roundar said:
The burden of proof is on you my friend. I don't know a single person who says that buckets won't work. What I see is people making unsubstantiated claims that python-method is unsafe.
Here is a very brief and extremely rough draft of an article I have been working on, the first bit is boring old stuff but might be worth s read hopefully it fits
and yes I know I have horrible first draft punctuation and paragraphing lol it was just ideas thrown down so the order by times makes absolutely no sense at all.
Aged water vs Straight From Tap
This is a discussion article about both methods of changing aquarium water with a bias towards aging water before using it to do a partial water change.
Aged tap water is water that is poured from the tap and put into a holding container for at least 24 hours to gas off (burn off) chlorine and C02 thru oxygen exchange at the surface and evaporation, it is usually agitated with a water pump or an airstone and heated to the proper temperature using an aquarium heater. This causes the water to be perfect temperature and stable pH for use in an aquarium. It will however not get rid of Chlorimide which some municipal water supplies use to rid of bacteria and parasites. To cure this the use of a commercial de-chlorinator is needed, these can also contain chemicals to add a stress coat to your fish and rid of any traces of heavy metals which can harm fish. This makes it safe to be used as change water in your aquarium. Using this method causes as little water parameter swings as possible which causes stress in fish, including pH, temperature, general hardness, carbonate hardness, ammonia, nitrogen compounds, phosphates, and an assortment of trace elements. Even if a compound is bad such as ammonia if it is reduced dramatically can cause stress to a fish because they slowly started to adapt to these water conditions.
A fish in the wild would not be subjected to these sudden changes as in an aquarium with a small water volume. Lakes, streams, rivers, oceans ect. Have large volumes of water and any changes are slow and gradual, they change minimally from day to day and most not a great deal from season to season in alot of the parts of the world, the surface of bodies of water take the most significant changes but not alot of fish live soley on the surface, but some do. All fish in the wild have adapted to these routines over thousands of years and have become accustom to these swings and in most species is nessicary for breeding and life cycles.
But when a fish is put in captivity either straight from it's natural habitat or from breeders it is in an unnatural setting and the aquarist will realistically never be able to match these conditions and seasonal changes in such a way to not make it harmful, not to mention a tank bred fish hasn't ever been subjected to the wild and will not do good thrown back into the wild at first, but like all will adapt once again because it is perfectly controlled and slow changes compliments of mother nature. So it is easier for an aquarist and the fish to try and keep the most stable conditions possible all year round.
This is why aging tap water is a useful tool in an aquarists toolkit to try and keep a stable environment for their fish to adapt to even if it is out of their natural range.
Using water straight from the tap even if treated with a de-chlorinator will change the parameters of the water in your aquarium when you go to do a patrician water change. An aquarium over time will naturally build up acids in the water to push it towards acidic on the pH scale. Both methods will change this slight ph drop closer back to what the source water is naturally, this is why smaller more frequent water changes will be better rather then larger less frequent water changes with either method that is used. Water that comes naturally out of your tap will often have co2 which makes water acidic and when it is put in an aquarium will fairly drastically go from acidic to alkaline in a matter of hours because an aquarium is usually well vented and has a good oxygen exchange to keep the fish healthy and alive. I've personally seen water go from a ph of 6.1 to 7.3 in under 2 hours well aerated this rapid of z swing will aid in stressing your fish which is not helpful when trying to keep a healthy immune system. An aquarium also will naturally evaporate over time concentrating water hardness and if topped off and evaporated many times will become hard over time, then when a water change is performed it will "thin" out the dissolved salts and this rapid change in water hardness is just as bad if not worse for a fish.There is no difference between the two methods in this effect but frequency of water changes will affect it greatly, small and frequent is the best option for everything in most cases. It is also hard to match the exact temperature of water that comes out of your tap compared to having it pre heated when using the aging process. Having change water about a half degree warmer is always better then a half degree colder fish respond better to a bit warmer then colder temperature change.
When adding water straight from the tap to your tank via a water changing devise such as a python it is also more difficult to add de-chlorinator or anything else you may be trying to add to your change water to affect water parameters. When doing so you have to add full volume of de-chlorinator to the aquarium then add the water in using far more chemicals and subjecting your fish and beneficial bacteria to a strong chemical dose every water change along with a temporary dose of chlorine if present in tap water which will put a strain on your bacteria colonies, chlorine is designed to kill bacteria and in an aquarium is an undesired effect. Compared to pretreating and aging water before use in water changes the chlorine never has a chance to touch the bacteria, also less de-chlorinator is needed because only have to treat the water used for a PWC and not the entire tank.
Say if you do a %50 water change in a 20 gallon, your changing out 10 gallons of water. If you take it straight from the tap which has a ph of 6.3, when aged a ph of 7.1. Say You let your aquarium go a little past it's water change date because of work and a nagging wife wanting you to fix things around thr house and didn't have time. You checked the ph of your tank and acids built up a bit and the reading was 6.8 if you did your normal water change your aquarium would instantly drop to around 6.55, then over the next few hours it would rise to around 7ph, the original was really 7.1 base, 6.8 in tank and 6.3 outta tap so really you just subjected your fish to technically 3 different ph's bouncing back and forth over a short time for a fish. If you did this every water change for years and it will be different all the time because tap water changes from season to season, something eventually will go wrong down the road if nothing a shorter life span, nature doesn't bounce around that much or that quickly it's always slow and gradual. Then add in a miscalculation of temperature because it's the winter time and cold in your house so your skin is cold so the water feels warm, feeling of water temperature all depends if your cold or hot feeling and skin temperature. So that's not accurate so your tank temperature will bounce instantly around to half as much of the difference you are putting in. Also coupled with all the trace element changes, water hardness (which can kill) ,carbonate hardness which will stress if more then 20mg/L per 24 hours, changed instantly. Even a fish used to ammonia and nitrates in the aquarium get a little stress from going to instantly clean water, which is mind blowing if you think about it, but then really makes sense because fish are naturally sensitive due to the stable conditions they come from, some are more equipped to handle quick changes but not alot that are commonly kept, due to inbreeding many are becoming weaker (neon tetra for instance) hardiest little fish through the 80's I even had some as a kid and knew nothing about aquariums and they were perfectly happy and healthy, never even knew about proper water changeing and never even seen an ammonia test only used a ph test twice, now you can barely get them home before one is looking stressed out.
Just using water straight from the tap is most defiantly the easier route to go but is it really worth it? There are easy ways to age water if you get creative, I saw one buddy have what had to be a 1000 gal vat in his basement with a pump in it with a hose coming up to his living room to use for water changes, it doesn't need to be the single bucket with an airstone and heater at a time there are many options. Most of it is personal preference and situation, if your water is the same or really close to what it is aged I'd say "give er son" it will still chemically not be the same as aged because more often then not it came from underground and isn't aged surface water like a lake or river but will be close with small frequent water changes, a fish will handle this no problem, but any chlorine, ph,temp change will not help you any by any means. You wouldnt go to your local fish store buy a fish and come home and dump it in your aquarium water and all with no acclimation would you, dumping in water from the tap isn't that far off. But to his/her own I guess this is purely my opinion and experience from trial and error from the past 20 years of staring into the captivating world in which we call our hobby.
This is a first quick draught and suggestions and addictions are more then welcome, I am by no means an article author ad you can tell from my paragraphs haha, this will be posted for constructive criticism and revised and edited.