My 30gal Project

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93MSB

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Joined
Dec 25, 2012
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30gal Project

This build starts off with me acquiring my dads old Oceanic 30gal tall hexagon after he moved. Thinking that I know the routine I setup the aquarium, add water, water treatment, run for 24-48hrs, add fish and go.

the gf and I decided on:
2-harlequin rasboras (wanted 3 but we had a stow-away black neon)
1-Black Neon Tetra
3-Glofish (black skirt tetras)
0-pleco (died 6 days after adding to tank)
1-red tail black shark (replacement from pleco death)

I set the aquarium up on the night of Dec 8th and added the listed fish above (minus shark) to the tank. Everything seemed to be going smooth until we left for town dec15-16. I had placed 1/2 a weekend feeder in the tank, which was not touched. The pleco was at the top of the tank when we returned home the 16th and wasnt looking good. I did a PWC of 6gal. but it was too late and he died the 17th. We went to the pet store with the pleco in a bag w/water on the 18th. I asked to have the water tested but the employee said he couldnt because i put the dead fish in the same bag as the water. He said pleco's die often and i thought it might have been because it was a new tank and there was no algae for him to eat. I then opted for the red tail black shark. After the pleco died is when I got online and really started doing some research. I started researching about "the cycle" and finally realized i needed a water testing kit.

I purchased the API master test kit and here are my results from dec22-dec25

12/22 - temp:74 ph:7.7 ammo:3 nitrItes:.5 nitrAtes:5
12/23 - temp:74 ph:7.7 ammo:2 nitrItes:.75 nitrAtes:5
12/24 - temp:74 ph:7.7 ammo:4 nitrItes:.5 nitrAtes:5
12/25 - temp:73 ph:7.7 ammo:4 nitrItes:.5 nitrAtes:5

I have been doing 3gal PWC's every night and using prime to treat the water.

I am currently running a tetra whisper 40 but i have a fluval c4 coming on thursday i will run simultaneously until it catches up.

i think im on the right track, but i wanted to post this thread up and get some help along the way with the cycling process. Any help and advice is much appreciated

ill see if I can get some pics of my setup on here here in a minute..
 
edit:double post. sry.
 

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Welcome! You had a rough start but you're getting back on track. I wouldn't add any more fish for a while and then only a couple at a time. Keep up the water changes and do some research on the red tail shark.
 
In fact with those numbers I'd up the pwc to 50% daily till your numbers come down.
 
thanks, I thought the ammo might be a little high for a fish in cycle, but they do seem to be tolerating it thus far. One issue i have right now is i only have 2 3gal buckets. One i use to put water in to remove chlorine and the other is to remove the water from the tank. how big of a no no is adding tap water with prime immediately? or can I reduce the time the water sits to 12hrs?

I did do a little research on the shark and I know the footprint of my tank is too small for him. he's at about 2-2.5in right now and is very content with swimming around the castle. He isn't bothering any of the other tank mates (yet). I have been looking at the 50-55 gal tanks, is 36in long big enough for him? I think I would rather have a wider tank as opposed to a longer one, are there any benefits to a longer tank?

thanks again!
 
This build starts off with me acquiring my dads old Oceanic 30gal tall hexagon after he moved. Thinking that I know the routine I setup the aquarium, add water, water treatment, run for 24-48hrs, add fish and go.

the gf and I decided on:
2-harlequin rasboras (wanted 3 but we had a stow-away black neon)
1-Black Neon Tetra
3-Glofish (black skirt tetras)
0-pleco (died 6 days after adding to tank)
1-red tail black shark (replacement from pleco death)

I set the aquarium up on the night of Dec 8th and added the listed fish above (minus shark) to the tank. Everything seemed to be going smooth until we left for town dec15-16. I had placed 1/2 a weekend feeder in the tank, which was not touched. The pleco was at the top of the tank when we returned home the 16th and wasnt looking good. I did a PWC of 6gal. but it was too late and he died the 17th. We went to the pet store with the pleco in a bag w/water on the 18th. I asked to have the water tested but the employee said he couldnt because i put the dead fish in the same bag as the water. He said pleco's die often and i thought it might have been because it was a new tank and there was no algae for him to eat. I then opted for the red tail black shark. After the pleco died is when I got online and really started doing some research. I started researching about "the cycle" and finally realized i needed a water testing kit.

I purchased the API master test kit and here are my results from dec22-dec25

12/22 - temp:74 ph:7.7 ammo:3 nitrItes:.5 nitrAtes:5
12/23 - temp:74 ph:7.7 ammo:2 nitrItes:.75 nitrAtes:5
12/24 - temp:74 ph:7.7 ammo:4 nitrItes:.5 nitrAtes:5
12/25 - temp:73 ph:7.7 ammo:4 nitrItes:.5 nitrAtes:5

I have been doing 3gal PWC's every night and using prime to treat the water.

I am currently running a tetra whisper 40 but i have a fluval c4 coming on thursday i will run simultaneously until it catches up.

i think im on the right track, but i wanted to post this thread up and get some help along the way with the cycling process. Any help and advice is much appreciated

ill see if I can get some pics of my setup on here here in a minute..

When doing a fish in cycle you really need
To try your best to keep ammonia at .25 at all times.
 
When doing a fish in cycle you really need
To try your best to keep ammonia at .25 at all times.

