Ram chichlids are flicking and darting about

[coxyhammer]

Can someone help?

I bought a pair of rams last week.

I have a mature 3ft aquarium which has plenty of bogwood, plastic plants for hiding places, general lighting, an external fluval filter which has 3 sections to it,the bottom compartment contains the white plastic chips that were supplied from new to act as the pre filter and the rest is foam, the water is returned via a gentle spray bar, airstone, fine gravel, temp is 28 degrees, the amonia, nitrite and nitrate levels are fine. I'm not sure of the PH and hardness is but the shopkeeper who is 5 miles away from my home says they have not altered the water in the shop tanks so my PH at home should match.

The rams are the only fish in the tank apart from a pleco. I kept coldwater fish in the tank before moving them into a pond and had no problems before a heater was introduced 48 hours before the Rams were introduced.

The rams settled in well for the first few days and were even looking like they were about to spawn.

In the last day or so, the male fish especially has began to flick against the bogwood and plants, darts about and sometimes his fins appear to flicker very quickly. I've also noticed one of his eyes seems to be cloudy.

I've looked up possible reasons for this and have looked at the fish closely, they have no spots anywhere. I did a 30% water change today and introduced the new water over an 8 hour period so the water temp did not flunctutate too much, the water was treated the night before with the bog standard chlorine removal agent (tetra watersafe) and also safe start for friendly bacteria.

I am not sure what to do next? I've seen some people suggest adding salt, if so what type and how much? Or perhaps administer a dose of medication, if so which one shall I use?

Thanks !!!

 

[neilanh]

Until we're sure what's going on I don't suggest randomly dosing any medications. I also don't believe adding salt will help you here.

They're still kinda new in the tank, keep observing them for a few more days or a week and see if they settle down.

 

[HN1]

When in doubt, do a 50% PWC. I agree with not medicating without a solid diagnosis.

 

[BOUGIEPROJECTS]

I just had the same problem. Sounds like you have ICK.
I know you cant see it yet - its probally in the gills of your fish.

Crank up the heat to 30-32 celcius - that will kill the ick - do it
for 10 days so the Ick Cycle can finish.

I added AQUARIUM SALT as well. Many say dont - many say do.
My Ram Cichlids Love It - And it Helps

PS - Dont stop the Heat for the FULL 10 Days - or else the Ick
problem will just keep coming back. Make sure you have plenty
of air being pumped into the tank - as more heat equals less air.

My babies are doing GREAT now

 

[HN1]

Heat (and 32C is too high, 30 is high enough) + salt = medicating.

Clean water and time are often overlooked as an initial "treatment". Fish flashing is indicative of external parasites. But with cloudy eye too, I suspect water quality needs to be focused on first.


BTW... Welcome to AA Coxy!

 

[BOUGIEPROJECTS]

30 makes ICK stop reproducing - 32 kills it.

AQUARIUM Salt - while some think as medicating - is a natural way to
assist in killing or preventing parasites in your tank.

Sometimes - waiting - allows the problems to develop far beyond repair.

As for the cloudy eye - Read this : Fish Eye Disorders

 

[CA_BroncoFan]

Heat (and 32C is too high, 30 is high enough) + salt = medicating.

Clean water and time are often overlooked as an initial "treatment". Fish flashing is indicative of external parasites. But with cloudy eye too, I suspect water quality needs to be focused on first.


BTW... Welcome to AA Coxy!

Completely agree here. Ive got four rams (2xbolivian 2xgbr) and they did the same thing at some point. Just keep up on the water changes.

 

[HN1]

30 makes ICK stop reproducing - 32 kills it.

AQUARIUM Salt - while some think as medicating - is a natural way to
assist in killing or preventing parasites in your tank.

Sometimes - waiting - allows the problems to develop far beyond repair.

As for the cloudy eye - Read this : Fish Eye Disorders

Salt in a FW habitat is "natural"? How so?

I'm fairly well versed with dealing with ick and other diseases. We receive and sell a lot of fish constantly. Nothing goes out diseased for a reason. Salt can have benefits, but if you are using "aquarium salt" you're wasting money and spreading bad advice to boot. I'm not real familiar with the centigrade system, but over 86F is unnecessary and will stress the fish more than needed.

Thanks for the link. Very interesting. You can call me a cynic though, I've never heard of National Fish Pharm and they are obviously out to sell stuff. It speaks volumes that every single apparent problem calls for medication in their opinion.

I am a KISS sort of guy.

 

[BOUGIEPROJECTS]

Works 4 Me

Salt is natural - as in - not medicated or chemical

I understand they want to sell stuff - but at the same time - one must read between the lines. There is a problem - and a name that goes with it. If someone wants to medicate - thats an option. At the same time, if one has a name for a potential problem - he/she can search for other solutions.

A kiss and a hug doesnt always make everything go away.
If Im sick - I take medicine.

To each their own

 

[BOUGIEPROJECTS]

You might also want to read this. Before I started actually raising temperatures to above normal high - and adding salt - I studied these theories from numerous cichlid websites etc ... and breeders.

I also speak from personal experience. By the way - Cichlids prefer water to be in the 30 range - so 32 will not do anything to stress the fish at all - as a matter a fact - mine started mating BigTime

My Ick problem also stopped bugging my fish - the same day. Just remember to continue doing this for the full cycle of the Ick - 10 days.

Hers a link with Facts : Understanding and Treating Ich or White Spot

 

[severum mama]

But, no one has thus far been able to identify the problem as ich. If it does turn out to be ich, no need to go so high with the temp. Salt in and of itself will kill the parasite in its free swimming stage, so simply using heat to speed up the life cycle of the parasite will work just fine. If it turns out to be something else, this treatment isn't going to do much to help.

 

[coxyhammer]

Thanks to you all for taking the time to air your thoughts.

Having taken stock of your replies, I resisted the urge to treat with medication. I increased the temp to 32 degress 24 hours ago and also fed them with some frozen bloodworm. I don't want to tempt fate but they already seem better!? They are still flicking against the bogwood but nowhere near as much as they were.

Thank again

Fingers crossed !!!!!