Testing The Waters

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rocketfish

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3
Hello every one I am new to this forum.Actualy the only forum I have ever tried. Im hoping to gain some knowledge from my fellow aquarists,and maybe help others as well.
I am having some ph trouble.I cant seem to raise the ph in my tank after trying several different things:

have done 20% water change
removed African root wood I had for several years
no longer have any live plants
vaccumed/siphened during water changes
Used ph up drops:confused:

I would greatfully except any advice
 
what is the Ph and what is your desired Ph goal?

also size of tank, lighting,substrate and filtration info will help
 
ph is 6.0 would like 7.0
I have a 55 gal ,fluval 4 filter .full hood floresent aquarium bulb
 
If the top of your AQ is covered that alone would keep your PH low. You need more surface agitation. point a power head up and continue with your PWC and in time you shoulf see your PH come up. What is the PH of your source water?
 
Thanks for the info I will try that. I am not good with abreiviation what is pwc? The source water is running around 7.0 although it is town water and I do need to remove chlorine befor adding ,I use drops for that.
 
Partial water change...A good trick with this site is that if you don't know an abbriviation you can hoover your curser over the abbriviation and it will tell you what it means. Give it a try! ;)
 
Messing with water chemistry is challenging and can lead to a wild rollercoaster ride of unwanted swings in the three main values, pH GH & KH.
Proceed very slowly and in small increments, monitor effects of each change for at least a month.

Take a sample of tap water, test pH
Leave it uncovered and retest at 24 & 48hrs, does it drop?
Now here is the real meat & potatoes, test your tap & tank water's GH & KH.
These determine your water's buffering capability, i.e. whether or not it can hold any pH changes made to it.

Ok, much easier to copy/paste a decent article than write it all out myself :rolleyes:
Water Hardness in the aquarium
Hardness... and how to change it


The hardness of water is related to the dissolved minerals in contains. The total hardness is usually regarded as consisting of two components: general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH). General hardness is caused by divalent metal ions, primarily calcium and magnesium. Carbonate hardness is due to carbonate/bicarbonate ions, and represents the main 'buffering capacity' of the water, i.e. its ability to resist pH changes. KH and pH are therefore inter-related: if KH is high, the pH will be very stable (and difficult to alter), if KH is low (e.g. less than 3 degrees KH) then the pH will be less stable.



ncreasing hardness is normally fairly easy. Adding decor to the tank which will gradually leach hardening salts (such as limestone rock) is one way. Hardening materials such as coral gravel could also be added to a canister filter. There are also commercially available hardening salts - these are often used for tanks containing cichlids from the African rift lakes, which are hard and alkaline. Decreasing hardness can be done in two main ways: dilution with softer water, or adsorption of hardening ions. Some people use reverse osmosis (RO), distilled, deionised (DI) or rainwater to dilute their tapwater to a hardness suitable for their fish. Note that hardness has a fairly straight-forward relationship with dilution. For example, if your tapwater has a GH of 10 and you use half tapwater and half pure water, the GH will be 5.
There are also specific products designed to reduce hardness by absorbing the hardening ions. One natural product which can achieve this is peat, while also adding beneficial organic acids to the water. However, the quality and usefulness of different types of peat varies considerably.

I had problems with pH running 5.0 and lower, to low to even maintain the cycle of beneficial bacteria, which was the cause of my ammonia rollercoaster nightmare several years back. I usually ran readings of GH 5. and KH 2.-3., not enough KH to hold pH.
I used, and still use, crushed coral in our filters, and sometimes add Proper pH 7.0 at water changes to maintain consistent pH.
My tap waters pH/GH/KH has improved, and I seldom use Proper pH 7.0 unless doing 75% or larger PWCs.
 
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