jarrod0987
Aquarium Advice FINatic
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
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DISCLAIMER: None of the tests used in this experiment are very accurate. No livestock was resent during these experiments. They were conducted in a 4 cup measuring cup.
I wanted to see if regular levels of chlorine found in my tap water could react with normal levels of ammonia found in a tank during a cycle and form Chloramine. Suppose a person did a WC and forgot to add the dechlorinator. Could it forms significant levels of chloramine which would then not be removed by aeration an stay around a long time killing the bacteria and fish etc?
I used 50 F water from my tap. The Chlorine strips will not react with 75 F water and at 50 F they only seem to show about half of what is really there based on what my Hanna Total Chlorine Checker tells me.
In the past I have used around 1 drop of household ammonia for 1 gal of actual water and got a concentration of around 0.25 ppm from API.
In this case I did half a drop (By dilution with RODI) into 3 cups of water. According to my calculations this gives around 0.66 ppm of Ammonia which is definitely an appropriate level for a cycling tank.
I tried taking photos of the various test strips and results but I have a low light situation and a flash that will not be disabled no matter what I try so you will just have to take my word for it I guess.
First I tested the cold water from the tap and got 0.5 ppm of both Free and Total Chlorine. This would really be more like 1 ppm if I had used the Hanna Total Chlorine Checker. The results mean that I have Chlorine and not Chloramine.
Next I added my 1/2 drop of Ammonia and stirred for a few seconds then retested. The test strips only take a few seconds to react BTW. The results were exactly what is "Supposed to happen". The Total Chlorine was still 0.5 ppm but now Free Chlorine is 0 ppm. This means the chlorine is now converted to chloramine.
Next I wanted to see how fast Prime could clear the water. I added 3 drops of prime and stirred for a few seconds and retested. Both Free and Total Chlorine now read 0 ppm. Impressive but be warned, these strips only show about half of what is there so it could be there were still dangerous levels. However, having previously investigated with my Hanna Checker I bet it really is close to 0.06 ppm or less of chlorine at this point. With light aeration it would be 0.00 ppm in a few minutes.
As an afterthought I wanted to see if the Ammonia was still detectable with an API during and after the prime did it's thing.
I repeated the set up. I verified that once I added the Ammonia I had Chlormanine. This time the strip said more like 0.35 ppm Total Chlorine and 0 ppm Free Chlorine. This would be around 0.7 ppm of Total Chlorine if I was using the Hanna Checker. I am saving those test chems for some upcoming tests I want to do
Anyways I tests for ammonia with API and I got 0.75 ppm. I think so anyways because this color green is not even on the chart.
I added 2 drops of Prime and stirred and Retested. Both Free and Total Chlorine are now 0 ppm. I retested with API ammonia test. I was shocked to discover it only read 0.25 ppm. That is not what is supposed to happen as API is a Total Ammonia and not a Free Ammonia test as per the box. So the Ammonia is still detectable but at half of the amount. It is possible the prime might be changing how the test reads. Just wanted to share my findings.
I wanted to see if regular levels of chlorine found in my tap water could react with normal levels of ammonia found in a tank during a cycle and form Chloramine. Suppose a person did a WC and forgot to add the dechlorinator. Could it forms significant levels of chloramine which would then not be removed by aeration an stay around a long time killing the bacteria and fish etc?
I used 50 F water from my tap. The Chlorine strips will not react with 75 F water and at 50 F they only seem to show about half of what is really there based on what my Hanna Total Chlorine Checker tells me.
In the past I have used around 1 drop of household ammonia for 1 gal of actual water and got a concentration of around 0.25 ppm from API.
In this case I did half a drop (By dilution with RODI) into 3 cups of water. According to my calculations this gives around 0.66 ppm of Ammonia which is definitely an appropriate level for a cycling tank.
I tried taking photos of the various test strips and results but I have a low light situation and a flash that will not be disabled no matter what I try so you will just have to take my word for it I guess.
First I tested the cold water from the tap and got 0.5 ppm of both Free and Total Chlorine. This would really be more like 1 ppm if I had used the Hanna Total Chlorine Checker. The results mean that I have Chlorine and not Chloramine.
Next I added my 1/2 drop of Ammonia and stirred for a few seconds then retested. The test strips only take a few seconds to react BTW. The results were exactly what is "Supposed to happen". The Total Chlorine was still 0.5 ppm but now Free Chlorine is 0 ppm. This means the chlorine is now converted to chloramine.
Next I wanted to see how fast Prime could clear the water. I added 3 drops of prime and stirred for a few seconds and retested. Both Free and Total Chlorine now read 0 ppm. Impressive but be warned, these strips only show about half of what is there so it could be there were still dangerous levels. However, having previously investigated with my Hanna Checker I bet it really is close to 0.06 ppm or less of chlorine at this point. With light aeration it would be 0.00 ppm in a few minutes.
As an afterthought I wanted to see if the Ammonia was still detectable with an API during and after the prime did it's thing.
I repeated the set up. I verified that once I added the Ammonia I had Chlormanine. This time the strip said more like 0.35 ppm Total Chlorine and 0 ppm Free Chlorine. This would be around 0.7 ppm of Total Chlorine if I was using the Hanna Checker. I am saving those test chems for some upcoming tests I want to do
Anyways I tests for ammonia with API and I got 0.75 ppm. I think so anyways because this color green is not even on the chart. I added 2 drops of Prime and stirred and Retested. Both Free and Total Chlorine are now 0 ppm. I retested with API ammonia test. I was shocked to discover it only read 0.25 ppm. That is not what is supposed to happen as API is a Total Ammonia and not a Free Ammonia test as per the box. So the Ammonia is still detectable but at half of the amount. It is possible the prime might be changing how the test reads. Just wanted to share my findings.
