Trying to Plant 3/4 - 1 " super tiny trimmings lol, I'm like you beep beeeep beeeeeeeeeep [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]Lol - yeah, must admit messy plants don’t do it for me anymore. I like them, don’t like the work![]()
Trying to Plant 3/4 - 1 " super tiny trimmings lol, I'm like you beep beeeep beeeeeeeeeep [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]Lol - yeah, must admit messy plants don’t do it for me anymore. I like them, don’t like the work![]()
I have no idea what I need to buy, my tank isn't high tech I'm just trying a big fuse of ferts to see if it clears up the hair algae, nilcog sells the 5 bags of dry for $20.00 but I have not a clue what I need and what I dont needTo save costs on water column fertilizers, you should consider dry ferts such as the PPS-Pro kit sold by Green Leaf Aquariums. I ran a high tech 20g for 4+ years and still have most of the ferts from the kit I purchased in DEC 2013.
I have no idea what I need to buy, my tank isn't high tech I'm just trying a big fuse of ferts to see if it clears up the hair algae, nilcog sells the 5 bags of dry for $20.00 but I have not a clue what I need and what I dont need
I just posted on there lol, cause this is confusing as sheet [emoji23] I'm a like flustered lolKNO3 for NO3
KH2PO4 for PO4
K2SO4 for additional K (if needed)
Equilibrium for Ca, Mg and K
Or CaSO4 and MgSO4 if you want more control.
Contact Burr on TPT and buy his micro mix. Or you can go with CSM+B and add additional Iron DTPA 11%
What is causing my Wisteria not to grow, is it too intense of lighting? Making it stay low?, I'm literally about to take a sledge hammer to it (joking) but I'm Overwhelmed with all the different things I have to balance /increase, decrease, to get optimal Plant growth which I do not have, my Wisteria grows like maybe a half inch every 2 weeks
Its planted in the substrate, it's all new submerged growth except the bottom stems where I trimmed the tops after reaching the top 7-8", you described everything great, I just am confused when it comes to calculating the measurements of how much of this this this that and that to add to get this value of npk (if that makes sense)Yea i saw your post there, I'll let other chime in on it![]()
Welcome to growing plants, you can keep 95% of your species happy, but are you going to change things only to make that last 5% happy, and risk losing the healthy 95% ?
How do you have the wisteria planted? Any pictures of it?
Remember, it will take 4 weeks before you really start seeing a trend. So changing 1 thing could take a month before it shows a response.
But do I want to do pps pro for low tech no co2, do the packages say how many grams to add, or do I have to do that via rotala butterfly?Both GLA and Nilocg offer similar PPS-Pro kits. You will also need a scale capable of measuring to the gram level. And some DI water. Basically you are measuring out the dry salts as directed to the dosing containers, adding ~500 mL of DI water, mixing vigorously, and allowing them to sit over night. Then each day you dose at the rate of 1 mL per 10 gallons of tank water. Batches would last about 8 months for my 20g tank. Each week you will want to change 40-50% of the tank water to remove the excess fertilizers and other wastes.
One thing I did different was get a third dosing container for mixing the KNO3 (nitrates) separately. My nitrates were abundant on their own and I wanted to be able to control how much was being added (by skipping some days or adding less).
Kits:
Nilocg PPS-Pro Dry Ferts + 2 500 mL Dosing bottles http://nilocg.com/pps-pro-fertilizer-package/
GLA PPS-Pro Dry Ferts + 2 500 mL Dosing bottles http://greenleafaquariums.com/products/pps-pro-aquarium-fertilizer-package-bags.html
Might explain why my pearl weed creeps and doesn't stretch, and other plants stay low, I'm over it this hobby isn't supposed to be stressful.Initially I measure the nitrates and phosphates just to see how the dosing is going. I’ve also triple doses the phosphate to bring up the level (really reduced the incidents of green spot algae).
Not sure where to tell you about the wisteria. Generally, increasing light increases growth to a point. At higher lights, some plants will stay short (e.g. carpet plants).
Might explain why my pearl weed creeps and doesn't stretch, and other plants stay low, I'm over it this hobby isn't supposed to be stressful.
So literally every plant in my tank as they all grow slow? All the Wisteria are tops off of the immersed grown, maybe it's taking a while to rebound from being trimmed ?Don't make it stressful
Get rid of the plants that aren't doing good, replace them with different species. Generally, stunted or poor growing plants will take a long time to recover.
But do I want to do pps pro for low tech no co2, do the packages say how many grams to add, or do I have to do that via rotala butterfly?
Thrive is actually really good ferts, but yes I'll go broke trying to dose at those levels, literally 15 ml a week if I try for the npk that was suggested, I am going to go dry ferts but I just simply don't know what packages I need because I'm using equilibrium, or are the packages only npk? Literally would learn this instantly if I was shown in person, reading isn't my strong suit when it comes to learning things, either that or im making it more complicated than it is, do you think I could be running my light to high which could be exhausting the atmospheric co2 as my tank is ultra low tech with no co2 causing the algae and stunting the plants from stretching?Both kits include directions and they can be found via Google. I’m recommending dry ferts so you won’t break the bank using liquid ferts (you are paying for water). I’ve used it a high tech setup; nutrient uptake will be reduced with less light and no CO2. You will have a surplus of fertilizers. That is why water changes and testing are important. This is basically ensuring that fertilizers are not the “weak link” when it comes to plant growth. You can always dose less.
Here's what I found on nilcog, I'm assuming the left is pps-pro as the right says dry dosing, says fit high light w/co2 dose 3x per week, with low med light wo/co2 dose 1-2x a week and nilcog said to get 11% chelated and dose on micro day, I know you don't dose macro and micros on the same day, I'm making this way more complicated than it is im sure of it.Both kits include directions and they can be found via Google. I’m recommending dry ferts so you won’t break the bank using liquid ferts (you are paying for water). I’ve used it a high tech setup; nutrient uptake will be reduced with less light and no CO2. You will have a surplus of fertilizers. That is why water changes and testing are important. This is basically ensuring that fertilizers are not the “weak link” when it comes to plant growth. You can always dose less.