New to this and screwed up already!

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I ordered one of the active sponges and will be heading to get an air pump shortly. I'm going to place it on the opposite side from the filter. Water change will be done then.

Here's what it looks like now.
 

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Coco, this is what the filter looks like up and running. There is a strong magnet in the sponge and one on the outside of the the hold it in place.
 

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Coco1019 said:
I ordered one of the active sponges and will be heading to get an air pump shortly. I'm going to place it on the opposite side from the filter. Water change will be done then.

Here's what it looks like now.

Your tank looks great! My 30 is just in my husband and I's room a the moment, I just find myself staring at the fish anyways lol as long as it keeps ammonia and nitrite eaten away and my fish healthy doesnt really matter to me what it looks like! have an air pump from my 10g, would that work with the sponge filter or do I need a pump for more gallons?
 
Your tank looks great! My 30 is just in my husband and I's room a the moment, I just find myself staring at the fish anyways lol as long as it keeps ammonia and nitrite eaten away and my fish healthy doesnt really matter to me what it looks like! have an air pump from my 10g, would that work with the sponge filter or do I need a pump for more gallons?

That pump should do the job. They (Angles plus) say moderate bubbles. I have the sponge filter, air wand and fry hatchery all on a Marina 100 pump.
 
I did the change and set up the air pump with an airstone under the lava rock.

They are loving the bubbles. I'm hoping that I won't loss a lot of my fish.
 
I'd wait off till you have perfect params before getting sensitive fish like neons
 
Bobjoefredsky said:
I'd wait off till you have perfect params before getting sensitive fish like neons

Definitely. I'm not planning on adding anything until it's cycles and things have been stable for a few months.

Is there a better option than neons? I want something that is active and doesn't hide so that my kids can enjoy them and obviously something that will go with the guppies that hopefully survive.
 
what about 4-5 kuhli loach eels they are awsome they are realy shy unless you have a bunch of them its the only fish thats made people fully stop and watch it eats micro foods such as crushed flakes and alge even has a go at my BN alge chips
 
lamby said:
what about 4-5 kuhli loach eels they are awsome they are realy shy unless you have a bunch of them its the only fish thats made people fully stop and watch it eats micro foods such as crushed flakes and alge even has a go at my BN alge chips

I read up on them just a bit and it seems like they are nocturnal and like to hide. I'm not sure that would be the best fit for our family....mainly the kids.
 
Can someone explain to me in stupid people terms what my test readings should show after a 50% water change?

I understand the process a lot more since visiting this site and reading the links and articles. But, I want to know more specifics - numbers wise.

For example, I did a change around 5pm and tested about 30 minutes ago (so about 7 hours later). Everything was basically the same, the pH dropped a tiny bit (the city's water is acidic) and, ammonia still at .5, nitrites at 0 but the nitrates raised to 5.

Is that usually what happens that long after a change? Is it usually more? Less? I know 5 is still okay, but knowledge is power.
 
if your having water problems do more water changes nitrates arnt that bad just keep them under 20.

ph depends on the fish you want in most cichlids like it around 7-8.4
ammonia should be at 0ppm but will jump when you filter is cycling
nitrite is the same as ammonia its very bad for fish but will jump during cycle
and last but not least nitrate which is what live plants and bio bacteria eat but try and keep it under 20 as if can be toxic in high doses

il see if i can find this diagram that explained it in simple terms
and some one correct me if im wrong
 
if your having water problems do more water changes nitrates arnt that bad just keep them under 20.

ph depends on the fish you want in most cichlids like it around 7-8.4
ammonia should be at 0ppm but will jump when you filter is cycling
nitrite is the same as ammonia its very bad for fish but will jump during cycle
and last but not least nitrate which is what live plants and bio bacteria eat but try and keep it under 20 as if can be toxic in high doses

il see if i can find this diagram that explained it in simple terms
and some one correct me if im wrong

Sounds right to me as this is what I followed during my cycles. Your tank is getting there, just keep testing and changing water as needed.
 
Coco this is what you should see over the coarse of a cycle. At first.... Nothing. Amm 0 nit 0 nitrate 0. Then you will see your Amm start to spike( this is why your doing water changes. To keep Amm at reasonable lvl) next you will see Amm dropping and nit rise( more water changes) then your nit will start to drop and your nitrate will rise. You will all ways have nitrates but you want to keep them under 40ppm max. When you see this happen you tank will be cycled. Then it just weekly water change to help keep nitrate in check.
 
Yeah, I understand the process now, but needed something more visual. Something like this if it's accurate.
 

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Oh, and last night when I did my readings, I was pretty convinced that I was going to wake up to 3 dead guppies. They were just sitting on the bottom, barely moving their fins and kind of tilting toward their back fin. I watched them for a while certain they were going to fishie heaven. I decided to turn the air pump off thinking maybe it just over stressed them.

This morning when I went to feed and count, they are up and perky as ever and ate well, no gasping or anything.

Is that normal? Or we're they possible just exhausted?

ETA: I just got out the camera and was able to get some close-ups. I think I've blinded 2 of my fish. :( Their eyes are red. One is supposed to be a platinum but is turning Bright yellow and the other is a red female. I'm not sure if they were like that before. They all have iridescent patches on their gills. Again, not sure if that was there before.
 
I'm uploading some (blurry, but should get the job done) pics to my Dropbox account. You can see the red eyes in them as well as the patches.

I'm sorry for so many questions. I'm just trying to improve things as much as I can since I started off on the wrong foot. :nono:
 
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