Water Changes During Fish In Cycle?

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missriss126

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
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Location
Tallahassee, FL
Hello all. I had a few questions regarding water changes while doing a fish in cycle. I set up my tank (20 gallon long with Marinand Penguin 150B filter) on December 18 and on the 19 added 5 giant danios to start my fish in cycle. My API liquid test kit arrived a few days later. Now I know to test the water daily, but my questions are how often do I need to do water changes and how large do they need to be? I am treating my water with Prime, so I know that will alter the test results for at least 24 hours.

Last night my test results were

Ammonia 2 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 0 ppm
Ph 8.2

After I get home today I will be doing a 50 % water change.

At what level d ammonia do I need to do a water change? Some places say 2 ppm, others say 1 ppm or .25 ppm.


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Where did you read 2ppm!? Thats life threatening. 0.25 is the ideally ppm reading.


I know it is very high, which is why I am posting to ask about water changes. Do you think a 50 percent water change every other day will be fine? I know I won't be able to test my water immediately after the water change because the Prime will give some false results for the ammonia.

I cane here for guidance and advice, not to be scolded. Please offer advice instead of just saying that my ammonia levels are life threatening.


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First thing, test your tap water for ammonia (add dechlorinator first), once we know that we can advise better.
 
You are going to want to keep your nitrate levels no higher than .25ppm. A 50% change every other day might be enough to keep it that low however that's just a guess. You will have to test the water to be sure.

With a 2ppm ammonia level you are actually going to need to do 3 50% water changes to get that down to safe levels.

The prime causes you to get readings of the total ammonia content in the water. This includes the detoxified ammonium. It doesn't give false readings per se but it doesn't let you know how much of that is the toxic form. Just wait an hour after your water changes to test again and you will be fine.
 
You are going to want to keep your nitrate levels no higher than .25ppm. A 50% change every other day might be enough to keep it that low however that's just a guess. You will have to test the water to be sure.

With a 2ppm ammonia level you are actually going to need to do 3 50% water changes to get that down to safe levels.

The prime causes you to get readings of the total ammonia content in the water. This includes the detoxified ammonium. It doesn't give false readings per se but it doesn't let you know how much of that is the toxic form. Just wait an hour after your water changes to test again and you will be fine.
Think you mean Ammonia :)
 
Water change anytime the ammo or nitrite measure above .25ppm or nitrate gets over 10ppm or 20 if you have live plants. Prime doesn't alter the ammo test. You may have to do a 50% water change everyday until your cycle completes.
 
Okay thank you very much. I just completed a 50% water change, and I will retest the water in an hour. I filled a few vials with the water straight out of my tap so I can check and see what the ammonia reads straight out of the tap.


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Doing water changes will not harm, slow, or otherwise influence the time to cycle. They will simply keep levels livable for the fish during the process. 90% changes are perfectly appropriate at times. The giant danios won't be able to live long term in a 20 long. They really need a four foot long tank.

Check out this article... Fish-in Cycling: Step over into the dark side - Aquarium Advice

The statement that 2ppm is life threatening is factually accurate. I don't believe it was stated in a scolding manner or anything other than being a statement of fact. Zero ammonia is the ideal reading.
 
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Doing water changes will not harm, slow, or otherwise influence the time to cycle. They will simply keep levels livable for the fish during the process. 90% changes are perfectly appropriate at times. The giant danios won't be able to live long term in a 20 long. They really need a four foot long tank.

Check out this article... Fish-in Cycling: Step over into the dark side - Aquarium Advice

The statement that 2ppm is life threatening is factually accurate. I don't believe it was stated in a scolding manner or anything other than being a statement of fact. Zero ammonia is the ideal reading.


I know that the giant danios cannot stay in this tank long term. My LFS will let me bring the fish back after I cycle the tank so I can stock it the way I want.

I will re-read that article, now that I have some more questions.

My water out of the tap has 0 ammonia. I only feed a tiny pinch of tropical flakes every other day.

Also, there are some small particles floating in the water. Any idea what caused it?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1388104038.853892.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1388104047.720988.jpg


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Often times during a cycle, you will have cloudy water like this. It's nothing to be concerned about but it can look ugly at times. It's just a bacteria bloom and it's a good indication that your cycle is well underway. :)
 
Often times during a cycle, you will have cloudy water like this. It's nothing to be concerned about but it can look ugly at times. It's just a bacteria bloom and it's a good indication that your cycle is well underway. :)


Thanks! I figured it was normal, but hasn't seen anyone else's tank look like that! Lol


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I know that the giant danios cannot stay in this tank long term. My LFS will let me bring the fish back after I cycle the tank so I can stock it the way I want.

Also, there are some small particles floating in the water. Any idea what caused it?

Awesome. I felt obligated to say it. Glad you're ahead of me on that. :)

Are they particles or small air bubbles?
 
You can try to add some filter floss to your filter. It should remove any particulates. Look for poly fill pillow stuffing.

Raising the water level slightly will reduce the bubbles.
 
I know that the giant danios cannot stay in this tank long term. My LFS will let me bring the fish back after I cycle the tank so I can stock it the way I want.

Am i the only person that can see something wrong with this? Taking fish for the whole purpose of putting them through a cycle to them return them to the lfs. Dont understand it and its a selfish mentality. Whats the difference of cycling with ammonia if youre going to return them anyway? Besides the fact that it will take much longer finishing a fish in cycle than doing fishless. Whats the difference in using the fish you want first, because you arnt damaging the fish youre eventually going to keep. Well thats ok then?... sounds wrong in my opinion and im wondering why it hasnt been mentioned already.
 
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Am i the only person that can see something wrong with this? Taking fish for the whole purpose of putting them through a cycle to them return them to the lfs. Dont understand it and its a selfish mentality. Whats the difference of cycling with ammonia if youre going to return them anyway? Besides the fact that it will take much longer finishing a fish in cycle than doing fishless. What the difference with using the fish you want first, because you arnt damaging the fish youre eventually going to keep. Well thats ok then?... sounds wrong in my opinion


I totally understand what you are saying. I am good friends with the people who work at my LFS. When I first got the giant danios I was intending to keep them in my tank until I did more research and learned that they would not be okay in a 20 long.

It is also my preference. I prefer to do frequent water changes and let nature take its course rather than do fishless cycling. Just because I chose to cycle my tank using an "old school" method doesn't make it any less effective.

Please don't assume that I am being selfish. Fish in cycling is what my family and co workers have always done and I would rather do a method I am familiar with. Granted I never had fancy test kits or anything before, but I am doing what I can to educate myself.


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