Ziggy953's 150 Build errrr....120 Build

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so uh... where are those new zoo pictures you promised me. YOU LIE AGAIN! i am very disappointed you dont put my needs before all others.
 
I'll get pics of the new Zoas posted when they open up and look nice. Right now they are still adjusting to my system and aren't happy yet.
 
Ok so here we go.

Rivet me this Rivet me that...

I've been in the process of upgrading my MHs from dual 175s to dual 250s. I've been back and forth on how I wanted to mount the lighting. As my canopy is now it has to be completely removed from the tank for me to do any kind of work. That is a pain so I've come up with a way of working in the tank and not having to remove my lights to do it. This of course is not a new idea.

I've built a lighting rack that will be suspended from the ceiling via 4 points. The rack was constructed of 1" square aluminum tube and put together with a rivet gun. The overall length of the rack is 47" and the width is 14.5". I have total of 22" of surface area and with the T5s attached the lights will cover just over 20". (front to back of tank)

Here are a few images to help you see what I'm talking about

Beginnings:

This is the basic "box" that I came up with for the rack. This is a very simple and light design.
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As it starts taking shape:

Here you can see the general location the spider reflectors will go in. In this picture the rack is upside-down.
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One reflector attached to the rack. 3 Rivets on each side hold it nicely to the aluminum tube.
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Here we are with both reflectors attached. The legs you see on each end of the rack will hold the T5s. Since the T5's have individual reflectors that can be aimed this was a great solution to keep them up and out of the way.
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Here is a shot of the rack on it's side showing the inside of the reflectors. The cross pieces on either end will hold the VHO endcaps. The bulbs themselves will run down the lengeth of the rack and not effect the MH reflector.
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I have a few things to pick up as yet before I can get the rack mounted. I am going to suspend the rack with a light chain. When I need to work in the tank all I will have to do is raise the rack up and hook the chain and I will have the full benefits of my lighting.

My bulbs have still not come in so my tank may go a couple of days with out MHs. I have to mount the VHOs and the T5s and the cooling fans and the rack will be finished. All that is left after that is running the wiring for the new 250 ballasts and we should be good to go.

For the surround I'm going to build a light weight removable box. That may have to wait til next week though.
 
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I told ya!... I think I was right on the money with my first guess... :)
But that is a Sweet Design Ziggy. That's going to work out really great for you... I take it that's Aluminum your using to construct your rack?
 
Well I was getting decent growth with the dual 175s but things weren't as intense as they were before the upgrade to the 120. The dual 175s worked great on the 72 but they just don't get enough light deep enough in this tank. I've always planned on upgrading to 250s and when a local reefer offered his IceCap ballasts up I jumped on them.
 
Sweet, I think the Ice Cap is one of the best e ballasts available.
It doesn't seem like there are many more people like you and I running 10k bulbs with actinic supplement anymore. The 14k w/actinic and 20k with no actinic seems to be really taking off.
I still have many many months on my 10k bulbs, but I am thinking about jumping on the bandwagon when it is time to replace them, because the bluer light does make the coral colors "pop" more.
 
I have run 10,000K, 14,000K and 20,000K bulbs on my tank. I would much rather have the 10,000K bulbs with the higher par rating and have actinic supplement. I have 220w VHO and 108W T5 for actinics so I have all the blue color I need and I get the benefit of great growth from the 10,000K bulbs.
 
That was the thinking I had too. I have 2x 250 watt 10k halides with 280-watts super actinic VHO. You may have a little more blue than me because of the T5 too. I will be curious to know if you lose a little bit of the blue when you go from the 175 halides to the 250. Keep me posted.
 
Progress on the lighting upgrade.

I have the T5 endcaps attached and it is now hanging over the tank. I still have to rewire the T5s and mount the VHO endcaps.
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I have the VHOs wired and running and since my 250w bulbs didn't come in today like they were supposed to I wired up the 175s for now. I don't want my reef without light for too long.

I still have to run the wire for the T5s but that shouldn't take much time. I have the ballast mounted in the fish closet next to the VHO ballast its just a matter of running some wire.

When the MH bulbs come in I'll get those ballasts mounted and run the wire for them.

All in all I'm pleased with how things have turned out. I'll get some updated pics posted tomorrow.
 
I got the T5s wired up and the wire zip tied down on the rack. As soon as the 250w bulbs get here I'll get those ballast wired up and ready. Here are some shots with the T5s on and running. I had to turn the MHs off to get a decent pic.

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All in all I am happy with how this has worked out. Now I have to get to building the surround that will cover the lights. I'm going to make it very light and easy to remove. Basically it will be a shell that just sits on the frame of the tank. That project will have to wait though.
 
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