yikes, help please!

[jdsunflower]

I'm struggling to get my water parameters stable, and am having trouble reading my NH3/NH4 results. Not sure if I have the wrong card, of all things!!
My previous tester was a single bottle AP ammonia test--card ranged from 0 to 7 or so, with lowest being invisible reading, and highest colour light tangerine coloured.
With my new kit, there are 2 bottles, and I getting an instant reading equivalent to at least '2 to 3' instantly, and after 5 minutes, we're talking GREEN, which isn't on my card. And this is tap water (problem was I was detecting ammonia in my tank, and doing mega water changes with no result until I finally tested my tap water--recent crash, lost rasboras and snail, catfish hanging on).
I have no idea how this might be happening--and if anyone has this kit, please advise. Unfortunately, I am unable to get out to a store even for emergencies today and will have to manage on my own with what I have.

 

[neilanh]

Chloramines in tap water can sometimes register as ammonia on these hobby grade test kits. If you truelly have the AP kit, I'm not sure you're looking at the right card. The AP 2 part test kit for ammonia is 8 drops of bottle 1, 8 drops of bottle 2, shake, then let sit for 5 minutes. Readings range from 0ppm is a bright yellow color, to 8.0ppm which is a dark, dark green color.

Once you confirm you're doing the test right, take out some water from your tap and let it sit for 24 hours and then test it.

It's also possible you have a bad or expired kit. Take some water to your LFS and have them test to confirm your results.

 

[jdsunflower]

yellow vs light green reading...

Thanks for your reply,
Yes,
that is indeed the test, and the kit is new (2 months), with batch number equivalent to those kits in the store when I was there yesterday (looking for plants--none avail).
The problem is that the card I have is the one I was using with my old kit (one bottle only), where I think I've kept the wrong card o). Well at least I know a dark green is possible. Mine never read that green, more like an apple green (is that serious?), but now with 50% water change again I seem to be at 2 (tap equivalent)--light yellow. I've put all the plants I have into my tank, hoping that they will help to work with any ammonia or ammonium that's there. I think I'll stop changing the water, if the tap is at 2.
What is the chloramine? (oh, duh, that thing I've been neutralizing forever...should I add more neutralizer?).
Another thing, I'm sticking with keeping my pH under control (7.2 or so), as my reading states that ammonia is more dangerous (present, somehow?) at higher pH...
For anyone having similar issues there is an interesting article at www.novalek.com/kordon/articles/KPD62.htm...
Never a dull moment when you're new to this hobby!

 

[Purrbox]

Chlorine and Chloramine are used by water treatment plants to make drinking water safe. While Chlorine gasses off after a few hours, Chloramine does not because it is Chlorine bonded with Ammonia. Using a quality dechlorinator like Prime with deal with both Chlorine and Chloramine, while detoxifying Ammonia and Nitrite. The detoxified Ammonia will still be read by your test kit, but won't harm your fish. Make sure to dose enough extra Prime (or whatever dechlorinator you're using) to deal with the higher level of Ammonia registering in your tap.

 

[jdsunflower]

dechlorinators

thanks about the tip re Prime. I've been using a dechlorinator of course, but it doesn't mention ammonia (but it does neutralize chloramine, so I guess it's implied). BA type. I'll add a bit more, just in case it might help...Does using more dechlorinator decrease what's available to plants, then? If I understand correctly, it detoxifies the chlorine and chloramine into forms that plants can use. Please let me know if this is NOT the case.
Thanks for your help,
Monique

 

[neilanh]

but now with 50% water change again I seem to be at 2 (tap equivalent)--light yellow.

Light yellow is no where near 2ppm of ammonia on the chart. 2ppm is very much a darker green color. If you are getting a yellow color with little to no green in it, you're below 0.25ppm.

edit:

Here, for general reference. Obviously monitor color tint, etc, it won't be perfect, but this will give you an idea. Different kit, but same color scheme. The readouts, top to bottom, are 0.0, 0.25, 0.50, 1.0, 2.0, 4.0 and 8.0.

 

[jdsunflower]

Well Jeez, thank the Lord. I was still under the assumption that dark yellow was bad (first kit's card). I really need to get a new card!!
Thank you soooo much for clarifying this. I can stop fussing over my tank now, and my fish will be grateful for the lack of attention!
Saw your new thread by the way, your SW tank will be smashing...can't wait for photos. (Does the pressure make you nervous?)
JD

 

[Purrbox]

Plants don't use Chlorine or Chloramine. They do however make use of Ammonia, and can still use it in it's detoxified state.

Doesn't sound like you should need to dose anything extra to treat the Ammonia based on Neilan's statement of your actual ammonia level. Most dechlorinators that can remove Chloramine will handle 0.25ppm of Ammonia without any problems at the normal dose.

 

[jdsunflower]

actually, that doesn't explain why the tank crashed, with fish at surface, unless all the water changes have now hidden the original problem...
back to confusion...ah well things should be calmer for awhile.

 

[jdsunflower]

thanks, everyone for your help. Too late I've already added some more neutralizer. Oh well, the fish will be nice and Slimey!
That post with the reading card is most helpful--thank you, N!

 

[jdsunflower]

It's official, I am losing my mind...

well, it's official, I'm losing my mind.

Now the fish (5 corys) are breathing fast like they did when the whole thing imploded friday (and my rasbora died). They seem to be behaving normally otherwise, perky fins, exploring at times....

I added one tablespoon of neutralizer to the regular dose very recently (40B), should I do yet another partial water change (groan)...can you put too much in?

external canister (eheim) with only mechanical filtration. Not yet cycled, of course. 80F. Readings are less than .25 ammonia, 0 nitrites 0 nitrates.

The tank has had a whitish cloudiness that seems to refuse to dissipate, even after 50-60% water change...Is this a bacteria die-off?

Black flourite on the bottom, I assumed this was some cloudiness from all the water changes recently...I also use vinegar to lower the pH, I thought it might be the vinegar. I've used vinegar like this for years, and can't recall ever having any problems with it...

any theories or advice?
Monique

 

[jdsunflower]

rechecked water parameters

well I thought I'd check the oxygen (11, so good there). Ammonia still under .25, but there is that white cloudiness that I now believe may be a bacteria bloom. Is it because I returned my not-doing-so-great plants to the tank?
Could the bacteria bloom account for ++ fast breathing, and is it something to be concerned about? Should I do another water change? The stress of that is bad too (and on the fish as well)! (I've done 2 daily, about 50% per), x 3 days.

 

[Alaris]

Here is a thread delco started about an experience with a bacteria bloom: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/very-worried-104996.html

Looks like it will go away after a few days.

 

[jdsunflower]

bacteria, poison, or parasites?

I'm beginning to think maybe I've got parasites in the tank...the snail's demise as well as the rasboras, when the snail's poop was coming out very mucousy and stringy, and the corys are breathing very fast despite good water parameters....makes me highly suspicious...
I'll give it 48 hours and see what happens...