wisteria leaves

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couple more and 1 of my anubias with what looks to be the same thing and a couple of holes (was like that from the store)
 

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bumping this back to the top. I'm thinking it may be potassium deficiency, based on what i've read so far. thats about as close as i can get
 
I stand by probably not K from what you describe. Im leaning towards phosphate. Did you look up pics of K deficiency?
 
I stand by probably not K from what you describe. Im leaning towards phosphate. Did you look up pics of K deficiency?

Yeah, i did in couple three places. After reading, i really took my bet guess becasue there was nothing that gave me my "exact" issues.

In looking at some of my other plants, i have some bigger than pinhole sized holes and dark patches on the leaves of the Anubis. I made the mistake of buying mondo grass; im just kinda letting it die off if that's what it is going to do...meh. My crypts are struggling but living. I'm using eco-complete and fertilizing with 2.5 ml of Seachem Flourish 2x week in a 29g tank.
 
You know what.. I just realized you haven't told us about your lighting. Type of bulbs, wattage, color temp, age, etc. The more you describe what's going on, the more I want to suggest a possible lighting issue rather than a nutrient issue. I just don't see how, after only a month, and with dosing flourish twice a week, that you're already seeing deficiencies. Most of the time, K and P deficiencies are only an issue on co2 injected, higher light tanks. Not always, but usually.
 
You know what.. I just realized you haven't told us about your lighting. Type of bulbs, wattage, color temp, age, etc. The more you describe what's going on, the more I want to suggest a possible lighting issue rather than a nutrient issue. I just don't see how, after only a month, and with dosing flourish twice a week, that you're already seeing deficiencies. Most of the time, K and P deficiencies are only an issue on co2 injected, higher light tanks. Not always, but usually.

lol...and here i was thinking i was telling you everything

I'm running ZooMed 22' T5 lamps, one is FloraSun that is spec'd at 24watts/5000k and the other is UltraSun 24watts/6500k. Although they can be indidually controlled, I run them both on a timer for 10hrs/day. Agewise, i just bought the lights/hood about 3 weeks ago. As for CO2, i'm stuck using the Nutrifin DIY for now until my Santa-wifey visits for Christmas and brings me a real C02 rig.

As for what else is in the tank, 3 Japanese algae eater shrimp, 2 red crystal shrimp, 1 oto, 7 cardinal tetras (moved in due to battling ich in other tank), 6 diamond tetras and 1 BN pleco and i'm battling an ich outbreak. Hmm, could increas water temp and aquarium salt have any effects?
 
Hmm, could increas water temp and aquarium salt have any effects?

Absolutely. I melted a couple of my plants when I brought them temp up to treat ich once, and I didn't even use salt.

Might just need to wait this one out. I the mean time, maybe up fertilizer just in case. And because you have a fairly high-tech system going, consider dry ferts. Gives you a little more control and helps identify deficiencies, IMO and IME.
 
Absolutely. I melted a couple of my plants when I brought them temp up to treat ich once, and I didn't even use salt.

Might just need to wait this one out. I the mean time, maybe up fertilizer just in case. And because you have a fairly high-tech system going, consider dry ferts. Gives you a little more control and helps identify deficiencies, IMO and IME.

I have seachem root tabs for , well, root plants. But what about the ones that get their nutrients from within the water column? Do root tabs work the same way?
 
Oh dear, here's your problem.


Your lights are driving an intense need for nutrients. What we're seeing is probably a combination of multiple deficiencies. If you have CO2 and T5HOs, you need to have good ferts available. I HIGHLY recommend you get some dry ferts. It will be about $25 shipped and will last you a year+. Your plants will go link gangbusters afterwords.

Root tabs are a supplementary fertilization. Water column should be primary. Your wisteria will go BANANAs.
 
Oh dear, here's your problem.


Your lights are driving an intense need for nutrients. What we're seeing is probably a combination of multiple deficiencies. If you have CO2 and T5HOs, you need to have good ferts available. I HIGHLY recommend you get some dry ferts. It will be about $25 shipped and will last you a year+. Your plants will go link gangbusters afterwords.

Root tabs are a supplementary fertilization. Water column should be primary. Your wisteria will go BANANAs.

okay, that sounds more than plausible. I know you mentioned it in some other post but i can't find it from searching your name but what are some "quality dry ferts" and where do i get them?

Until then, i will probably use one light in lieu of two thereby cutting my light in half since I they are on separate switches. the question then becomes which to use/not use. Flora Sun or Ultra Sun
 
I use Green Leaf Aquariums. You can just get their complete package or w/e its called for $20 plus shipping. Then you need to determine a dosing strategy and read up on it. Pps is popular, but I like EI myself.
 
I use basic stuff you find at pharmacies since we don't have any specialised ferts available appart from the Seachem range.

KNO3, KCl and Lenolax (for phosphates) works for macro-nutrients. Should not work out more than $5.
 
epiphysis said:
I use basic stuff you find at pharmacies since we don't have any specialised ferts available appart from the Seachem range.

KNO3, KCl and Lenolax (for phosphates) works for macro-nutrients. Should not work out more than $5.

What ferts are available at the typical pharm?
 
I use Green Leaf Aquariums. You can just get their complete package or w/e its called for $20 plus shipping. Then you need to determine a dosing strategy and read up on it. Pps is popular, but I like EI myself.

I'm going to assume that you mean this (plus it's the only thing i see for $20)
 
I use basic stuff you find at pharmacies since we don't have any specialised ferts available appart from the Seachem range.

KNO3, KCl and Lenolax (for phosphates) works for macro-nutrients. Should not work out more than $5.

I'm assuming you mean putting together my own 'cocktail'?
 
I'd agree. I was thinking you had a low light tank going off the plants you have.

Was my origianl plan but then I knew i was going to want to push the envelope some. So now I go too much light for the plants i have for now. eh, live and learn. Some lessons cost, right.:brows:
 
okay, that sounds more than plausible. I know you mentioned it in some other post but i can't find it from searching your name but what are some "quality dry ferts" and where do i get them?

Until then, i will probably use one light in lieu of two thereby cutting my light in half since I they are on separate switches. the question then becomes which to use/not use. Flora Sun or Ultra Sun

Should using less light until i get some high qulity dry ferts felp some, or at least slow it down a bit? or using both lights for less time? Or a combination of less light and less time>
 
Less light might help. You can maybe take out one bulb (some fixtures you can do that with), or raise the light.
 
Dry ferts is all about putting together your own cocktail. At first read it all sound complicated but once you start to get the picture its so easy. Its like making a cup of coffee. Just add and stir.

The names of the ingredients are usually sold under different names in different countries. Over here KNO3 is sold as salpeter, KCL as No-salt and NaPO4 you get as Lenolax (Fleet enema, might get a strange look when you buy it and an even more stranger look when you explain its for your fishtank).

Thats all I've used so far. Together with Flourish all going well. You can find many calculators to get amounts to make the cocktail of.

The one I use Aquatic Plant Central

Hope it helps.
 
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