cotton formed in my betta's eye
- Thread starter elfeves
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Please take a read through the "unhealthy fish" sticky and provide as much information as you are able.
https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f17/before-posting-about-unhealthy-fish-read-this-32451.html
https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f17/before-posting-about-unhealthy-fish-read-this-32451.html
The tank temperature is normally 27 degrees but yesterday I dropped it to 24 degrees. There is catappa leaf Anubias elodea moss rock in the aquarium.
I use tap water that has been aged for 3 days. I have a 30 liter tank. I have 2 apple snails in it, which I added within 1 week. I use tropical and sera brand bait. I pry the xinyou single pipe filter from time to time, the fish don't like the current. I dropped 5 ml of mikofish (nitrofur solution) into the aquarium yesterday, but there is no improvement.
When I first saw this disease, I did a 50 percent water change.2 days ago I noticed white in his eye. I poured methylene blue and gentamicin active drops. the next day the whitish cottony layer grew.
My fish swims but can't see the eye. I feed it twice a day. his eye looks swollen and wobbly inside the cotton layer.
I use tap water that has been aged for 3 days. I have a 30 liter tank. I have 2 apple snails in it, which I added within 1 week. I use tropical and sera brand bait. I pry the xinyou single pipe filter from time to time, the fish don't like the current. I dropped 5 ml of mikofish (nitrofur solution) into the aquarium yesterday, but there is no improvement.
When I first saw this disease, I did a 50 percent water change.2 days ago I noticed white in his eye. I poured methylene blue and gentamicin active drops. the next day the whitish cottony layer grew.
My fish swims but can't see the eye. I feed it twice a day. his eye looks swollen and wobbly inside the cotton layer.
Any idea on water parameters? Preferably before you did the water change.
How long has the tank been set up? How long have you had the fish in question?
Thats a lot of different medications you have mixed up in the water over a couple of days. Thats not really a good idea.
How long has the tank been set up? How long have you had the fish in question?
Thats a lot of different medications you have mixed up in the water over a couple of days. Thats not really a good idea.
I've had the fish for 1 month, the tank rule has been 2 weeks. I don't know about the water parameter. I am using pH 7 water. When a white layer descended on his eye, I suspected it was an eye fungus, I scooped the fish and poured methylene blue and gentamicillin drops into his eye and put it back into the aquarium. The next day, a cotton layer formed in his eye and started to grow. I have another aquarium at home, should I draw water from it and get the fish in a separate aquarium?
Take a cup full of water to test later. And then do 50% water changes every day until you are able to test the water. When you are able to test the water for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate let us know what they are for both the water sample you take now and for the water in your tank whenever you are able to get hold of a test kit.
Add some aquarium salt to the tank. 1 rounded tablespoon per 20 litres/ 5 gallons. Double this if you see no improvement after a couple of days.
Add some aquarium salt to the tank. 1 rounded tablespoon per 20 litres/ 5 gallons. Double this if you see no improvement after a couple of days.
ADsnail
Aquarium Advice Freak
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2020
- Messages
- 433
Good picture. This looks to me like Cotton Wool Disease, Flavobacterium Columnare (also known as Flexibacter Columnaris), which is not a fungal infection. It's caused by a number of factors: poor water quality, poor diet, sudden changes in water like temperature etc, low oxygen levels, and of course the ever-present word 'stress' which could include threats from other fish.
If that's what you're dealing with, it must be treated early for the strongest chance of not being fatal. As Aiken says, you have a lot of different medications going on; in other words, best to diagnose properly and narrow it down to the best choice. Armed with this name, there are pictures online to see if you find a match (look up Cotton Wool Disease, hit 'images') as well as treatment suggestions. Hopefully you'll get more advice here - especially if you provide more of the info Aiken asked for.
I also want to mention the apple snails. There's a lot of confusion about apple snails/mystery snails. It doesn't help that the official definition in most State's fish and game depts is that a mystery snail is classified as an apple snail but an apple snail is not a mystery snail. Huh? The most obvious way to tell is that apples are very big, mysteries are smaller. That doesn't help much, as every snail has to start small, and some mysteries can grow pretty big. If you bought your snails in a fish shop, especially a big-box store, it's probably a mystery. If you or a friend found on the side of the road, it's probably an apple. But apple snails can also be bought. Confused yet?
Why am I blathering on about this? Apple snails carry diseases that can infect an entire tank (that's why they're banned in many places). Mystery snails do not. If you have true apple snails in there, they may be the cause of disease. One quick eyeball way to tell the difference (no pun intended) is color: apple snails come in brown and a golden-brown. If your snails are blue, white, bright gold, or striped magenta, they are mysteries. But then again, mysteries also come in brown. Hope all this helps and doesn't confuse the issue.
If that's what you're dealing with, it must be treated early for the strongest chance of not being fatal. As Aiken says, you have a lot of different medications going on; in other words, best to diagnose properly and narrow it down to the best choice. Armed with this name, there are pictures online to see if you find a match (look up Cotton Wool Disease, hit 'images') as well as treatment suggestions. Hopefully you'll get more advice here - especially if you provide more of the info Aiken asked for.
I also want to mention the apple snails. There's a lot of confusion about apple snails/mystery snails. It doesn't help that the official definition in most State's fish and game depts is that a mystery snail is classified as an apple snail but an apple snail is not a mystery snail. Huh? The most obvious way to tell is that apples are very big, mysteries are smaller. That doesn't help much, as every snail has to start small, and some mysteries can grow pretty big. If you bought your snails in a fish shop, especially a big-box store, it's probably a mystery. If you or a friend found on the side of the road, it's probably an apple. But apple snails can also be bought. Confused yet?
Why am I blathering on about this? Apple snails carry diseases that can infect an entire tank (that's why they're banned in many places). Mystery snails do not. If you have true apple snails in there, they may be the cause of disease. One quick eyeball way to tell the difference (no pun intended) is color: apple snails come in brown and a golden-brown. If your snails are blue, white, bright gold, or striped magenta, they are mysteries. But then again, mysteries also come in brown. Hope all this helps and doesn't confuse the issue.
I bought apple snails from petshop in gold color. I don't have a test kit right now, I will buy a test kit. yes, my fish's eye looks like columnaris.
Colin_T
Aquarium Advice Addict
It has Saprolegnia fungus on the eye. Add some salt.
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
how many degrees is the temperature? his eye looks like it has popped out of his socket and is covered with a cloud. I did a 25 percent water change today, there was nitrofur mikofih solution in the water. Should I take it to the quarantine tank or add salt in my current tank?
Colin_T
Aquarium Advice Addict
Just add salt to the tank it was in and put the fish back in its tank.
If you handle sick or injured fish, you can damage them more and allow the infection to spread. Just leave them in the main tank and treat that because that's where the disease is.
If you handle sick or injured fish, you can damage them more and allow the infection to spread. Just leave them in the main tank and treat that because that's where the disease is.
