Fluval Spec V and Lighting

[totalnoob]

Good morning, everyone!

I am totally new to planted tanks, and I have a Fluval Spec V straight out of the box that I am cycling (I have since learned that cycling with plants is bad juju, but..they're in there already, so okay), and I was wondering about the light that comes stock.

I have been researching and I can't seem to find any definitive answers as to whether the light is good enough for low light, low tech plants. I have four anubias, and one java fern. My tall anubias is growing a new leaf, and yesterday I had to actually move two of the anubias closer to the substrate because they were getting transparent splotches in their leaves, so I figured they were up too high/too close to the light.

The plants seem to be okay so far, however I have only had the tank about two weeks. For long-term keeping, I am trying to figure out if I need to upgrade the light or not. I have seen people say "Omg, that light is complete crap, even my anubias won't grow" and I have seen people say "I've got anubias, java fern, java moss, <insert any other plant here> and they're thriving with the stock light!" I have seen a lot of people recommend the Finnex Fugeray 16" or 20" lights for this particular tank, and I have seen videos where they are definitely MUCH brighter - however I wonder if that light would then be too bright for the plants I currently have, and then I'd have to add vegetative cover or whathaveyou to keep the plants from burning up. Though I have also seen that the Fugeray lights are still "low" level lights, even being that much brighter...so...yep, I am utterly confused.

I don't really know any of the technical terms (like PAR, for example) and what they mean. The light claims to be 7500K, but from what I've been reading, a lot of people say they're only 1800K? How can you tell/measure?

I have been reading some of the beginner threads here, however a lot of the links are Error 404 now. Mostly, I would just like suggestions on whether or not I can keep the stock light or if I should upgrade.

 

[Brian_Nano12g]

Although I haven't owned a spec v, I'm pretty sure the stock light is strong enough for your low light plants. You should start dosing flourish comp and excel.

But I've also read that the stock light isn't that great. So if you do upgrade the light, I'd get the Current Satellite LED+ instead of a Finnex. Finnex is a good fixture but it's not dimmable. You might run into algae problems with those fixtures if you leave the lights on too long.

PAR is a measurement in how we can determine the light level you have. PAR is dramatically affected by distance from the light to substrate level. So on taller tanks, the light wouldn't be bad.. But on shallow tanks, the light may be brighter and result in algae without CO2 injection and a more comprehensive fertilizer regimen. We refer to high light CO2 injected tanks as high-tech.. anyways, since you want to go low tech with ability to grow moderate light demanding plants down the road, check out the Current Satellite LED+.

Here's a Spec V with one, as an example:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=364809

Edit:
FYI, the thread I linked to is old and the OP got the light when it newly released. Despite the comment of no timer, a manual timer can be added and used with the Sat+.

 

[totalnoob]

Thank you! I actually started adding co2 yesterday, I have API CO2 booster. I ordered some Flourish, that should arrive tomorrow, and I will start using that then as well. I am currently cycling the tank, so I have an added airstone, and I was wondering if the amount of co2 I need to add is more due to this? I have read that bubble stones can outgas co2. Should I not have the bubble stone? I am eventually going to add a betta to this tank, and I have read that they don't really like bubble stones or the strong current of this tank, so I have the Fluval pre-filter sponge to use as a baffle when the time comes, and I can either turn the bubble stone way down with a valve or take it out completely. The only thing I worry about by taking it out completely is that I have read that without proper surface agitation, I can develop a film or algae on the surface, which is where bettas like to hang out. It's confusing to me, because I've read that I need to have my plants "gently swaying in the breeze", but that bettas hate current. I don't know how to keep both happy when the time comes, lol.

I like that light in your example a lot. I will do more research on it, it looks like it would work nicely.

 

[Brian_Nano12g]

API CO2 booster is a liquid carbon source, like Excel.. it's not actual gas CO2. You won't off gas it with an airstone. Running an airstone is up to you. It's completely unnecessary most of the time. With most fish you'd just need a little surface agitation for o2 exchange. But in the case with a betta, they can get o2 from their gills in water, and labyrinth organ from the surface. The airstone would help keep surface film from forming. But if you do weekly partial water changes, that can help too. Another method I've been using lately for surface protein is spraying hydrogen peroxide on it. Clears it up by the next day.

 

[totalnoob]

That's good to know. Is it a mixture of peroxide and water, or just straight h2o2?

 

[Brian_Nano12g]

Just straight 3% solution from the market. I pour it in a small spray bottle.

 

[totalnoob]

Nice, thanks for the tip!