Below .25ppm! Anything above that can cause burning to your fish! Also you can add the water and prime together into your tank. Water Conditioner doesnt take long to remove the chlorine. I put my into my tank then add the water right after.
 
thanks, I thought the ammo might be a little high for a fish in cycle, but they do seem to be tolerating it thus far. One issue i have right now is i only have 2 3gal buckets. One i use to put water in to remove chlorine and the other is to remove the water from the tank. how big of a no no is adding tap water with prime immediately? or can I reduce the time the water sits to 12hrs?

I did do a little research on the shark and I know the footprint of my tank is too small for him. he's at about 2-2.5in right now and is very content with swimming around the castle. He isn't bothering any of the other tank mates (yet). I have been looking at the 50-55 gal tanks, is 36in long big enough for him? I think I would rather have a wider tank as opposed to a longer one, are there any benefits to a longer tank?

thanks again!

There is no benefit to a long tank other then it looks nice surface are and footprint are a lot more important than how long and tall it is IMO. Unless you want an Oscar or discus then you need the height.
 
I get reverse osmosis water because my tap is liquid rock. Another option is to get a painters bucket or two at home depot or walmart. One takes about 5 gallons or so.
For the red tail I'd use a min. Of 48 inches in length and 60 gallons. But would prefer 100 gallon tank.
 
ok heres an update...

Ive replaced 10gal of water so far today.

I did a 3gal PWC->3gal PWC->4gal PWC all about 2.5hrs apart. The first water change had been sitting out 12-14hrs to de-chlorinate. All PWC's had prime added

here are my water testing results after 10gal pwc

temp:74
ph:7.6 (down 0.1)
ammo:2ppm (down 2ppm)
nitrIte:0.25ppm (down 0.25
nitrAte:5ppm (same)

I am going to do at-least one more 4gal PWC tonight, should I do any more than that?

edit:
About the larger tank size, Ive been looking at the 50-60gal as i mentioned before. As far as foot print goes ive seen a couple sizes
48x13(approx) = 624sq.in. of footspace area
and
36x15=540sq.in.

obviously the 48x13 is the better choice because it has more area.

now lets say were housing a red tail shark still and the choices are:
48x13=624sq.in
and
36x17=612sq.in.

will the red tail like the longer one because its a longer swim distance or does it not matter since the area is about the same?

the reason i ask is i have one wall big enough for a 50-60gal but it would give me more flexability to utilize the extra space along the wall if i could find approx a 36x17-18. The well being of the shark is most important though
 
That sounds better. You can get bacteria in a bottle to help start it. The one I used was Nite Out II.
 
update:

changed 4gal last night before bed and another 4gal this morning

the readings 1hr later are:

temp:73
ph:7.6 (same)
ammo:1.5ppm (down .5ppm)
nitrIte:0.25ppm (same)
nitrAte:4ppm (down 1ppm)


What affect does water temp have on cycling? im keeping the house at 74 so my water temp is a steady 73-74. I have an eheim jager heater coming today so is there a preferred temp for cycling with fish in?
 
update:

changed 4gal last night before bed and another 4gal this morning

the readings 1hr later are:

temp:73
ph:7.6 (same)
ammo:1.5ppm (down .5ppm)
nitrIte:0.25ppm (same)
nitrAte:4ppm (down 1ppm)

What affect does water temp have on cycling? im keeping the house at 74 so my water temp is a steady 73-74. I have an eheim jager heater coming today so is there a preferred temp for cycling with fish in?

You need to be doing a larger water change, those ammonia levels are toxic to your fish. You need to have a heater in your tank, if you have tropical fish they need around 78 degree water temp.
 
since this morning i have replaced another 12gal of water (over 50% water change on the day)

test results are as follows:

temp:76 (working its way to 78)
ph: 7.6 (same)
ammo: 1ppm (down .5ppm)
nitrIte: 0ppm (down .25)
nitrAte: ~2ppm (down 2ppm)

I added the eheim jager heater as well as the fluval c4 power filter today. the filter is running simultaneously with the old one
 
You don't have to let water sit before putting it in the tank. As long as you have prime in your good to go. The important thing is to get the temp close to the tanks temp. So remove say 15 gals. Dose prime for total tank volume. And 15 gals fresh equal temp water back. Boom done.
 
You don't have to let water sit before putting it in the tank. As long as you have prime in your good to go. The important thing is to get the temp close to the tanks temp. So remove say 15 gals. Dose prime for total tank volume. And 15 gals fresh equal temp water back. Boom done.

And turn off your heater and filter! But yes I'd you want to you can even dose the exact amount of water when you put it into the bucket but ammonia should be below .25ppm if it is at 2ppm you need to do 3, 50% water changes at least to get it to .25ppm. After the first 50% it will be around 1 and the second will bring it to .50 and the third will be .25ppm. What are you using to test your water test strips or liquid kit?
 
im using the api master test kit (liquid)

i just pulled out 10gal and retested

temp:82 (turned the heater down!)
ph: 7.6 (same)
ammo: .75ppm (down .25ppm)
nitrIte: .25ppm (up .25?)
nitrAte: ~4ppm (up 2ppm?)

im going to pull 15gal out now and retest
 
ok pulled 15gal out

temp:8o (turned the heater down!)
ph: 7.6 (same)
ammo: .50ppm (down .25ppm)
nitrIte: .25ppm (same)
nitrAte: ~3ppm (down 1ppm)
 
Keep doing those water changes! Test three times daily and if you levels are good do a water change. It might be best to try and rehome your fish while you Finish with a fishless cycle.
 

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