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DanS180
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spoonman said:
Yep, definitely gonna get a background but wanted to get the essentials first
fowlr tank soon to be in progress
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Yep, definitely gonna get a background but wanted to get the essentials first
crister13
Aquarium Advice Addict
It means that a smaller amount of bad stuff will pollute the water more easily, because there isn't as much space for it to be diluted. Also, the inside of rock is where denitrification takes place, and if no water gets there, nitrates will most likely he high. I would get like 10 pounds of live rock plus what you have. It'll look really good and be great filtration.
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
DanS180 said:
It means that "reef ready" rock is better to use as a portion of the rock in larger tanks. But, just like with normal live rock, some are better than others. It's a man made rock and there are lots of ways to make it. Some people make it very porous and light with lots of internal holes (usually using salt to achieve this) and it filters well and is much lighter than the stuff that's just molded as solid concrete and sand. If you bought this kind of reef ready rock it's going to do a lot to filter your tank. But real live rock comes from the ocean and usually has lots of the best bacteria and tiny live organisms that add to the diversity of life in your tank. These living things help consume fish waste, and some of the organisms become food that fish can feed on. If you get another piece of real live rock the life on it will eventually move to the rock you already have and make it better. Try googling "benefits of live rock in a saltwater tank" to get some knowledge about it. It's interesting stuff!
EDIT: I didn't see crister's post when I made mine. He's 100% right on the money.
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DanS180
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CorallineAlgae said:It means that "reef ready" rock is better to use as a portion of the rock in larger tanks. But, just like with normal live rock, some are better than others. It's a man made rock and there are lots of ways to make it. Some people make it very porous and light with lots of internal holes (usually using salt to achieve this) and it filters well and is much lighter than the stuff that's just molded as solid concrete and sand. If you bought this kind of reef ready rock it's going to do a lot to filter your tank. But real live rock comes from the ocean and usually has lots of the best bacteria and tiny live organisms that add to the diversity of life in your tank. These living things help consume fish waste, and some of the organisms become food that fish can feed on. If you get another piece of real live rock the life on it will eventually move to the rock you already have and make it better. Try googling "benefits of live rock in a saltwater tank" to get some knowledge about it. It's interesting stuff!
Okay awesome, I just got 5lbs of regular live rock, gonna put em in and see how it looks. Pictures coming soon!
Nu-Nu the eel
Aquarium Advice Addict
DanS180 said:
Make sure its cured
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DanS180
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Nu-Nu the eel said:
Its cured
A girl at the LFS said I could use the same test bottles from my freshwater kit for saltwater. Is that true??
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
DanS180 said:Its cured
A girl at the LFS said I could use the same test bottles from my freshwater kit for saltwater. Is that true??
If the box on the kit says it's for freshwater and saltwater use you should be okay. Some kits really are for both.
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DanS180
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Its an API master freshwater test kit... but it doesn't say anything about SW on the box, can I still use it or no?
carey
Aquarium Advice Addict
API works for both sw and fw. The colors are a little different for the results but basically the same. Green still means ammonia, though it will be a little cloudy due to the saltwater. Nitrites are purple and nitrates are red or orange.
The colors are a little different for the results but basically the same. Green still means ammonia, though it will be a little cloudy due to the saltwater. Nitrites are purple and nitrates are red or orange.
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DanS180
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carey said:API works for both sw and fw.
Okay the only concern I have is that when I tested for HR pH.. the result was red and there isn't any red on the card lol is that bad??
carey
Aquarium Advice Addict
High range ph should come out like a purple color for 8.3 or so. The more brown it is the lower it is. I have no idea about a red result though. lol
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
DanS180 said:
Some API test kits come with two different color cards. One labeled freshwater the other saltwater. You need to have both cards in the box to know the actual ranges. I don't have the pH kit so I'm really not sure if the colors are different. You may need to get a saltwater specific tests for just one or two things. They're always more accurate anyway. For ammonia, nitrate and KH the API tests should be ok.
Glad to hear you got a piece of live rock. Can't wait to see a pic of your tank now! I love mini- reefs!
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DanS180
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CorallineAlgae said:
I'm trying to upload photos but my app keeps crashing :/... I'll get on my laptop in a lil bit ans upload pics
I guess I'll have to go out n get specific tests, I don't wanna "assume" anything on my first SW tank ya know? Lol
CorallineAlgae
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DanS180 said:
Did you check to see if any of your tests had a color chart for saltwater? I know a couple of my API tests have them.
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DanS180
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Yeah i did look, unfortunately it looks like its specifically for freshwater :/
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DanS180
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DanS180
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oh and after 1 day of being setup and 1 1/2 days of a decaying shrimp in there here are my numbers.
HR pH... closest looks like 8.2 i guess lol
Ammona - .50ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 0ppm
Salinity 1.028 <--- high isnt it?? or is that bc of the shrimp maybe?
HR pH... closest looks like 8.2 i guess lol
Ammona - .50ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 0ppm
Salinity 1.028 <--- high isnt it?? or is that bc of the shrimp maybe?
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DanS180
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1 more question that I just thought of, the pippete you use for the refractometer.. should you always use the same one or should I buy more of them??
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
DanS180 said:
You can always use the same one as long as you rinse it out after each use with bottled or RO water, just like the glass on the refractometer. The idea is to not let any salt from the previous test stay on either the refractometer or the pipette. If any salt remains on them your readings will get higher and higher throwing off your test results, and yes.. 1.028 is to high.
Are you using RO water or salt water to top off your tank when the water level gets low?
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DanS180
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CorallineAlgae said:
I haven't had to top off yet, tanks only been set up for 2 days, I actually had to take a little bit out to make room for the live rock lol and I'm using RO water.
And okay I didn't know you had to completely rinse them off. Guess I'll clean em real good then test salinity again.. maybe that's why its high
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