Dying Anubias and Cryptocorynes

[Swank]

My Anubias barteri are turning very dark in color, some have ragged edges (I think they came with ragged edges on some of the older leaves)...they look like they're dying. One of them appear also to be covered with patches of little silver spots.

My crypotcoryne wendtii are also starting to look unhealthy...brown around the edges.

Tank is about a month old...Nitrites, Nitrates and Ammonia have just in the past week settled down to zero...

Also about a week ago I installed a new light, the 72 watts of 6700k (and algae bloom started!!).

Everything was looking so healthy, and I expected that the new light and zeros on the NO3 etc would make things even better. Now things are starting to look bad...

I have not yet fertilized...could this be my problem?? I have a substantial flourite substrate with gravel and sand on the top, so I want to avoid fertilizers with iron.

 

[malkore]

Yep, the problem IS nutrient levels. You're just shy of 2 watts per gallon. With no nitrates, the plants, even though low-light, are starving. Your algae bloom could very well be due to phosphate levels being two high compared to nitrate.
Ideally you want a 10:1 ratio of nitrates to phosphates in a moderate light tank. 37gallons sounds like a bow-front? If so, these are taller than standard tanks, so you'll need a little more light if you're trying to move into the moderate lighted tank setup.

Even at your current lighting, I think green cabomba would grow. It'd grow slow, but I've got some doing rather well in a 15H (tall) tank, with 1 13 watt and 1 10 watt screw-in PC bulbs. I'm gonna swap the 10 for another 13. the 13's are a low kelvin temp, but make my betta and neons more attractive looking, plus the hornwort's growing towards the 13watt. So i'll save that 6700k 10watt for when i setup my 5.5 again.

Ok, back onto your subject: since you don't have a ton of light, you don't need to keep nitrates at 20ppm...but you'll want at least 5ppm. Potassium Nitrate will probably be your best bet, as it's easy to dose, and you'll get some added potassium in levels no where high enough to even think about a potassium overdose.

I'd suggest getting SeaChems phosphate test kit. Figure out those levels and then we'll address any big phosphate issues.

The crypts and anubias should be fine under the new light. my crypt wenditti is always tempermental about any changes in the tank...including a few more watts. give it a couple weeks and it should adapt. Stick a root tab under each crypt, they like that under any light condition. They really seem to like the handmade ones I get from plantgeek.net
Anubias bartari leaves are a fairly dark green...not forest green, but the color of lush green lawn. Not sure on the silver spots, unless those are holes that haven't fully developed (the translucense of the hole forming might look silver)

 

[Guest]

I agree with malkore on this. You need ferts and nitrates. As mentioned, get a Phos. test kit. You want a 10:1 ratio between nitra and phos. If your Phos continue to run high (or outta balance with nitra), algae will get outta control.

Also, if you have'nt read Rex Grigg's FAQ that post on this site. It would be a good idea to do so. He's taken the time to share some very good information.

One other thing. Check into dry chemical ferts. They are far cheaper than liquid ferts (Seachem and Kents). Plus, IMO they are easier to dose than liquids. Don't forget iron as well. Iron is part of whats causing your yellowing leaves, along with other nutient defiencies.

 

[malkore]

and for Iron, SeaChems Flourish Iron is still a good source IME.

 

[Swank]

cool...thanks. Gotta get the Fertilzer going, I guess...and be patient with the fact that the plants went downhill so fast...