Cycling question.

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ImACoolguy

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Been running a fish less cycle with live plants on my 75g and every thing has gone pretty smooth besides a drop in pH (added crushed coral last night)

Tonight though, my ammonia has went from 4ppm to 0ppm in under 24 hours. My nitrites have went off the charts, my nitrates, have not. I'm double checking the Nitrate test right now to confirm.

Is this abnormal? Is it time for the water change if my ammonia is being brought to 0ppm in 24 hours?


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1423009992.478969.jpg


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
Dose the ammonia again after a 30%-50% water change to get it back up to 4ppm. This way, the nitrifying bacteria will still have a reason to keep working. If it drops to 0ppm again within 24 hours, then it's just a waiting game for the nitrAtes. The bacteria responsible for that conversion is pretty slow going sometimes, so it may take a while.

And yes, the nitrAte test is the easiest one to mess up with the API master kit IMHO. Follow the directions to the letter.

Good luck!!
 
Tested ammonia again and looks to be 0.25ppm now instead of 0ppm


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
That's not necessarily a bad thing. Once you have nitrAtes, then you will want ammonia and nitrItes to be 0ppm. Until then, it's all part of the roller coaster ride...
 
That's not necessarily a bad thing. Once you have nitrAtes, then you will want ammonia and nitrItes to be 0ppm. Until then, it's all part of the roller coaster ride...


My current levels are
pH: 7.6
Ammonia: 0.25ppm
NitrIte: off the chart
NitrAte: 20ppm


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
Oh, yay! You have nitrAtes!!

Then I prescribe a few good PWCs until the nitrites and ammonia are in check. I would add Purigen to your filter too, just to help keep things in check.

Once the ammonia and nitrites are back to 0ppm and your nitrAtes are between 5-10(personal preference), I would slowly add fish after a QT!
 
Oh, yay! You have nitrAtes!!

Then I prescribe a few good PWCs until the nitrites and ammonia are in check. I would add Purigen to your filter too, just to help keep things in check.

Once the ammonia and nitrites are back to 0ppm and your nitrAtes are between 5-10(personal preference), I would slowly add fish after a QT!


The guide that I was following said let the nitrites and nitrates get off the chart then do a big 80% WC


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
BUT if what you are saying is true then technically I am cycled I just need to get my nitrites back down?


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
I believe both methods will yield positive results. Unless I must, I refrain from doing large (>50%) water changes. That is just personal experience and preference.

The only benefit I see that the other method has, is that it makes sure you don't cut off your cycle prematurely. However, with the nitrAtes you are showing, I would say the bacteria is established enough where a smaller water change earlier on wouldn't cause an issue.

Do you have any kind of bio media in there? Matrix, biomax, black round ball thingies? If so, the bacteria living on that media should be well established by now.

Hope I've helped!


? Diana Lee ?
? the St. Augustine Redhead ?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
36g Rescape in Progress!
10g Orchid Endler's N-Class
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 
I believe both methods will yield positive results. Unless I must, I refrain from doing large (>50%) water changes. That is just personal experience and preference.

The only benefit I see that the other method has, is that it makes sure you don't cut off your cycle prematurely. However, with the nitrAtes you are showing, I would say the bacteria is established enough where a smaller water change earlier on wouldn't cause an issue.

Do you have any kind of bio media in there? Matrix, biomax, black round ball thingies? If so, the bacteria living on that media should be well established by now.

Hope I've helped!


? Diana Lee ?
? the St. Augustine Redhead ?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
36g Rescape in Progress!
10g Orchid Endler's N-Class
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


I have bio media in BOTH of my filters :) so I'm good to go just get levels under control??


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
I would give that a thumbs up! Once they're under control, add only a few fish so your bacteria can keep up with the increased bioload.


? Diana Lee ?
? the St. Augustine Redhead ?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
36g Rescape in Progress!
10g Orchid Endler's N-Class
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 
I would give that a thumbs up! Once they're under control, add only a few fish so your bacteria can keep up with the increased bioload.


? Diana Lee ?
? the St. Augustine Redhead ?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
36g Rescape in Progress!
10g Orchid Endler's N-Class
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


I'm doing peacocks/Haps cichlids. Any particular order or how many to start off? I don't want them establishing territories too quickly.


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g tetras/dojo loach/clown pleco
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
Oh, yay! You have nitrAtes!!

Then I prescribe a few good PWCs until the nitrites and ammonia are in check. I would add Purigen to your filter too, just to help keep things in check.

Once the ammonia and nitrites are back to 0ppm and your nitrAtes are between 5-10(personal preference), I would slowly add fish after a QT!

What exactly does the purigen do?
 
Purigen is a recharge-able filter media that (while stinky) keeps nitrItes and ammonia levels pretty well regulated when used alongside regular maintenance. I don't know how that happens (science!), but it is made and sold by Seachem in several different sizes. It lasts about 4-6 months before needing a recharge.


? Diana Lee ?
? the St. Augustine Redhead ?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
36g Rescape in Progress!
10g Orchid Endler's N-Class
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 
Well, sorta figured it helped keep water cleaner but was wondering what the chemistry or mechanism was. I wondered whether it was the same as Fluval's ammonia remover which is some granular material, but it's not rechargeable, but I've heard that the purigen is as I understand.
 
Well, sorta figured it helped keep water cleaner but was wondering what the chemistry or mechanism was. I wondered whether it was the same as Fluval's ammonia remover which is some granular material, but it's not rechargeable, but I've heard that the purigen is as I understand.


Yes believe it or not you recharge it by soaking it in bleach. Says so on the package.


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g ick problems/loach and 5 tetras left.
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
BUMP.

I did a good 80-85 percent WC and I checked my parameters. Everything looks great except for one big problem.

My nitrites are still through the roof!

Why??

pH: 7.4ish
Ammonia: 0ppm because of water change, dosing for the bacteria.

Nitrite: through the roof!

Nitrate: 40ppm


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g ick problems/loach and 5 tetras left.
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
Nothing? Come on guys I'm stumped. More water changes?


Caleb

~10g tiger barbs
~45g ick problems/loach and 5 tetras left.
~75g going to be African cichlids
 
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