Tell Me What Is Wrong With My Water.

[lamthuyduong]

Help.

 

[mattrox]

Water Changes.

 

[mattrox]

Big ones.

 

[BrianNY]

I don't think water changes are going to solve this problem. That pea soup algae is unicellular and proliferates very quickly. Whatever water is changed will just promote more of the same.

I think this problem is caused by too much light, not enough CO2, and poor nutrients.

Let's see if malkore will confirm this..... I would run a diatom filter on the tank until clear or blackout the tank for 3 days. You also need to check your CO2 level as well nitrates and phosphates. I'm guessing the CO2 and nitrates are low and the phosphates are high.

Be patient lamthuyduong (cool name). I know you want to grow glosso and I think that requires alot of patience.

 

[Cafe Jeff]

I agree.
From what I see, it does look like too much light and too many nutrients in the water.
A picture may be worth a thousand words, but is it possible to post a few words about your set up. Jeff

 

[Guest]

WOW 8O

If you know someone that owns a diatom filter. Try and borrow it from them.

As mentioned, it looks like a nutrient inbalance and possibly to much light.

Whats your PH, KH, Nitra and Phos reading in the tank? Injecting CO2? How many WPG is your lighting and how long you running them? Whats your fert regimine??

Does anyone know if a UV filter would clean up green water?

Your water para's would be a big help. Good luck.

 

[lamthuyduong]

Alright guys, here are the parameters:

pH- somewhere around 6.8 and 7
KH- 7 degrees
Phosphate- somewhere between 1 and 2ppm
Nitrate- somewhere between 5ppm
Temperature- around 77 farenheit

I have 72 watts of AHSupply's Bright Kit over a 10 gallon. I just ordered a pressurized co2 system, so it should be coming next week, maybe around Wednesday. Currently, i'm running a diy yeast co2 system. I dose 10ppm of nitrate (potassium nitrate), 1ppm of phosphate(mono potassium phosphate), 5ml of Flourish Comprehensive supplement at water change. 50% water change.

 

[melissa1977]

I am not a specialist yet but I had the same problem couple of weeks ago...

I drop down the number of hours the light was on from 12 hours to 10 1/2 and my problem was solve.

Hopefully this help.

 

[Corty]

Cutting down on the light fixed the problem for me. Water changes didn't seem to help, not even for a few minutes.

 

[BrianNY]

IMO 4 wpg would be considered a high light tank. 7.2 wpg is off the chart. I'd be very surprised if this wasn't the cause. How many hours per day is the light left on?

 

[Cafe Jeff]

I have 72 watts of AHSupply's Bright Kit over a 10 gallon. I just ordered a pressurized co2 system, so it should be coming next week, maybe around Wednesday. Currently, i'm running a diy yeast co2 system. I dose 10ppm of nitrate (potassium nitrate), 1ppm of phosphate(mono potassium phosphate), 5ml of Flourish Comprehensive supplement at water change. 50% water change.[/quote]

I think you have your answer. You built an algae scrubber! Jeff

 

[Mr Burns]

I have 62 watts of AHS lights on my 10gallon as well, along with pH-controlled pressurized CO2 giving me between right around 30ppm, and lots of plants. What kind of reactor/diffusor are you using? I think this is the most important part of CO2...effeciency is everything.

As for your green water problem, borrow or rent a diatom filter to clear it up for right now. With your lighting and water, it might be a good idea to get a small UV sterilizer like the tetra tec or turbo twist to kill the algae cells floating in the water. I was considering UV, but I've -never- had a problem with green water, and my algae is pretty minor mainly b/c it took forever to get my co2 running.

 

[Guest]

Keep in mind when you do a WC you want to test your water paras after the WC and dose ferts accordingly. Simply doing a certain amount of WC on a certain day of the week and doseing a certain amount of ferts every time is a disaster waiting to happen. If you over feed or lag a couple of days on a WC. Phos, Nitra and Amon can get out of hand.

Do Phos and Nitra test every couple of days till you get an idea of how your tank is consuming nutrients (feeding more or less, adding/removing fish, early or late WC's, changing CO2 amounts, changing amount of lighting as well as, other variables can change a tank). Generally you want Phos/Nitra ratio at 1:10. Phos between .5-1 and Nitra between 5 and 10.

Seeing how you already have the intense lighting. Try toning it down a bit. Maybe on 3-4 hours, off 2-4, on 3-4, off for the night.

Seeing how your dosing dry ferts. I'm assuming your using Chuck Gadds calculator. If not, I strong suggest you go to his web site and download his calculator. Also, reread Rex Griggs FAQ here on AA. Both of these gentlemen have been kind enough to share thier knowledge. Good luck

 

[djlen3]

Actually 7 watts/gal. in a 10 is not all that radical. That is, if there is a balance for that light, of heavy(very heavy) plant mass and balanced fertilization regimen.

Obviously, something is missing here.

Load up on plants(stuff the tank), get the P=1.5 and the N=15 - 20, and the green water goes away. Do this in conjunction with large water changes.

OR......cut your wattage in half and the situation will resolve itself faster, but still require more plant mass than what you've got.

Just my opinion...

Len

 

[lamthuyduong]

Thank You for the advices.