Newbie adopted an established tank and has ?'s :)

[LadyQuorra]

Hi Everyone,
Thanks for taking the time to read this post.

I recently adopted a 30gallon FOWLR Tank from my friend a couple days ago, who has just moved away to California.

The details of my tank can be found on my profile.

In addition to the tank & the things attached to it he gave me.
1. Instant Ocean Sea Salt
2. TOP FIN Tap Water Dechlorinator
3. Hydrometer
4. Ocean Master Test kit (for: pH, Alk, Amm, Nitrite, and Nitrate)
5. Kent MarineTech*l Iodine supplement
6. Ocean Nutrition Formula Two Marine Pellets
7. Replacement Filters

How I ended up with it. (kinda crazy but he was in charge cause idk anything)
He emptied out 2/3 of the water out of the tank and put the live rock in a bucket. Packed the tank, bucket, and all the other supplies into my sedan, and I drove 15 minutes to my apt and got some help unloading everything.

He didn't really give me detailed instructions on what to do since he seemed busy and in a rush, so I used common sense, logic, and the internet to put it back to together.

What I did: 1. Place some of the rocks back in 2. Chlorinated a bucket of tap water as the instructions on the bottle said, then added the salt and mixed it until it looked dissolved and the SG was at 1.022, and last siphoned it into the tank, and repeated the process for 2 more buckets. 3. Finished placing the rocks in to optimize the amount of caves and cool swimming spaces 4. rinsed and scrubbed the filter casing and hung the filtration system on and plugged it in. 4. The tank didn't come with a cover so I put some clingy wrap over like 2/3 of it as a temp fix.

Instructions he gave me: A 20% water change every 2weeks, change the filters every 2-4 weeks, top off w/ dechlorinated tap, keep an eye on the water quality. (maybe a couple others things I can't quite remember atm.

I performed a water quality tests yesterday (as carefully as I new how) my results:
pH-7.9 SG-1.022 Alkalinity~3.5 mEq/L Ammonia - 0 Nitrates <10mg/L Nitrite Low-Range <0.2mg/L Temp-Unknown but I keep my apt between 77-79 degrees F


MY QUESTIONS/CONCERNS:
1. I know I need a thermometer (the sticker one on the tank looks super old and doesnt show anything), any recommendations???
2. The tank didn't come with a lid or cover, was thinking of making one out of cut plexi-glass. Is this a good idea? any recommendations?
3. Should I use the Iodine supplement as directed on the bottle?
4. Is the food provided adequate for all the inhabitants in the tank?
5. Should I test for calcium and phosphates in addition to the basic parameters allowed w/ my current testing kit?
6. Is the light and filtration system adequate for the tank?
7. I'm concerned I may have too much CO2 in the tank concluded from my measured pH & Alkalinity values. How can I verify this? How can I correct this?
8. The tank light is on a timer 8hrs on, 16hrs off, is this correct?
9. The rocks have: white stringy looking stuff on it with super tiny hairy swaying things at the ends; are brownish greyish; I remember them being kinda pinkish/purplish before but they aren't very much like that now; and I sometimes see very small dark gunk dangling off the rocks. Is all this normal?
10. Is the sand deep enough? Should I get more? what kind?

That's all I can think of right now. I can provide nice pictures tomorrow evening for reference if needed. Thanks again for taking the time to read this.

-an extremely concerned newbie

 

[OscarFan76]

Hi Everyone,
Thanks for taking the time to read this post.

I recently adopted a 30gallon FOWLR Tank from my friend a couple days ago, who has just moved away to California.

The details of my tank can be found on my profile.

In addition to the tank & the things attached to it he gave me.
1. Instant Ocean Sea Salt
2. TOP FIN Tap Water Dechlorinator
3. Hydrometer
4. Ocean Master Test kit (for: pH, Alk, Amm, Nitrite, and Nitrate)
5. Kent MarineTech*l Iodine supplement
6. Ocean Nutrition Formula Two Marine Pellets
7. Replacement Filters

How I ended up with it. (kinda crazy but he was in charge cause idk anything)
He emptied out 2/3 of the water out of the tank and put the live rock in a bucket. Packed the tank, bucket, and all the other supplies into my sedan, and I drove 15 minutes to my apt and got some help unloading everything.

