Help with plant ID

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Well, it depends what your goal is for the tank. The way I see it, you've got two paths. One leads to a more high tech, CO2+fert tank with, while the other goes toward more medium light, but lower maintenance/resource (and probably less headache and $$). It really depends on where you want to go from here.

I want to go with more low tech and less spending. As long as my plants can still thrive. What are your opinions on those LEDs I mentioned above?
 
So, you've got a 4xT5HO Odyssea t5HO now, and you're considering trading it in for the Ray II LED? I would probably stick to your guns for now. I believe that an odyssea 2xT5HO will be about the same amount of light as the Ray II, but you also have the option of doubling it if you want to in the future. It's also pretty easy to reduce light using window screening like so if you want less light.
 
So, you've got a 4xT5HO Odyssea t5HO now, and you're considering trading it in for the Ray II LED? I would probably stick to your guns for now. I believe that an odyssea 2xT5HO will be about the same amount of light as the Ray II, but you also have the option of doubling it if you want to in the future. It's also pretty easy to reduce light using window screening like so if you want less light.

Thx I didn't know I could do that I'll also research that when I have more time. Now to an unrelated question. Wth is in my shrimp tank?! I probably should start a new thread for this but tell me if you can. What kind of fish eggs stick to java moss or hc? If you recall I ordered some of each and received it yesterday. Just now I looked into my tanks as I usually do and unfortunately I found two more dead shrimp :/ that's like the 7th one since last week. Anyway I threw java moss in there and some of the hc. And just now when I looked I have about 30 fry!! I have no idea what they could be or what to do with them! I'm thinking of throwing them I'm the 2.5 since the shrimp in there are thriving. One of then actually gave birth two days ago and I can count at least five baby shrimp. I assume there's more in the java moss. I'm gonna email the seller and hopefully he can tell me what they are.
 

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With that much light you also need to be dosing liquid carbon along with the CO2 as that CO2 system will not be enough for that much light. You can buy Metricide 14 Day Solution, a gallon for about $27 shipped. Mix it at a 1:1 ratio with RO or distilled water. I mix it up and use old Excel bottles. It has to be kept in opaque bottles as light breaks the Glut down. Then you want to use it at a rate of 1ml Glut (Metricide14) for every 2 gallons of tank water. In a couple weeks time you will probably need to up your dose it 1ml Glut to every 1 gallon of tank water along with using the CO2 system. You also need to be using dry ferts so plants get all the macro and micro nutrients they need. Here is the info... As for dry fert this $15 package is all you need and will last a couple years... http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro-fertilizers.html. You need 3 dosing bottles found at the bottom of this page... http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html. This is a good thread about dosing PPS-Pro. Only read the opening post not all the comments after it.... http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/pps-analysis-feedback/39491-newbie-guide-pps-pro.html. There are two things I do different from the article. First I use 3 dosing bottles as I split the macro nutrients for better custom dosing to the needs of the tank. Nitrates in one bottle, phosphates and potassium in one bottle, and micro's in the 3rd bottle. The other thing you'll notice the recipe calls for using MgSO4, magnesium sulfate, which you don't need if you have hard tap with a gh of 4 or above. The plant you have does appear to be red nesaea since it has pink red stems. It is a high light plant that needs CO2 and dry ferts. You also need to plant each stem individually so leaves of each stem almost touch the leaves of the stem plants around them.


So, you've got a 4xT5HO Odyssea t5HO now, and you're considering trading it in for the Ray II LED? I would probably stick to your guns for now. I believe that an odyssea 2xT5HO will be about the same amount of light as the Ray II, but you also have the option of doubling it if you want to in the future. It's also pretty easy to reduce light using window screening like so if you want less light.

Okay so I decided I want to go ahead and try this. First off my tank is overstocked so would all these solutions hurt my many fish or invertebrates in any way?
I'm now running only one pair of my t5 ho lights for six hours a day with that black charcoal screen right under the lights. According to the testing on the thread pointed out above, that reduces the intensity of my lighting by 40% do you still suggest I buy the matricide solution? Or is it now unnecessary given my new lighting level?

I definitely want to get the dry ferts since everyone here agreed that they would be much help.. I'm just a little confused with the websites dosage calculator. Actually very confused lol. So would the suggested dosage in the thread of 1ml for every ten gallons be safe for my plants, fish and snails/shrimp?

I'm gonna take your advise and keep the solutions in separate bottles but, before I buy any of that I want to get your opinions.. I would hate to ruin my tank. I'm currently doing 30% weekly water changes, six hours dimmed lights, and I no longer turn on the bubbler at night to keep higher co2 levels and my fish don't seem to mind. I'm ready to buy the ferts and bottles along with a scale from amazon for better measurements when I mix the ferts. I hope you can guide me through the process I really appreciate all the help and advise you guys have given me so far.
 
Also what would you advise regarding the flourish excel. I forgot to mention I'm dosing daily excel and for the next two weeks I have a dose of nutria fins plant gro.. Will I still need the,?
 
You do dose each solution of ferts at a rate of 1ml for every 10g of water. But I test my nitrates and phosphate levels weekly and if I notice either of those levels are too high or maybe one is too low (just examples) then I can dose more or less of nitrate and or phosphate/potassium mix. It's not as complicated as it sounds and by doing this I can keep my nitrate levels low (10ppm for my tanks) and phosphates higher (about 3-5ppm for my tanks). Usually with a planted tank you aim for 10-20ppm of nitrates and 1-3ppm phosphates. These levels are perfectly safe for fish and inverts.

