First corals...

[MarkW19]

My tank is now 6 months old, and I'd like to try some easy-to-keep corals/feather dusters/sponges etc. etc.

Some hardy ones, that don't require much up-keep.

I have 2 x 34" 39W T5 Marine White bulbs. Would I need any more light than this to keep corals?

Do I have to target feed them?

What about circulation - a lot or not much? Or does it depend on the coral?

Suggestions for an attractive, easy-to-keep coral or two?

Regards,

Mark

 

[piggybank2005]

get some polyps! they are easy enough.

you don't have to target feed. just use liquid invert food and make sure the circulation is good.

 

[Atari]

I have 4 of those same tubes, I think you would be fine with just 2 as long as you stay away from the more demanding species. Something like Alcyonium would thrive in the lower light. I think they call it pussey coral in the shops (Oasis has a ton of it).

Yellow polyps or mushrooms would be good choices too.. both incredibly hardy.

You wouldn't really be able to appreciate some of the other species (such as green star polyps) without actinic lighting. They don't look nearly as nice when they aren't fluorescing.

How much flow do you have?

 

[MarkW19]

I've got 2 Maxijet Powerheads - 600lph.

What about feather dusters and sponges?

Can the corals go on the sand...or do they have to have some live rock to stick to in my tank?

 

[MarkW19]

Just looking at liveaquaria.com for corals...

Can I get any of the mushrooms and polyps that are "easy" to keep, or can only certain ones be kept together?

Can they harm the water quality or fish/inverts at all (stinging, etc.)?

It says they require iodine - I assume this is present in my synthetic saltmix, but should I be testing for it and dose if required? I think you said before Atari that it's very easy to OD with iodine.

Would I really need to dose iodine? Is there an iodine testkit out there that actually works?

 

[piggybank2005]

mushrooms are hardy. but they are not as interesting. star polyps are fascinating if the flow is good and the light is actinic.

 

[darb2]

I would start with shrooms. most iodine requirements are met thru regular water changes.

 

[steve-s]

If you doubled your lighting amount you'd be able to keep a wider variety but with what you have I'd stick with lower light demanding species. Softies are going to be your main choice of which many should do well. The dusters will be fine and do not really need feeding although some phytoplankton a few times a month wouldn't hurt and it will also bolster your pod population indirectly feeding some coral types. I would avoid the sponges though. Most are quite difficult to keep long term and only a few actually survive past the first month. There are far too many mishaps that occur during collection, transport and at the LFS causing tissue clogging (from air expossure) resulting in necrosis. Our systems are also much too "sterile" for them to feed properly.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

Do I need actinic lighting, or will I be ok with what I've go for lower light demanding coralst?

So, any polys and any mushrooms, featherdusters, and any soft corals (there are a lot at liveaquaria.com)? Do I need to worry about compatibility between corals?

Do I need to place them on liverock or can they be placed straight on the sand?

Is it the same food for all corals?

And I shouldn't have to add any extra trace elements to the water (iodine/strontium etc.), it'll all be taken care of in my salt?

 

[MarkW19]

And, what about waterchanges...If the corals go above the level of the water when you're emptying it out?!?

 

[steve-s]

Do I need actinic lighting, or will I be ok with what I've go for lower light demanding coralst?

Actinic is not a must have but it is a great way to view the way certain corals fluoresce. It is something you can look into later if you wish.

So, any polys and any mushrooms, featherdusters, and any soft corals (there are a lot at liveaquaria.com)? Do I need to worry about compatibility between corals?

Soft corals can be quite noxious but as long as each has enough room apart from the next, you shouldn't have any concern. Aggressive skimming and carbon use will curb any problems.

Do I need to place them on liverock or can they be placed straight on the sand?

Depends on the needs of the ooral as far as lighting and water flow. If both can be met by placing it on the substrate, then it would be fine. Just be sure the coral is attached to a solid base and the coral itself does not go below the sand surface.

Is it the same food for all corals?

Not really. Many corals will capture foods of varying micron size. The types of foods also vary. With soft corals though, feeding is not truely necessary and can often lead to water fouling in the attampt to do so. I would honestly nix that idea and just possibley use a quality phytoplankton on a weekly basis.

And I shouldn't have to add any extra trace elements to the water (iodine/strontium etc.), it'll all be taken care of in my salt?

Rely on the salt for most things, especially for a soft coral tank. Avoid the urge to add things unneccessarily and especially without testing first.

And, what about waterchanges...If the corals go above the level of the water when you're emptying it out?!?

Again it would depend on the coral. Most should not be a problem as long as the time frame is short. Sponges and the like should not be placed where this would be possible but that is an addition you should avoid.

I would suggest your first purchase be

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

Cheers Steve, will buy the book!

 

[Shultz]

Cheers Steve, will buy the book!

Thats the book I told you about on the other forum

Cheers Shelton.

 

[MarkW19]

 

[MarkW19]

I don't really want to upgrade my lighting, for money and heat reasons! So I'd like to stick with the lighting I've got. Will I be ok for most corals? Which corals can I not keep with my lighting (2 x 39w 36" T5's)? And I guess I'll have to get corals that don't need that much waterflow, given my set-up.

Is skimming and carbon a must steve? What will these do for the corals?

And, is it possible for any corals to harm fish/inverts or the water in the tank?

 

[steve-s]

I don't really want to upgrade my lighting, for money and heat reasons! So I'd like to stick with the lighting I've got. Will I be ok for most corals? Which corals can I not keep with my lighting (2 x 39w 36" T5's)? And I guess I'll have to get corals that don't need that much waterflow, given my set-up.

You'd pretty much need to stick with soft corals, dusters and other lower light types. Still a fair amount to choose from really. I would avoid most types of zoanthuds though.

Is skimming and carbon a must steve? What will these do for the corals?

Neither is a must providing you are religious about your water changes or employ some other means of export. Soft corals are especially prone to chemical warfare. The water can become polluted with chemical toxins and nematocysts that are undetectable to us and will greatly affect the overall health of your corals. If possible, I would try running carbon at least weekly. It will help remove a great deal of the problem along with the water changes. Macro algae that might be used in a refugium set up will not really be of any help with chemical problems.

And, is it possible for any corals to harm fish/inverts or the water in the tank?

Usually no but some fish (tangs and angels) do nibble corals and some are quite noxious and can lead to death. The chances of a typical coral causing you a fish or mobile invert related death is quite slim.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

So, the chemical toxins and nematocysts are just harmful to the corals and not the fish/mobile inverts and water quality in general?

 

[steve-s]

Unless the problem builds up for a time, no it should be a problem for the fish at least. Be sure that is not your only consideration though. If left unchecked, your corals could die "enmass".

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

Creating an ammonia spike?

 

[steve-s]

Creating an ammonia spike?

If the corals die definately. The chemicals they give off won't cause any detectable water quality issues. Your only clue will be corals withering, not fully extending and in some cases being affected by brown jelly disease which is not pretty.

Cheers
Steve