He didn't really give me detailed instructions on what to do since he seemed busy and in a rush, so I used common sense, logic, and the internet to put it back to together.

What I did: 1. Place some of the rocks back in 2. Chlorinated a bucket of tap water as the instructions on the bottle said, then added the salt and mixed it until it looked dissolved and the SG was at 1.022, and last siphoned it into the tank, and repeated the process for 2 more buckets. 3. Finished placing the rocks in to optimize the amount of caves and cool swimming spaces 4. rinsed and scrubbed the filter casing and hung the filtration system on and plugged it in. 4. The tank didn't come with a cover so I put some clingy wrap over like 2/3 of it as a temp fix.

Instructions he gave me: A 20% water change every 2weeks, change the filters every 2-4 weeks, top off w/ dechlorinated tap, keep an eye on the water quality. (maybe a couple others things I can't quite remember atm.

I performed a water quality tests yesterday (as carefully as I new how) my results:
pH-7.9 SG-1.022 Alkalinity~3.5 mEq/L Ammonia - 0 Nitrates <10mg/L Nitrite Low-Range <0.2mg/L Temp-Unknown but I keep my apt between 77-79 degrees F

MY QUESTIONS/CONCERNS:
1. I know I need a thermometer (the sticker one on the tank looks super old and doesnt show anything), any recommendations???
2. The tank didn't come with a lid or cover, was thinking of making one out of cut plexi-glass. Is this a good idea? any recommendations?
3. Should I use the Iodine supplement as directed on the bottle?
4. Is the food provided adequate for all the inhabitants in the tank?
5. Should I test for calcium and phosphates in addition to the basic parameters allowed w/ my current testing kit?
6. Is the light and filtration system adequate for the tank?
7. I'm concerned I may have too much CO2 in the tank concluded from my measured pH & Alkalinity values. How can I verify this? How can I correct this?
8. The tank light is on a timer 8hrs on, 16hrs off, is this correct?
9. The rocks have: white stringy looking stuff on it with super tiny hairy swaying things at the ends; are brownish greyish; I remember them being kinda pinkish/purplish before but they aren't very much like that now; and I sometimes see very small dark gunk dangling off the rocks. Is all this normal?
10. Is the sand deep enough? Should I get more? what kind?

That's all I can think of right now. I can provide nice pictures tomorrow evening for reference if needed. Thanks again for taking the time to read this.

-an extremely concerned newbie

1) not sure brand matters but I like the ones with a temp setting.
2) many saltwater tanks are ran open top to promote oxygen exchange. There is less oxygen in salt than fresh. I would recommend a mesh lid instead of plexiglass so it can breath.
3) I don't think this is important if you are doing water changes. I don't think fish need it anyways.
4) not sure on this. What is your stock? I haven't used this brand of food.
5) not needed unless you have coral.
6) I'll get back to you in this.
7) try increasing your salinity to 1.024 or 1.025 with your next wc. That should raise the ph with it. Ph will be higher when your lights are on.
8) 8-12 hours is good. Start with 8
9) probably some die off on the rock. Sounds like possibly some tube worms too. Keep testing your params for a week or two to make sure it is stable.
10) missed how deep it was but your are probably ok. Many run bare bottom tanks. Some fish will require sand.

Another note: it is recommended that you use ro/DI water. Tap most likely contains phosphate, nitrate, minerals etc. that you don't want in your tank. It will cause algae issues or worse.

 

[OscarFan76]

6) the light and filter are probably fine if they ran it that way for two years. You might want to replace the bulbs on the light. The bulbs need to be replaced every 6-12 months depending on the type/quality of the bulbs. Your main filtration in a sw system should be your live rock. You just need flow and enough rock.

 

[LadyQuorra]

Copied and pasted this from my profiles about me:
"My Tanks
FOWLR (I think) 30-gallon Tank.

