Need your opinions guys/gals :D plz

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mudraker said:
I'd stick with the fluvals or eheims.

I don't have one of the Asian knockoffs, but I've read plenty online from folks that felt they just weren't as good once they had an eheim or fluval.

I bought a used 110 that came with marinelands a few months ago. They are really finicky compared to the ehiems I already have. Just replaced with Fluvals, and I'm really impressed with the newer ones.

I have an old fluval cannister that works well, but its also finicky and had a hard time beleiving posts on how great the new ones are, but it's true.
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I disagree. For example, the Aquatop CF-500 UV, it has nothing but good reviews, and someone from here made a review on it. They are experienced and said it was good. I don't think it's worth it to pay an extra 100$ for a name brand filter. Sure, the Fluval ones are very reliable and popular, but that doesn't mean knock-of brands aren't. Especially if they come with a 3 year warranty, than you can't really go wrong.
 
Guys I was wondering whether or not the fluval 405 has a way I can control the power of the intake and outtake power or if its always at max power ? Bc I saw users having the option of controlling the power ? I hope so i wouldn't mind to see how it will effect the results and equilibrium of the ammonia nitrate etc levels I hope so I'm going to check out the manual when I get home
 
AddictedtoFishNoW said:
Guys I was wondering whether or not the fluval 405 has a way I can control the power of the intake and outtake power or if its always at max power ? Bc I saw users having the option of controlling the power ? I hope so i wouldn't mind to see how it will effect the results and equilibrium of the ammonia nitrate etc levels I hope so I'm going to check out the manual when I get home
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You can reduce the power on a 405 up to 50%. More than that will strain the motor. Remember that a filter alone will not control ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte...that is controlled by the beneficial bacteria which the filter is just a habitat for. In fact, a poorly maintained canister filter becomes a main contributed of high nitrAte levels.
 
Also, I haven't really seen this addressed....what are your current water parameters? I saw you mention the nitrItes were extremely high, but I didn't see mention of how you're dealing with it (like pwc's). Remember, a filter alone, no matter how good, does NOT control toxins. Hopefully if you're changing out filters you're also moving over all your filter media.
 
eco23 said:
Also, I haven't really seen this addressed....what are your current water parameters? I saw you mention the nitrItes were extremely high, but I didn't see mention of how you're dealing with it (like pwc's). Remember, a filter alone, no matter how good, does NOT control toxins. Hopefully if you're changing out filters you're also moving over all your filter media.
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I believe he had a hob filter before that so I wasn't sure what to tell him about the media, so I was thinking maybe running both filters at the same time would help the canister build a bb colony
 
OBEYtheFISH said:
I believe he had a hob filter before that so I wasn't sure what to tell him about the media, so I was thinking maybe running both filters at the same time would help the canister build a bb colony
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The filter will eventually build BB over time as it is in the tank...but it will take several weeks before it can be run individually. The best bet would be moving the media into the canister if the HOB will be removed (sorry if that was already mentioned and I missed it). Obviously running both together is a great idea...you can't have too much filtration.

My concern was that it seems the OP thinks simply adding another filter will help with toxin levels...it won't. I think there was a quote about him being confused because he installed the new filter but no2 wasn't coming down. If the no2 level is at 1-2ppm...that's an emergency situation and water changes need to be done to reduce them and keep them there.
 
eco23 said:
The filter will eventually build BB over time as it is in the tank...but it will take several weeks before it can be run individually. The best bet would be moving the media into the canister if the HOB will be removed (sorry if that was already mentioned and I missed it). Obviously running both together is a great idea...you can't have too much filtration.

My concern was that it seems the OP thinks simply adding another filter will help with toxin levels...it won't. I think there was a quote about him being confused because he installed the new filter but no2 wasn't coming down. If the no2 level is at 1-2ppm...that's an emergency situation and water changes need to be done to reduce them and keep them there.
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If something like that happens, 50% water changes should be done frequently until the water chem. is stable again right?
 
