DanS Future 90 gallon reef

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just ordered my Ro/Di unit from BRS, and a new heater :) all thats left now is my reactor, more rock and sand... oh and a light for my fuge. yayy for me :)
 
Bout time lol which one did you get? And we are having a major communication issue lmao. Ok.. the return pump runs to the pvc, the pvc then runs up to the top of the sump and a short piece towards the back, then you have the first visible elbow in that picture. From that elbow why did you run it down and then over instead of just over to the T.
 
You have to add a check valve on the return lines. This is pretty critical because it'll stop a back siphon when the power is out. If you don't have one the water will drain into the sump all the way down to where your lowest return is in the tank. That would be most of the top tank.
 
Mrc8858 said:
Bout time lol which one did you get? And we are having a major communication issue lmao. Ok.. the return pump runs to the pvc, the pvc then runs up to the top of the sump and a short piece towards the back, then you have the first visible elbow in that picture. From that elbow why did you run it down and then over instead of just over to the T.

I got the 4 stage value plus one with the TDS meter, pressure gauge and membrane flush kit. :)

And I ran it that way bc if I would have just ran it right to the T it wouldn't have had the right angle and wouldn't have sat in there properly.. how I have it now isn't 100% lol it was just a rough draft.. still have some modifications to do n whatnot
 
CorallineAlgae said:
You have to add a check valve on the return lines. This is pretty critical because it'll stop a back siphon when the power is out. If you don't have one the water will drain into the sump all the way down to where your lowest return is in the tank. That would be most of the top tank.

I thought u just said a ball valve? Lol ughhhh.. can u recommend a specific one? Link?
 
DanS180 said:
I thought u just said a ball valve? Lol ughhhh.. can u recommend a specific one? Link?

I mentioned the check valves in my posts on 11/10 and 11/11. BRS has a couple of different ones in the 3/4" size. I'd get any one for the high return and a really good one got the lower back wall return. That's the critical line that needs to be protected from back flow. I use the iPod app so it's hard to post links. :(
 
CorallineAlgae said:
I mentioned the check valves in my posts on 11/10 and 11/11. BRS has a couple of different ones in the 3/4" size. I'd get any one for the high return and a really good one got the lower back wall return. That's the critical line that needs to be protected from back flow. I use the iPod app so it's hard to post links. :(

Lol no problem, thanks and yeah I did see that u mentioned them before. I wasn't barking at u or anything, I just thought that "check" and "ball" were the same thing lol stupid me for assuming.. k well I'll check on BRS and see what I can find, thank you again!
 
Okay I found 2 different ones.. swing check valve for $17.99 and then there's one called a "wye" check valve for $44.99! Lol I don't think I wanna put out 45 for a check valve. Esp after spending close to $500 on equip the past week or so lol
 
Then it's a simple choice. Just get two of the $18 ones. You may even be able to get by with one. Call BRS and ask them what they think. It may be better to get one good one placed a bit lower in the return line than to have 2 normal ones placed at each return. Either way, they deal with these questions all the time and they know their stuff. See what they say and let us know what you decide. I'm sure whatever you do will work out. :)
 
CorallineAlgae said:
Then it's a simple choice. Just get two of the $18 ones. You may even be able to get by with one. Call BRS and ask them what they think. It may be better to get one good one placed a bit lower in the return line than to have 2 normal ones placed at each return. Either way, they deal with these questions all the time and they know their stuff. See what they say and let us know what you decide. I'm sure whatever you do will work out. :)

Let's hope so, I def don't want a flood in my apartment especially with being on the top floor! Lol I'm probably just gonna get 2 of the $18 ones and call it a day.. where exactly in the lines should they go?
 
Skimmer section is leak free :) however my bubble trap is giving me crap.. does it make a big difference if the bubble trap has little leaks? As long as my fuge is completely sealed, I shouldn't have any problems right?
 

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If its just a slow leak then it shouldnt be an issue unless you can see bubbles traveling thru the gaps.
 
Mrc8858 said:
If its just a slow leak then it shouldnt be an issue unless you can see bubbles traveling thru the gaps.

Okay bc some of these leaks I might not be able to fix depending on how high up they are.. can't get my hands down between the baffles lol
 
so ive been getting mixed reviews of having check valves in a system, some people say they're a must, other people say "if u need a check valve, then the system isnt designed right".... lol i really cant afford to take a chance of a flood, i mean i have renters insurance but still lol no one wants to go thru that... people say check valves fail alot. is that true?

where would i put the valves in my system?
 
They both have points. The thing is, your system needs it. Nobody drills three extra holes low in their tank for returns without using check valves. If the power goes out or you turn off your pump gravity WILL push the water down whatever pipe is connected to any one of those holes... unless something stops it.

I'd put one check valve right under the "T" that splits your two return lines and one above the "T" that goes to the low return. That way, if the first check ever fails the second one will be it's backup.

I've plumed many many many tanks. Almost none used checks. The ones that did use them truly needed them to protect the home or business. In your tank it's only optional to have the second check under the T for backup. They actually can fail. I'd either use both or simply not use the extra holes in the back of the tank. Those are what's causing all the risk.
 
They both have points. The thing is, your system needs it. Nobody drills three extra holes low in their tank for returns without using check valves. If the power goes out or you turn off your pump gravity WILL push the water down whatever pipe is connected to any one of those holes... unless something stops it.

I'd put one check valve right under the "T" that splits your two return lines and one above the "T" that goes to the low return. That way, if the first check ever fails the second one will be it's backup.

I've plumed many many many tanks. Almost none used checks. The ones that did use them truly needed them to protect the home or business. In your tank it's only optional to have the second check under the T for backup. They can fail. I'd use both.

okay you have a point lol im confused as to where u want me to put these valves tho? the one above the "T" i get, but one below? the "T" runs horizontally
 
okay you have a point lol im confused as to where u want me to put these valves tho? the one above the "T" i get, but one below? the "T" runs horizontally

You can either put it vertically 'between' the bottom of the "T" and the elbow or below the elbow that turns the pipe back down to run it to your pump.
 
i cant seem to grasp your concept lol im sorry, which numbers???? hahaha
 

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