. The day I break routine is the day I lose fish. Today's proof of that :(
 
Well, Thumbs up for figuring it out. ;) Now you know. Time to get some smaller measuring spoons :D ( get the ones that go down to 1/8 teaspoon. I've seen them at walmart.) Start with the 1/8 teaspoon first then adjust ;)
 
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