No PWC for a while, biggest mistake I've made?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
I'm not sure about spring water either. I would get some of each and test it before making an investment of too much into it so you know what the parameters of of those particular brands.


That's what I was thinking. What I'm doing so far tonight is setting a gallon of tap water with Stress coat in it out over night. And also setting out some untreated water out over night. See if that mysteriously changes anything.
 
That's a great start in trying to isolate the problem and /or how to fix it. If possible, I would try another with heated/aerated and combinations of all of those possibilities in hopes of getting to the bottom of this.
 
Nitrates won't change by letting water sit overnight. You can use spring water but test it for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and if possible phosphates before using.

You can use the liquid carbon for other plants. Roots on frogbit don't grow overly long. Water lettuce roots grow longer but in a tank won't grow too long. The floating roots are what absorbs nutrients from the water.

I have this RO unit, the Pro 100 which makes a gallon of water every 15 minutes.... portable countertop reverse osmosis drinking water system - remove fluoride, chemicals, pharmaceuticals, prescription drugs and more. Just so you know you get 3 gallons of waste water for every 1 gallon of RO made.
 
Ok so I let untreated tap sit out last night since 9pm, treated tap sit out since 10pm. And I just tested my tank. Here are my results:

Untreated:
pH 6.8
Ammo .5
Nitrite 0
NO3 20ppm
KH 1
GH 2

Treated:
pH 6.0
Ammo 0
NO2 0
NO3 about 2.5. It wasn't yellow and it wasn't quite orange
KH 1
GH 2

Tank:
pH 6.0
Ammo 0
NO2 0
NO3. 80-160. Hard to distinguish the difference.
KH 1
GH 9


I tested everything twice. Double checked everything. Results were the same.

Now currently I have Seachem's Alkaline Buffer which I'm going to add to my tank here shortly. I also have Microbe-Lift Nite Out II (pond strength) and Microbe-Lift Special Blend. I also have Seachem's Neutral Regulator but don't think I want to use that. Any other suggestions or comments let me know. Thanks again for everyone's help with this !!!!
 
IME, because of the type of fish I keep, WC's are the key to a happy and healthy environment. My QT gets 80% twice daily, my 40 gets 50% daily and 90% weekly and my girl does her 10 g every other day of at least 50% but closer to 70% when I'm lurking about. Fortunately, my parameters are always zero, (from the tap and in the tank) I'm on municipal water and do not need to age it.


That is excessive.
 
I don't have a "community tank with all the cute little guys". I have 5-6" fish that require excellent husbandry and average about $150 each.

That's proves that water changes are essential for the health of fish. It wasn't till I got into discus that I realized this. Now I use this practice on all my tanks.
 
That is great. I have 5 tanks, which also have large fish. Have had them for years now and no fish have died. No need to do that many water changes at that %.

IMO that is a waste of water. Your water bills must be through the rough.
 
That is great. I have 5 tanks, which also have large fish. Have had them for years now and no fish have died. No need to do that many water changes at that %.

IMO that is a waste of water. Your water bills must be through the rough.

If he wants to waste water then he can. Thats his choice. Certainly doing no harm to the fish as those discus look great
 
That's proves that water changes are essential for the health of fish. It wasn't till I got into discus that I realized this. Now I use this practice on all my tanks.


+ 100. Until others do the research on Discus, they'll never know or understand the full potential of their fish.
 
That is great. I have 5 tanks, which also have large fish. Have had them for years now and no fish have died. No need to do that many water changes at that %.

IMO that is a waste of water. Your water bills must be through the rough.


I'm sorry. I must've read your profile wrong.
 
Phosphates can build up from lack of WC's although 100ppm is out the roof. Did they do a liquid phosphate test or test strip. You need to get a few larger WC's done and in this instant I would use some type of phosphate remover in your canister for 2 or 3 weeks. You only want to lower phosphates to 1-5ppm as they are a macro nutrient for plants. It's going to take some time getting your water parameters straightened out.
 
Phosphates can build up from lack of WC's although 100ppm is out the roof. Did they do a liquid phosphate test or test strip. You need to get a few larger WC's done and in this instant I would use some type of phosphate remover in your canister for 2 or 3 weeks. You only want to lower phosphates to 1-5ppm as they are a macro nutrient for plants. It's going to take some time getting your water parameters straightened out.


I got two bags of phos-zorb and put it in my canister last night. Also put a bag of nitra-zorb in there too.

My local Weis sells RO water by the gallon. Should I use that and add Kent's RO right? Any suggestion on heating the water up before I put it back in the tank?
 
By the way rivercats, I also ordered some MTS, frogbit, and water lettuce. When I was out at That Fish Place last night I also picked up some root tabs and some API CO2 Booster.
 
Phosphates can build up from lack of WC's although 100ppm is out the roof. Did they do a liquid phosphate test or test strip. You need to get a few larger WC's done and in this instant I would use some type of phosphate remover in your canister for 2 or 3 weeks. You only want to lower phosphates to 1-5ppm as they are a macro nutrient for plants. It's going to take some time getting your water parameters straightened out.


Oh and they did the liquid test.
 
Back
Top Bottom