What are you using to dose ammonia? I dont see any nitrite or nitrate, are you dosing ammonia? Or putting in fish food?
Water levels
- Thread starter bouncer36
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Dont do water change on a fishless cycle unless your ammonia goes way up above 4ppm. Its generally thought that 6ppm is where it becomes toxic to the beneficial bacteria.
Also do water change if your nitrite goes above readable levels, just to get it down to something readable.
When your Dr Tim ammonium chloride comes, dose upto 4ppm. Add your beneficial bacteria. Test every 24 hours for ammonia and nitrites. When you are seeing nitrites then start testing for nitrates as well. When ammonia drops to below 1ppm redose back upto 2ppm. Keep doing that until you can add 2ppm ammonia and 24 hours later both ammonia and nitrites are 0ppm. Your nitrates should be rising at this point. At this point you are cycled. Do a big water change (or multiple ones) to get nitrates down (preferably below 10ppm) and you can add fish.
Also do water change if your nitrite goes above readable levels, just to get it down to something readable.
When your Dr Tim ammonium chloride comes, dose upto 4ppm. Add your beneficial bacteria. Test every 24 hours for ammonia and nitrites. When you are seeing nitrites then start testing for nitrates as well. When ammonia drops to below 1ppm redose back upto 2ppm. Keep doing that until you can add 2ppm ammonia and 24 hours later both ammonia and nitrites are 0ppm. Your nitrates should be rising at this point. At this point you are cycled. Do a big water change (or multiple ones) to get nitrates down (preferably below 10ppm) and you can add fish.
Double check the ammonia levels by testing. Dont just trust the instructions.
What are your nitrates? If the ammonia is going down it should be going somewhere.
You dosed the ammonia about 10 days ago? Be aware this can take several weeks.
A few things to consider.
- What water conditioner did you decide on?
- You was talking about adding bottled bacteria back when you was dosing with fish food. Did you add any since you started dosing ammonia?
- You could try turning up the the temperature. Optimal temperate for the bacteria is 28c (82f).
- Do you have access to an established aquarium (maybe a friend keeps fish). If so would they give you some filter media you could put in your filter or a sponge you could rinse into your tank?
Beyond that I'm out of ideas, apart from give up on the fishless cycle and start over with a handful of small hardy fish and do a fish in cycle.
A few things to consider.
- What water conditioner did you decide on?
- You was talking about adding bottled bacteria back when you was dosing with fish food. Did you add any since you started dosing ammonia?
- You could try turning up the the temperature. Optimal temperate for the bacteria is 28c (82f).
- Do you have access to an established aquarium (maybe a friend keeps fish). If so would they give you some filter media you could put in your filter or a sponge you could rinse into your tank?
Beyond that I'm out of ideas, apart from give up on the fishless cycle and start over with a handful of small hardy fish and do a fish in cycle.
Decided to use prime and no I haven’t use it since the ammonia started
I have this stress zyme stuff do you think that will work?
No I don’t have anyone that has a fish tank going.
I’m can change my temp on my heater. Now do I just change the temp on my controller? Or do I have to change it on my heater inside of tank too? Right it set to 78
I have this stress zyme stuff do you think that will work?
No I don’t have anyone that has a fish tank going.
I’m can change my temp on my heater. Now do I just change the temp on my controller? Or do I have to change it on my heater inside of tank too? Right it set to 78
Water conditioner and bottled bacteria are different things. Prime is a water conditioner, which you do need to add whenever you pit tapwater into your tank, but it wont do anything to speed up your cycle. You should add some bottled bacteria, like the freshwater version of that Marine stuff you had, or Dr Tims One and Only, or Seachem Stability.
Stress Zyme wont do anything to help the cycle either. I think it eats the mulm and other biological waste. Not something I use, but i cant see any purpose to it without biological waste in the tank.
I dont really know how these heater controllers work. I dont have one.
Stress Zyme wont do anything to help the cycle either. I think it eats the mulm and other biological waste. Not something I use, but i cant see any purpose to it without biological waste in the tank.
I dont really know how these heater controllers work. I dont have one.
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