You can try not dosing the liquid carbon with your decrease in lighting. I still use some as it really aids in keeping any algae issues at bay. But that is just me.
 
So would you say I still have too much light and that algae will keep blooming? I really want to get rid of it as it has taken over my tank. The water has a tint of green to it and I suppose that's algae. But if I add too much co2 it will cause the same algae bloom won't it? Is the balance between light and co2 an estimate through trial and error? Or would it be fine to have higher co2 than light when it comes to my plants "diet"
 
Okay seems you have a new issue. If you actual tank water is green (put some in a white cup and see if it is tinted green) that is a green water algae bloom. You have two choice with this. Do a 3 day total black out, no peeking, and see if it kills off all the free floating algae. The other choice which will kill all the free floating algae usually in a couple days is to add a UV sterilizer. Many people on this site have very good results with this unit... Green Killing Machine Internal UV Sterilizer with Power Head at PETCO.

After you get this issue taken care of you can do the other to keep algae away and the tank balanced. Adding more CO2 actually helps the plants to photosynthesize and grow faster which makes them need more nutrients and helps them to out compete algae.
 
Cool! I didn't think of actually taking a better look at the water. I tried the clear cup and I was wrong. It's not the water that's green it must be the algae on the glass. I'll be doing better cleaning of the glass when I change the water. I noticed that the algae is much thinner above the water level I left in the tank when I changed the water. I assume algae dies quickly when it's not underwater.
 

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So I take it all these chemicals are added on a daily basis right? I'm ready to make my order just wanna be sure before it gets here. I do want to keep adding glute or co2 if it helps with algae
 
If your using CO2 don't stop. Adding Glut can help with algae since it actually acts as an algaecide. And yes you dose the ferts daily but also suggest testing nitrates and phosphates right before your weekly WC to be sure your levels are where you want them.
 
I don't have a phosphate test kit. Is APIs test kit good for this purpose? Or is there a more accurate or specific test kit? I have the master test kit which includes the nitrate test
 
I don't have a phosphate test kit. Is APIs test kit good for this purpose? Or is there a more accurate or specific test kit? I have the master test kit which includes the nitrate test

I have the API Phosphate test kit which works fine.
 
Okay now a question regarding metricide. I was reading that it's simply a much cheaper alternative to excel. I believe you wrote 1ml per gallon.. Did you mean 10g? Most opinions online keep saying use the same dose as excel, which is 1ml per two gallons in my tank. Also some people say they don't even mix it. They just use half the dose and let it dilute in the aquariums water. This would work better for me since I don't have any extra excel bottles. So would 1ml of un diluted metricide be okay for every 4 gallons? That comes up to 7ml daily. And it says 14 day solution. I assume it lasts 14 days IF you mix it correct? Because it's unlikely that all the people that recommend it for the better price buy one every 14 days.

Now once I get to dosing all these ferts and glute would it be okay to remove the screen and run one pair of lights for 6 hours? I really don't like the dimmed lighting on my tank. It doesn't shine like I want it to. Please verify my newly found research.. (More of just peoples opinions) as I now consider this thread and it's participants my guide :) and your opinions are what's driving my tank hopefully towards a healthy vibrant joy for me..
thank you all again.
 
Okay now a question regarding metricide. I was reading that it's simply a much cheaper alternative to excel. I believe you wrote 1ml per gallon.. Did you mean 10g? Most opinions online keep saying use the same dose as excel, which is 1ml per two gallons in my tank. Also some people say they don't even mix it. They just use half the dose and let it dilute in the aquariums water. This would work better for me since I don't have any extra excel bottles. So would 1ml of un diluted metricide be okay for every 4 gallons? That comes up to 7ml daily. And it says 14 day solution. I assume it lasts 14 days IF you mix it correct? Because it's unlikely that all the people that recommend it for the better price buy one every 14 days.

Now once I get to dosing all these ferts and glute would it be okay to remove the screen and run one pair of lights for 6 hours? I really don't like the dimmed lighting on my tank. It doesn't shine like I want it to. Please verify my newly found research.. (More of just peoples opinions) as I now consider this thread and it's participants my guide :) and your opinions are what's driving my tank hopefully towards a healthy vibrant joy for me..
thank you all again.

Yes that is the right stuff on your link.

Yes you can dose the Glut (Metricide 14) straight at 1/2 the amount you would dose Excel.

Glut which is the same as Excel breaks down in a tank within 12-24 hours. The gallon bottle of Metricide 14 comes with a small activator bottle that you NEVER use and throw away. It is this activator solution when added to the gallon of Glut that makes a 14 day sterilizing solution. That has nothing to do with using the straight Glut only in our tanks.

When I talked about using 1ml of liquid carbon to every 1 gallon of tank water that was when we were talking about your very high lighting. If you dose 1ml of Excel for every 2 gallons of tank water now then just continue that but at half the dose if you get and dose Metricide 14 without diluting it.

I see no reason you shouldn't run one bank of lights without the screen for 6 hours daily.
 
When it comes to the drop checker for co2 is this a permanent addition to the tank? Like the bubble ladders? Or is this something that I'll need to test weekly or maybe even daily.. If so when is the best time for the test? And I see that it comes with a liquid that needs to be added to the glass.. Will I need to keep stocking up on this? Or is it more of a one time expense or at least an affordable long term restocking price.
 
Why is that mondo grass still in your tank.
I know it looks cool but it will eventually die no matter what you do it isn't a real aquatic plant.
I am only saying this because i wasted my money on 2 pots a few months ago.
 
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