So with a difference of $60, it sounds like you've been much happier with the GLA regulator set over the truly DIY HomeDepot "collection." May I ask how quickly you run through 20oz of CO2 with your 12 gallon long?
Seeking constructive criticism on my planted tank plan
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yeah i have two of the aquatek mini regulators. Much better when they were $80. At their current price, for not much more, I'd get the GLA atomic one Bill has. I'm boycotting aquatek for jacking up prices! Haha
Billbug68
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yes, I am much happier with the investment. I can set it and forget it. It turns itself on and off with the addition of a cheap timer, and I never have to adjust the needle valve like I did with the DIY on almost a daily basis. I'm not sure how long it lasts yet, as I've just recently switched a few weeks ago. But running 24/7 before would last about a month, maybe 3 weeks. I have two bottles, so when one runs out I've always got an extra filled ready to go.
Two tanks definitely sounds like a good idea. I'll feel better knowing all the parts are made to go with one another as well as being under such a long warranty too (with Murphy's Law and all).
@Brian, I guess that settles it then
MMantelli
Aquarium Advice Addict
I actually just had this conversation with someone on here the other day about glut (excel) and shrimp. I just don't remember who it was I think it was aqua_chem. Anyways as long as your following the reccomended dosage the shrimp will be fine bit if for some reason you need to double or tripple the dose try to spread it out to 2 dosings a day instead of all at once. The one who told me said they did notice the shrimp were agitated when they did more than a double dose. I have the thread on here ill post the link in an edit in just a min.
Edit: here it is. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f129/breeding-shrimp-while-using-glut-and-ferts-262207.html
Oh and by the way I like your plan.
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THANKS for the link (and the props). I'm willing to get into pressurized CO2 so long as I can balance out the light I'm going to use. But until that's set up, Excel will have to suffice - along with PPS. It's comforting to know I won't be making their lives harder with regular-sized doses.
The plan came from scanning Pinterest (of all places) for pics of aquascaped tanks. I can't wait for next week when my tank gets here. Any thoughts on whether 7000 on the Fuge light will still be too high?
The plan came from scanning Pinterest (of all places) for pics of aquascaped tanks. I can't wait for next week when my tank gets here. Any thoughts on whether 7000 on the Fuge light will still be too high?
MMantelli
Aquarium Advice Addict
I don't know much about the fuge light are you able to get par ratings for it anywhere online that do not come from the manufacturer like "~x"par@6" and "~x"par@24" or even a graph that gives you an idea of your lighting at a wide range of depths.
I don't have independent PAR ratings yet. But this can be my project over the weekend. Thanks for the helpful direction, MM.
MMantelli
Aquarium Advice Addict
No problem.
Alright, there might be a snag with the Finnex FugeRay light. I found the PAR data and have made some estimates on what PAR will be at "ground level" on the substrate. Here is the PAR data:
The 12gL is about 9.5 inches deep. I've been planning on 2.5" of substrate, which puts me at 7" deep of water. I'll have another 2" between water level and the light. So: 9" at the deepest. According to the chart, I'll be around 100 PAR at the bottom, rising to 135 or so at the surface. I'm going to have an algae city in my tank, aren't I? Might a weekly dose of Excel help prevent that, or will a weaker light be best?
The 12gL is about 9.5 inches deep. I've been planning on 2.5" of substrate, which puts me at 7" deep of water. I'll have another 2" between water level and the light. So: 9" at the deepest. According to the chart, I'll be around 100 PAR at the bottom, rising to 135 or so at the surface. I'm going to have an algae city in my tank, aren't I? Might a weekly dose of Excel help prevent that, or will a weaker light be best?
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
I think you'll be fine with a fugeray. You can always reduce photoperiod to 6 to 7 hours if algae occurs. Using window screen also works to reduce intensity. Plus regular dosing, as you mentioned, of excel will play a role at keeping algae at bay.
Another option if you want lower light is to consider getting the new Current Satellite LED + as i did. It's a neat LED fixture with 6,500k and RGB diodes. It comes with a wireless remote to control color output and intensity.
Another option if you want lower light is to consider getting the new Current Satellite LED + as i did. It's a neat LED fixture with 6,500k and RGB diodes. It comes with a wireless remote to control color output and intensity.
Billbug68
Aquarium Advice Addict
Just as a note, the par tests are usually done through air, not water, so I don't know what kind of reduction in par water makes, but the levels will be a little lower.
MMantelli
Aquarium Advice Addict
Really??? So I might not be at as much light as I thought with my tank then. That sucks....I guess I'm gonna have to add either a sho CFL or metal halide then.
You're right. The tests have a disclaimer speaking to that. This is good news (sorry MM) since I'd like slightly lower levels, but still high enough to see decent carpeting on the bottom.
All this talk about lighting has me thinking about trimming. The "grasses" seem clear enough. How do you suggest trimming something like java moss (which I'm only using in a small quantity for accent around the base of my driftwood)?
MMantelli
Aquarium Advice Addict
It's ok not your fault but it does give me another fun project.
aqua_chem
Aquarium Advice Addict
Measurements taken in air will be less than measurements taken with water. The water actually acts like a lens, refracting some of it back into the tank.
MMantelli
Aquarium Advice Addict
But doesn't water suck up light I know when im diving within a few feet my buddies red fins turn purple. (Not trying to argue trying to learn)
aqua_chem
Aquarium Advice Addict
Some of the longer wavelength light will be absorbed by the water, but the magnifying effect more than makes up for it.
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Aqua_Chem is right. I've read the same thing from a trusted source. Can't remember where exactly, otherwise I'd link to it for reference.
But most white "daylight" LED fixtures, like Finnex Ray 2 or Fugeray, use blue diodes with a yellow phosphor to emit white light. Thats why the spectral graph for finnex is so heavy in blue spectrum. Blue can penetrate the deepest in water and is the last to be naturally filtered out. That's why these LEDs are high in PAR. That's also why when you SCUBA (as i do too), will notice everything appears blue and drab at depths until you use a flashlight or take pictures with a flash. Aquariums aren't usually deep enough to have a significant impact on the blue spectrum (reds are another story).
But most white "daylight" LED fixtures, like Finnex Ray 2 or Fugeray, use blue diodes with a yellow phosphor to emit white light. Thats why the spectral graph for finnex is so heavy in blue spectrum. Blue can penetrate the deepest in water and is the last to be naturally filtered out. That's why these LEDs are high in PAR. That's also why when you SCUBA (as i do too), will notice everything appears blue and drab at depths until you use a flashlight or take pictures with a flash. Aquariums aren't usually deep enough to have a significant impact on the blue spectrum (reds are another story).
Billbug68
Aquarium Advice Addict
Good to know man! Thanks for that info!
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