fish in cycle (follow along)

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one thing i forgot to mention. depending on your water heater style and size don't temp the water from the faucet until you drained out what you're going to drain from the tank. I noticed when doing a big change that after draining 40ish gallons and then filling the 40ish gallons that my water heater wasn't keeping up & the last 10-15 gallons was ~72F water. just something to keep in mind.
 
NyteGTI said:
one thing i forgot to mention. depending on your water heater style and size don't temp the water from the faucet until you drained out what you're going to drain from the tank. I noticed when doing a big change that after draining 40ish gallons and then filling the 40ish gallons that my water heater wasn't keeping up & the last 10-15 gallons was ~72F water. just something to keep in mind.

Ahhh... Great tip! Thank you. Will keep this in mind.

I did buy a heater that was one size up from what I needed. Forgive me I forgot the name. You can dial it in from the top. Has a blue dial. Suction cups to side. Is silver in color. Also has a green/ red indicator on it. It was kinda expensive( at least I thought)
 
Everything still looking good. I feel your pain, I'm fish-in cycling a lot of tanks right now, like a lot a lot. I think the bacteria you added will swing things pretty quickly, we'll see.
 
jetajockey said:
Everything still looking good. I feel your pain, I'm fish-in cycling a lot of tanks right now, like a lot a lot. I think the bacteria you added will swing things pretty quickly, we'll see.

Thanks and I hope so.
 
Tonight's readings are the same.

Temp 76

Water crystal clear

pH 6.8

Ammonia 0.25 ppm

Nitrite 0 ppm

Nitrate 0 ppm

Guess we'll wait and see what the 2 filters from my friend do. So far nada.
 
Yep let the bb grow to meet your tanks needs. It'll come just keep the ammonia down
 
Ok so as always, I'm reading and researching and so on and so on....

So from what I've gotten so far and PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.

I need ammonia to be able to grow my BB so at what level of ammonia would warrant a WC? I've got 0.25 and usually let that go until I see higher. I guess in short, do I let the ammonia stay as long as it stays at that level? I know you want 0 ammonia but while cycling what's the best way to manage the ammonia? I use ONLY Prime and have stopped using stress coat and any other water conditioners or waste control products.

Bottom line... I do need some ammonia for now right? Do too many WC stunt the cycling process?

Thanks again for all your help and for following along. Tomorrow ( Monday) starts week 4 of my fish in tank cycle.
 
For starters you need to ease up on the water changes. While you are trying to establish your tank, doing 50% changes so often is just restarting your tank. No one also asked this question. What type of water change are you doing? Gravel cleaning or just removing water. In your gravel is where the bacteria needs to start and if you keep stirring it up and removing all the waste you aren't letting it grow. Also, what type of cichlids do you have. you're ph seems too low to me. I keep mine around and have always had best results that way. The average established tank will see nitrates around 30 and ammonia at about .25-.5. Nitrites should always be at 0 but if you see a slight rise it's ok, just do a slight water change and check on your filtration. Also make sure you have adequate air flowing. I noticed you use an API test kit. The line on the villas are not actually correct. Use the cross section of the A for a more accurate amount. Or just use a medical dropper (use one that comes with your Childs medicine). Your temp is good with your feeding schedule, if you decide to increase food then your temp will need to rise to make them more active, around 78-79, once again this depends in what you have. You should have seen a spike by now which every new tank experiences, I think this is because of the constant water changes.


You are doing good but just let it be. Establishing a new tank doesn't happen overnight.
 
even if he's doing 50% changes every 2 hours he's not able to remove 100% of the ammonia. even the minimal amount of ammonia he'd have left after doing 10 changes per day(drastically overstated obviously) would show nitrites & then nitrates later on at least in some fashion, they don't just disappear. He's going on 4 weeks with no trites. also the average established tank does not show .25-.5 ammonia and nitrates are best kept closer to 20 but 40 is still "ok" just not ideal.
 
API test kits are alright but are enough for the novice home user to be able to check if something needs to be taken care of. If you do a water change and then dose the tank, you will not know the true readings for over a day. If you then just jump the gun and do a water change you aren't letting the water run it's course.
 
To clarify something's. I have a 55 with 6 convicts, pair of FM's and 1 bristlenose pleco. I feed every other day and yes I do, do a 50% water change due to the ammonia getting high after about 3 days after a wc. I DO NOT gravel vac at this time. I have decor, driftwood, real rocks, substrate(some) and now 2 filters from my friends established tank. He has a Cichlid tank for many many years with no issues.

I AM going to lesson the water changes as long as my ammonia levels don't get too high. I was always told you can't do enough water changes.

Like stated prior this is going on week 4 with nothing but ammonia. I new to this so I just read, research and ask advice. I feel I am doing the right thing and I monitor the water temp, conditions i.e. Clarity etc... And I also monitor my crew in the tank. All seem happy and healthy.

Not much more I can do... I did state in a previous post I was going to ride it for a few days with NO water changes and see if anything develops.
 
Also pH is low for a convict tank? It's 7.0-6.8 color is SO close it's hard to tell. I read that there good from like 6-8 I figured I was good. And I also thought as long as it was stable it was fine. I thought stability was more of a factor. If it was up and down and down and up that would stress the crew out no?

I'm learning everyday and I'm open to advice and input. I'm also open to criticism as well. I'm still learning but even through this, I'm still enjoying the hobby! And look forward to many happy years with my fish!

Thanks for all the help guys it's much appreciated.

Also one other question. If I'm suppose to ease up on the wc at what point with an ammonia reading to I perform one? And how much? 20-25% instead of 50%?
 
Convicts live in waters from 6.6 - 7.8, you can get by with just picking up 7.0 powder, but through many years of dealing with clichlids they prefer the higher side of the scale. The cycling process of a tank is completed when the levels rise higher than usual and then drop back down to where they are supposed to be.
 
imho DO NOT try to change the PH. keep it natural. the fish can adapt very easily to a different PH but not to PH spikes and drops. leave it alone. the less chemicals in the tank(again imho) the better.

Also water changes at .50 max for me but I did them as soon as i was getting ammo readings and my tank reached the nitrite stage in a few days with established media in my filters.
 
NyteGTI said:
imho DO NOT try to change the PH. keep it natural. the fish can adapt very easily to a different PH but not to PH spikes and drops. leave it alone. the less chemicals in the tank(again imho) the better.

Also water changes at .50 max for me but I did them as soon as i was getting ammo readings and my tank reached the nitrite stage in a few days with established media in my filters.

Gotcha thanks!
 
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