Ammonia suddenly very high - HELP!

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StellaStars

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
110
Location
Portland, Oregon
My tank has been up and running for a couple months now. It's a 5g with a cascade 300 internal filter. Heavily planted. Driftwood and plants from established tanks.

I cycled fish in, an also used Stability bacteria in a bottle. The original cycle went very smoothly.

When the water tested well, both at home and at the LFS, I added 4 green rasboras. (Maybe .75" each)

I later found an accidental bn pleco hitchiker came with some of the driftwood. He's a juvenile still at only about an inch long. I'll be getting another, bigger, tank soon.

After several weeks of good water quality (and roughly 25% weekly water changes) I added some shrimp. I lost one, but the others were doing well.

Three weeks ago I swapped out the charcoal cartridge in my filter with bio media, which I thought would be better in the long run. I added some more Stability just in case the loss of some of the BB would be a problem.

Everyone seemed happy and healthy in the days that followed, so I didn't worry about it.

Two days ago, I saw a dead shrimp, so I tested the water.

Ammonia was at nearly .5 and Nitrate was around 40 so I did a 50% water change right away (before even testing Nitrite)

I added more Stability with the water change. (Also use prime for each water change.)

Today, I tested the water again and it's at aroun 4.0 Ammonia!!!

Did another 50% water change, added more Stability, and sent my sweetie to the LFS for some AmGuard.

What's going on?!? Did swapping out the charcoal start a new cycle?

I know I'm overstocked, but shouldn't be by that much (while the pleco is so tiny), and it wasn't a problem for the first two months.

Aside from big water changes what can I do in the short term?

Strangely, none of the fish looked stressed. I'd expect them to be dead at those levels. But their color is good, they're eating well, and their behavior is totally normal. No red gills, no gasping, nothing.

If I hadn't tested because of the dead shrimp, I never would have suspected anything wrong. And the remaining shrimp also have good color and are eating, etc.
 
Something tells me that something is off with the test. I can't see how any shrimp would survive 4.0 ammonia.

Have you tested the tap? Parameters can change throughout the year especially if you use well water.


Caleb
 
Something tells me that something is off with the test. I can't see how any shrimp would survive 4.0 ammonia.

Have you tested the tap? Parameters can change throughout the year especially if you use well water.


Caleb

It's not well water, just the city supply. Portland usually has good water, but that's a great idea. I'll test it. Hopefully the water changes aren't making it worse.

And yeah, I wondered if the test could be wrong somehow.
 
Most fish are clinging to life at the top of the tank with 4.0ppm. Try retesting the tank.


Caleb
 
I would stop adding the stability IMO!
If your source water is good and the tank has been good.....
You went from .5 to 4 by changing water and adding stability????????
Hum.
Your test may be flawed but if your tank was cycled there is no need to keep adding "that stuff" with water changes.
Water changes only remove nutrients not BB.
I would change 50% again X2 without stability and then test after an hour or so.
 
Just tested the tap water. It's somewhere between .25 and .5

My partner just got back from the LFS with API Ammo-Chips, so I'll put a baggie of that in the filter now.
 
I would stop adding the stability IMO!
If your source water is good and the tank has been good.....
You went from .5 to 4 by changing water and adding stability????????
Hum.
Your test may be flawed but if your tank was cycled there is no need to keep adding "that stuff" with water changes.
Water changes only remove nutrients not BB.
I would change 50% again X2 without stability and then test after an hour or so.


+1

Your source has some. This can be reduced by mixing with RO/DI water.

I think the stability has something to do with it.


Caleb
 
I'll do more water changes and let you know how it goes.

I don't add the stability with every water change.

The bottle says to add a few drops once a month, so that's what I did.
 
The % of water changed should be the % the nutrient(ammonia,nitrIte,and nitrate) should drop.
So a 50% change should leave a tank with 4ppm with 2ppm.
Do it again and you should have 1ppm.
Then you do it again (tomorrow) and you should be .5ppm if not 0 if the filter is still functioning at all.
You can use the ammo chips but I see no need on a 5g tank.
The water changes (even with the traces in your tap) are still the best thing going.
A cycled filter should easily convert anything under 1 ppm in 24 hrs.
If you are using prime then the ammonia has already been converted to"safe non toxic form"(from seachem link) ,but will still register on your test.
I could find nothing on stability and causing ammonia so who knows?
This when I try to remember to say"IMO" when I attempt to help out with issues.
 
Something tells me that something is off with the test. I can't see how any shrimp would survive 4.0 ammonia.

Have you tested the tap? Parameters can change throughout the year especially if you use well water.


Caleb

Neocardinia shrimp (RCS) can survive some horrifying water quality if they are well established in the tank.

Most fish are clinging to life at the top of the tank with 4.0ppm. Try retesting the tank.

This depends entirely on the pH of the water. The lower the pH the less toxic the ammonia is.

The % of water changed should be the % the nutrient(ammonia,nitrIte,and nitrate) should drop.
So a 50% change should leave a tank with 4ppm with 2ppm.
Do it again and you should have 1ppm.
Then you do it again (tomorrow) and you should be .5ppm if not 0 if the filter is still functioning at all.
You can use the ammo chips but I see no need on a 5g tank.
The water changes (even with the traces in your tap) are still the best thing going.
A cycled filter should easily convert anything under 1 ppm in 24 hrs.
If you are using prime then the ammonia has already been converted to"safe non toxic form"(from seachem link) ,but will still register on your test.
I could find nothing on stability and causing ammonia so who knows?
This when I try to remember to say"IMO" when I attempt to help out with issues.

She has 0.5ppm ammonia in the tap water so this is problematic.

To the OP - What is your pH running?
 
Ammonia in tap water is not good. Remember that Prime can remove ammonia, but water tests may still show ammonium, which is not as bad as ammonia. If your fish are behaving normally maybe it is ammonium that is causing the high reading. I am no expert on the water chemistry. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.
 
To the OP - What is your pH running?

Just tested the pH, it's at about 6.8, as usual. Is that low enough to make ammonia less toxic?

I also tested ammonia again and now it's at 0, which is good, but perplexing.

I put in the API ammo chips, but didn't expect them to work that fast.

I'll be keeping a very close eye on parameters in the days to come.

I really appreciate everyone's advice.
 
Just tested the pH, it's at about 6.8, as usual. Is that low enough to make ammonia less toxic?

I also tested ammonia again and now it's at 0, which is good, but perplexing.

I put in the API ammo chips, but didn't expect them to work that fast.

I'll be keeping a very close eye on parameters in the days to come.

I really appreciate everyone's advice.

Then your pH is the sole reason you haven't experienced any fish deaths.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/your-guide-to-ammonia-toxicity-159994.html

The chart doesn't go that low, but you get the idea based on how it trends. Just be sure not to let your pH get any lower as it inhibits the consumption of ammonia.
 
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