What disease is this?

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thetank

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
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I need an identification of this disease on my betta fish: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

And please, all I need is an identification of the disease. Below I'll paste some text with information I wrote on an another site (for hours!) and got no response. I hope someone here will help me identify what's wrong. I've spent so many hours on the internet trying to identify it but I keep going from one infection to another and can't come in conclusion which one it is.
Thanks.

"What is happening to my betta fish?
I've had this VeilTail Betta fish for 3 months in a 10 gallon tank and he was doing fine. On 23rd July I noticed some fin loss on his dorsal fin. It wasn't a fin rot. His dorsal fin started breaking up and only the 'threads' or 'sticks' of the fin remained, until there was no more fin to fall and the dorsal fin started to be shortened. Interestingly, no other fin was affected. This all happened on his dorsal fin only. However, after 2 days I moved him to a 1.5 gallon (6 liter) tank to check whether it was the water conditions or some decorations affecting the fin. I did water changes every single day and there was no improvement. The dorsal fin continued to 'eat up'. Now I started to see cotton wool forming on his dorsal fin. Also, where the dorsal fin and the body touch started to get red, so I added aquarium salt on 27th of July with daily water changes and addition of salt every day. The cotton wool was gone after 3 days but the dorsal fin as well as the other fins continued to get worse. So I went out and bought a medication 'against columnaris and fin decay'. It's ingredients are: Aqua purification 20 ml, Akriflavine 75 mg, malachite green- oxalate 10 mg (these are translated from Czech via Google Translate). I added this on the water (without salt) on 1st of August according to the instructions. His fins stopped 'eating up'. However, as of today he has some white marks on the head, and around the mouth. He also started developing that dorsal-to-body color change on other parts of the body (gills too) I'm on the 4th day of medication and I haven't done a water change. I do, however, remove the poo from the bottom every day (sometimes twice a day). I don't know whether I should do a water change. In the instructions it says do a water change after 10 days, but that would be too much, wouldn't it?
Also, I don't have any water testing kit. I wish we had here some testing kit but we don't. We have some individual testing kits but they're too expensive. Around $10 for a single element (ex. testing for ammonia 10%; testing for nitrates $10; etc.).
Below I'll leave some information about the conditions. Ask any question you need and I'll reply as soon as possible. I need to know what is happening to him or else I'll loose him soon. Thanks for your help.

MAIN TANK:
Size: 20 gallon (75 liter) tall; defined before as 10 gallon since it the base of it is roughly the same as a 10 gallon tank.
Temperature: 80 F (26.6 C).
Filtration: 80 Gallon Per Hour internal filter (300 Liter Per Hour).
Water conditions: Don't know (read above why). I just know that my water is a bit hard since I have calcium buildup on aquarium glass. I also have test strips (which I don't think they're accurate) and show a color of pH being 7.
Tank-mates: none. This betta was the only one in the whole tank.
Plants: It's a planted tank. It has Anacharis, Cryptocoryne (don't know which type), Java Fern, Amazon Sword, moss ball.
Water treatment: Yes. I use a conditioner to treat chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals. Also, a fertilizer for plants.
Maintenance: I did a water change every 3-4 days.

QUARANTINE TANK:
Size: 1.5 gallons (6 liter).
Temperature: no heater. Temperature stays between 78-80 F (25.5-26.6 C).
Filtration: no.
Plants and decorations: no. There's nothing in that tank.
Water treatment: with conditioner and medication for fin rot and columnaris.
Maintenance: Until August 1st I did 100% water change everyday. Since I added medication I haven't changed the water yet (please tell me if I should).
Fish behavior: he hasn't lost appetite. Still eats and still makes bubble nest. He comes to the front when I approach the tank. However, he's pretty lethargic (I'm guessing since he doesn't have much to do there?)

P.S. The water is yellow from the medication.

I apologize if my English wasn't good."
 
Hi, welcome to the forum and sad news in your fish. It all reads as a bacterial infection as you had suspected. Are you able to source fish antibiotics like medicated feed or furan 2 / triple sulpha?

Just checking but no flashing or rubbing that might indicate parasites?

The acriflavine and malachite green can work but I've found a low success rate. If it is spreading even with treatment I would go for something stronger.

Here in Australia meds are limited. Salt dips at sea water strength have been reported to be useful. Personally I have found potassium permanganate quite effective while hydrogen peroxide has worked for others.

I have had very little success in curing if other conditions are not good eg if ammonia is there or elevated temperatures.
 
Hi, welcome to the forum and sad news in your fish. It all reads as a bacterial infection as you had suspected. Are you able to source fish antibiotics like medicated feed or furan 2 / triple sulpha?

Just checking but no flashing or rubbing that might indicate parasites?

The acriflavine and malachite green can work but I've found a low success rate. If it is spreading even with treatment I would go for something stronger.

Here in Australia meds are limited. Salt dips at sea water strength have been reported to be useful. Personally I have found potassium permanganate quite effective while hydrogen peroxide has worked for others.

I have had very little success in curing if other conditions are not good eg if ammonia is there or elevated temperatures.

Hello and thank you for replying.
The mouth rotting is getting worse and I see him rubbing his mouth against the walls, but not his body. I haven't seen any parasites on his body.
I have an option to use a product that includes gentian violet. Is that a stronger solution than akriflavine?
The temperature is at 24 C (75 F) for stopping the disease to spread rapidly and he's in a quarantine tank with daily water changes.
 
The problem is the infection is internal as well in his blood and acriflavine is a anteseptic.
This infection is probably now in his body inside he needs a proper antibiotic. I think it may be too late but in the future i could reccomend some antibiotics for future use
maracyn-2
kanamycin
oxytetracycline
for just wounds, acriflavine, furan2 green, and methylene blue work well for minor wounds that get infected.
But the methylene blue will stain and kill off Good bacteria, but is absolutelely the best for the job at hand.
 
The problem is the infection is internal as well in his blood and acriflavine is a anteseptic.
This infection is probably now in his body inside he needs a proper antibiotic. I think it may be too late but in the future i could reccomend some antibiotics for future use
maracyn-2
kanamycin
oxytetracycline
for just wounds, acriflavine, furan2 green, and methylene blue work well for minor wounds that get infected.
But the methylene blue will stain and kill off Good bacteria, but is absolutelely the best for the job at hand.

What about gentian violet? Is it stronger than akriflavine?
 
It's an interesting question. I've never tried this one. I looked it up and purely as a thought wasn't sure it would be more effective (just on a quick look though). I pre-order meds off ebay now as they generally keep for a few years. Lately, the best non-antibiotic I have found for external infections is the potassium permanganate (Australia not having very many choices though).
 
Terramycin (oxytetracycline) keeps for an infinate time.
A serious fish breeder might make the trip to the vet to get his/her hands on a sizeable amount of this great synthetic antibiotic.
 
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