I'm at .25 ppm nitrites yes i used the bb from the filter medias from my 3 hob filters 1 I returned and the other is in idle bc I don't think I want to add that sound whem I'm using my fluval..I'm very pleased with how It works and sounds. I just orderedthe spray bar and more media but I just was wondering how to adjust the power for the fluval
 
OBEYtheFISH said:
If something like that happens, 50% water changes should be done frequently until the water chem. is stable again right?
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The size and frequency of the water changes should be decided by a test kit, not necessarily the clock. For example, a 50% water change reduces toxins by a half, a 25% pwc by a quarter, etc... The goal we shoot for in a fish-in cycling tank is to keep ammonia and nitrIte at or below .25ppm at all times. So if the level is 2ppm...a 50% change will bring it down to 1ppm which is still very unsafe. Personally at that level I'd do a 75% change (with temp matched, conditioned water)...then wait 20 minutes or so for the water to circulate and do another large pwc (50%+).

There's a lot of variables which decide how quickly toxins are spiking. Things like bio-load, phase of the cycle, how much the fish are fed, how well the tank is cleaned, etc...so there really isn't a set time to change...you should always let your test kit dictate when it's time to change water.

The only saving grace is if you're using a water conditioner like Seachem Prime which temporarily neutralizes ammonia and nitrIte. I believe they'll detoxify up to 1ppm for 24-36 hours...but that still requires daily water changes to re-dose it and make it effective again. It's also never a good idea to put all your faith in a bottle when you've got a faucet of clean water which can remove the toxins in a natural way. Prime really is a safeguard to buy your fish time between water changes.

Here's a good article to check out which covers how to deal with toxin spikes and fish-in cycling-
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...g-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html

* You adjust the flow on the Aqua-stop valve of the Fluval...but I'd keep it full power on a tank your size.
 
eco23 said:
The size and frequency of the water changes should be decided by a test kit, not necessarily the clock. For example, a 50% water change reduces toxins by a half, a 25% pwc by a quarter, etc... The goal we shoot for in a fish-in cycling tank is to keep ammonia and nitrIte at or below .25ppm at all times. So if the level is 2ppm...a 50% change will bring it down to 1ppm which is still very unsafe. Personally at that level I'd do a 75% change (with temp matched, conditioned water)...then wait 20 minutes or so for the water to circulate and do another large pwc (50%+).

There's a lot of variables which decide how quickly toxins are spiking. Things like bio-load, phase of the cycle, how much the fish are fed, how well the tank is cleaned, etc...so there really isn't a set time to change...you should always let your test kit dictate when it's time to change water.

The only saving grace is if you're using a water conditioner like Seachem Prime which temporarily neutralizes ammonia and nitrIte. I believe they'll detoxify up to 1ppm for 24-36 hours...but that still requires daily water changes to re-dose it and make it effective again. It's also never a good idea to put all your faith in a bottle when you've got a faucet of clean water which can remove the toxins in a natural way. Prime really is a safeguard to buy your fish time between water changes.

Here's a good article to check out which covers how to deal with toxin spikes and fish-in cycling-
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articles/articles/124/2/-I-just-learned-about-cycling-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html

* You adjust the flow on the Aqua-stop valve of the Fluval...but I'd keep it full power on a tank your size.
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Thanks for the info
I'm also still getting used to the test kit use :facepalm:
 
Just added the spray bar looks great..Much better then the normal outflow nozzle just wish it was jet black so it would be hard to see ..guys best place to buy a lamp bulb at petsmart or home depot
 
AddictedtoFishNoW said:
Just added the spray bar looks great..Much better then the normal outflow nozzle just wish it was jet black so it would be hard to see ..guys best place to buy a lamp bulb at petsmart or home depot
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If it fits & its cheaper
 
Guys you should invest in a spray bar if ya'll have a canister..I have it setup along the top back side of my tank pointing towards to surface rotated 45 degrees so I create agitation. And I have air stone pumping the cichlids love It
 
AddictedtoFishNoW said:
Guys you should invest in a spray bar if ya'll have a canister..I have it setup along the top back side of my tank pointing towards to surface rotated 45 degrees so I create agitation. And I have air stone pumping the cichlids love It
Click to expand...

Add pics!
(15 char.)
 
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