Outside Dimensions: LxWxH=30"x12.25"x18.75"
Glass Thickness: 0.25"

Equipment:
1. Marineland Penguin 350 BIO-Wheel Power Filter
2. Florescent type light rod? (idk sorry)


Substrate: Depth~0.5" Sand?

Inhabitants (Size/Time in Tank):
1.'Not so' Yellow Watchman Goby (2"/2+yrs)
2.Coral Banded Shrimp (?"/2+yrs)
3.Chocolate Chip? Starfish (3"/2+yrs)
4.Ocellaris Clownfish (2"/~1yr)
5.Yellow 'Coris' Wrasse (2"/~6mo)
6. Three little hermits (<1" each/unknown)

The tank has been established for over 2 years.

But I'm new to caring for a SW Tank by myself.

I adopted this tank from a friend who moved away on 9/25/12."

 

[Beengirl]

The watchman goby would probably love a little more sand to sift through, but its not an absolute necessity. the food is okay, but its better to vary the diet. In the wild they don't eat the same thing everyday. You can get frozen cubes of mysis, bloodworms, etc at LFS for about $5 for 25-30 cubes. You'll only need about 1/4-1/2 a cube per day for those fish.

 

[LadyQuorra]

An acquaintance told me that I NEED a protein skimmer. I told him I didn't think so since it has been running only with the light and Marineland Penguin 350 for 2+years. Is he right?

 

[54seaweed]

since its a fowlr bulb change isn't really necessary unless its getting real dim
its not like your maintaining coral
yes I would add a little more sand a little at a time over a few week period so it dont throw you into a mini cycle
thermometer they sell glass ones that use a suction cup more accurate IMO

#5 you dont need to add iodine or calcium it isn't necessary since you dont have coral
theres enough supplement in the salt mix your using as long as you maintain your water changes
you can get a glass versa top from LFS for like $20.

 

[OscarFan76]

I have heard that Changing bulbs helps prevent algae issues. As they get old they get off color and cause algae or cyno.

A protein skimmer would be helpful but not absolutely required. You will just have to do more water changes.

 

[54seaweed]

An acquaintance told me that I NEED a protein skimmer. I told him I didn't think so since it has been running only with the light and Marineland Penguin 350 for 2+years. Is he right?

if theres no issue with the bulbs your running save your money
if you keep up with your water changes and wipe down inside glass you shouldn't see a big algae bloom unless your over feeding
your not maintaining coral so skimmer is really overkill and not needed

 

[LadyQuorra]

Update

So finally got some batteries for my camera and took some photos.

Does everything look okay? (I have more photos of tank on an album on my profile)

I went to some LFSs today but I forgot it was Sunday so most were closed when I arrived. All I ended up getting was a suction cup thermometer.

I'm going again tomorrow to get some San Francisco Bay Frozen food(Unsure between Marine Cuisine, Carnivore Cuisine, just Mysis, or just bloodworms) since most of my stock is carnivorous. I will also be making a mesh lid for the tank next weekend.

Questions I posted that I'm still unclear about.

#3 about the Iodine supplement. On liveaquaria.com, under 'Coral Banded Shrimp' it says "Supplements: Calcium, Magnesium, Iodine, Trace Elements" (I'm using Instant Ocean Salt mix which I think has the 'trace elements' and there is Calcium in the Aragonite sand, right?) So should I use that Iodine supplement? What about Magnesium?

#5 Testing for Calcium & Phosphates. I noticed in my readings that a lot of people also testing phosphates, why don't I need to test that?

I have some new questions but I'll make new threads for them under the appropriate forums.

again to everyone who posted and to those taking the time to read this

 

[Beengirl]

I use Instant Ocean salt (not the reef salt-just the regular) an it has enough trace minerals that my shrimp has molted multiple times with no problems. He's probably tripled his size over last couple months. I don't dose anything at all, and my inverts and corals are doing fine.

 

[LadyQuorra]

Cool, I probably just traded it off or try to sell it then

 

[LadyQuorra]

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on the tank?
Also I am still confused about #5

 

[OscarFan76]

Phosphate feeds algae and can cause issues for your corals. Gfo and regular water changes will keep it low.