Filter Migration from an Infected Tank

[zer0signal]

So, I had an outbreak of Ich in my 20 gallon tank, and treatment began a few days ago and the outlook is bleak.. Have lost 70% of my stock, so I have decided to regulate my 20 Gallon to be a Hospital and Quarantine tank from now on... Not going through this crap again!

I went out and bought a 36 Gallon Bow Front, that will be my new office aquarium. But I wanted to use my Fluval C3 Filter on the new tank. Problem is its been in the tank with the Ich infection... I removed it from the 20G, and kept my Marineland Penguin 150 as the main filter in the Hospital tank.

So with the C3 removed, I rinsed all pieces with standard tap water (filter pads, ceramic beads, plastic parts), and it is now drying out.

What is the best way to get this in the new tank setup w/o spreading the Ich?

I know at this point i lost all of my BB because of the chlorine rinse the C3 got. But I plan to take 2 of my used Poly Fils (quilt batting) from my 60 Gallon and move it along with pre-filters to the new tank to kick start a new cycle. I have also been extra cautious of what equipment I used to fill and setup the new tank to prevent spreading.

 

[Mebbid]

There's really no reason fish should die from ich. It's super easy to treat. Raising the temperature to 86 and keeping it there for 2 weeks after the list sign of ich goes away will take care of it.

 

[zer0signal]

Well then I messed up twice,

1) by not quarantine new stock

2) doing something wrong that killed them during the out break


But what can I do to sanitize the used filter before placing it in my new tank?

 

[Mebbid]

Well then I messed up twice,

1) by not quarantine new stock

2) doing something wrong that killed them during the out break


But what can I do to sanitize the used filter before placing it in my new tank?

If you want to keep the bacteria, crank the temp to 86. If you want to actually sanitize it, use more bleach.

 

[Chesmok]

Cranking heat too high will kill the good bacteria too. If you're terrified of ich coming back don't use the poly fill to cycle.

Just start your 36g with 1-3 fish, some Seachem Stability (bacteria supplement I use all the time) and feed sparingly. Live plants if possible.

Ich usually doesn't kill but once established if there's some still alive its highly contagious and will get transferred to your new tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Mebbid]

Cranking heat too high will kill the good bacteria too. If you're terrified of ich coming back don't use the poly fill to cycle.

Just start your 36g with 1-3 fish, some Seachem Stability (bacteria supplement I use all the time) and feed sparingly. Live plants if possible.

Ich usually doesn't kill but once established if there's some still alive its highly contagious and will get transferred to your new tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

The 86 degrees I suggested is perfectly safe for bacteria. You would have to be well over 100 degrees to kill it

 

[zer0signal]

Cranking heat too high will kill the good bacteria too. If you're terrified of ich coming back don't use the poly fill to cycle.

Just start your 36g with 1-3 fish, some Seachem Stability (bacteria supplement I use all the time) and feed sparingly. Live plants if possible.

Ich usually doesn't kill but once established if there's some still alive its highly contagious and will get transferred to your new tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Thx Chesmok, I am not worried about the Polyfil, since its coming out of my established and thriving 60 gallon that is clean.

** As for the filter move, I soaked all the filter parts in hot tap water, scrubbed them all down, then dried them out for 24+ hrs, and repeated the process. They should be pretty sanitized, plus I would expect the complete dry out killed any parasite, fungus, or whatever on it.


I also I have no idea what I did wrong with this, but I lost all 6 of my Neon Tetras and 6 Cherry barbs during this ordeal. I don't know if it was the Meds or the 84 degress with the meds. Or something completely different than Ich.

This also did not seem to attack my Dwarf Goruami, as he is doing pretty good.

 

[BBradbury]

Your Tank

Hello zer...

A couple of things: To avoid "Ich", you need to take extremely good care of the tank water. Flush a lot of pure, treated tap water though the tank every few days and you'll have no tank problems, because toxins won't be in the tank long enough to stress the fish.

Larger tanks are best. They're more forgiving of lapses in tank management. You're wise to go with the 36. Plant it well with some good floating plants to help keep the tank water cleaner between water changes.

You can instantly cycle the new tank by removing a good portion of the filter media from a larger tank and putting it into your 36. Introduce new fish slowly and test the tank water daily for a week or so to make sure the water chemistry is stable. Again, don't forget the large, frequent water changes.

Have fun with the new tank.

B

 

[Mebbid]

Hello zer...

A couple of things: To avoid "Ich", you need to take extremely good care of the tank water. Flush a lot of pure, treated tap water though the tank every few days and you'll have no tank problems, because toxins won't be in the tank long enough to stress the fish./QUOTE]

The only way to avoid ich is proper quarantine procedure. It's a parasite not a bacteria. Once it's gone from a system it stays gone until you reintroduce it.

 

[mrvincent]

For cycling the Fluval C3, this should be fine.

For threating ick, pump up the temp 28-30C° progressively with the heater (not by adding hot water). Some aquarium salt (not reef salt, I mean pure aquarium NaCl) may help with ick.

If nothing works, there's the last solution, chems powder wich contains Malachite Green and Formalin. This is the best medication I know. This will kill inverts.


I can give you good advice for your Fluval C3, I know how this filter is working, I'm using this on my reef.

Place the old 60 bio media to this compartiment, over the white ceramic rings.

 

[zer0signal]

Hello zer...

A couple of things: To avoid "Ich", you need to take extremely good care of the tank water. Flush a lot of pure, treated tap water though the tank every few days and you'll have no tank problems, because toxins won't be in the tank long enough to stress the fish.

Larger tanks are best. They're more forgiving of lapses in tank management. You're wise to go with the 36. Plant it well with some good floating plants to help keep the tank water cleaner between water changes.

You can instantly cycle the new tank by removing a good portion of the filter media from a larger tank and putting it into your 36. Introduce new fish slowly and test the tank water daily for a week or so to make sure the water chemistry is stable. Again, don't forget the large, frequent water changes.

Have fun with the new tank.

B

Thanks BBrad, I do a 50% every Saturday or Sunday on both of my tanks, and water parms are perfect 0/0/10. The 20 gallon I just added those Neon's and Barbs this past week, so I really think it was just an infection from either LFS, or Pets "giant mega store". I am going with the latter...

I agree with the 36 being more stable, and that was a big reason for going with it and moving my 20 to be a dedicated quarantine tank (also the eye sore the medication created on the silicon).

I appreciate everyone for answering my questions, I am still very very new to this, but am loving this hobby because it has nothing to do with technology that I deal with on a daily basis.. Its a great break, and relaxing

Thank You All!