Common Newbie Pitfalls

[azul]

- Don't leave the lid open if you have ferrets and a stand they are capable of climbing nearby. They will try to go for a swim.

Or CATS!!!!

Your post made me chuckle and remember when my now cat, then kitten, tried to take a swim in my 10 gal aquarium just after college. He would lay on top of the hood, and bat at the fish, then one day the hood and lid couldn't hold his weight...... He fell in, making a huge mess. Angel fish were like...What was that?????

Which is why, I now only have fish at the office and not at home.....

 

[Pranicmegan]

I have found the advice on this site to be invaluable. It has saved me from losing any more fish!!
I would sum up for other Newbies (or Noobs like me) in this way :

There should NEVER be a reading for Ammonia or NitrItes ... if you get a reading on your test kit, DO a partial water change. The higher the reading the higher the % water change you should do.

I have struggled through my tanks cycles as I stocked them before I knew about it. However I HAVE NOT LOST A FISH during this process due to the advice on this forum.

I test DAILY. And do partial water changes DAILY. When I found out about 'the cycle' I tested my African tank only to discover a NitrIte reading of 4!!!!! I had only just moved the tank into position 3 days before thus they got a 90% water change then. So that reading of 4 built up in ONLY 3 days. (Hence the need to test DAILY!)
That day I did TWO partial water changes (35%), and since then I have been doing 35% partial water changes EVERY day (after testing).

In just 4 days that NitrIte level has lowered to UNDER .5 (more like .1 or .2)) and the NitrAte level has built up to 5ppm.

I think all that work is paying off!!!! I'm hoping that these readings indicate the cycle is nearing it's first end.

What I've learned MOST from this, is that testing your water is ESSENTIAL. (I never knew that! Before I thought if it LOOKED clear it was good. Oh dear.)
Ammonia should be 0.
NitrItes should be 0.
NitrAtes should be registering but under 40ppm.

It is when those nitrAtes appear and those NitrItes disappear that you know that the cycle is almost done.

I found all this to be so confusing when I first started. I am getting the hang of it now (I think) (I hope).

I used to agonise over why my fish died .... now I feel like I am 'in control' .... no more 'unexplained' fish deaths!!

I LOVE THIS FORUM!!!

 

[Pranicmegan]

Oh! And the other piece of invaluable advice I read somewhere ..... which I am using with great results ....
Is that the instructions on the can of fish food LIES!!!!
You DO NOT need to feed them all they can eat in 5 minutes. That is WAY TOO MUCH. When I followed these instructions my fish all got fat and the water quality was shot.

I read somewhere that for African Cichlids you should feed them only what they can eat in 20-30 seconds. And you should feed this small amount regularly rather than a larger amount once a day.

Since I have been doing this, limiting the food to what they can eat in 30 seconds, I have not had fat fish, or bloat, and the water parameters are improving greatly.

I feel that 5 minutes of feeding is TOO MUCH, especially for ppl like me who kill their fish with love by OVER feeding. Since I went to this method of feeding (and presoaking their food) I no longer have fat, bloated bellies, and unhealthy fish.

I use this method on BOTH my stocked tanks, both the African tank and the South American tank.
(Sheesh I researched enough to work out what fish for what tank, but did I continue on and find out about 'the cycle' ... sigh).

Between working on my 'cycle' AND this method of feeding I have found my fishy problems to have subsided

 

[jim692]

handy tips

I wish to share some handy tips (just from my set-up, reading, threads at AA) I wish I knew when we started my son's tank.


When in doubt ask! Realize that what you don't know can kill your fish and ruin your enjoyment of the tank. (#1 of all time) There are lots of knowledgeable people here willing to help.

Have a plan. research and figure out what type of tank you want ( fresh, salt, planted, etc.) and what you want in it before you start. Then you can match the tank, equipment, and fish to your needs.

Get the largest tank reasonable for your budget and space. Bigger tanks are more forgiving to beginners and will keep you from running out of space too fast.

Learn about the nitrogen cycle. It controls the tank.

Go slow with changes to your tank. Haste = tragedy in most cases.

Remember, good water quality = happy fish ; poor water quality = dead fish. (#2 all time)

Avoid all soap. Fish clean and people clean are totally different

Don't add things other than water conditioner to your water or tank without good solid advice. You may do more harm than good.

Cycle your tank fish less. It is better in so many ways. (#3 all time)

Know what is going on with the water in your tank. Temperature, pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate should all be watched until the tank is fully established.

Test the water daily(at least when starting up) with a good kit like an API master test kit and write down the results so you can compare if a problem arises. (#4 all time)

If you do cycle with fish, (not recommended) Keep ammonia, and nitrite below .50 ppm while cycling (they should drop to 0.0ppm when cycling completes). Keep Nitrates below 20 - 40 ppm always. (use water changes to lower all)

Water changes are good! If your water changes are more than a 5 gal. bucket (50% of 10 gal tank) get a Python. You won't believe the difference. You will also not dread larger water changes.

Don't over feed the fish. See water quality above.

Cycling takes weeks, not days, be patient.

Don't rinse the filter under the tap in the sink. Chlorine will kill the good bacteria. Use warm dechlorinated water or tank water to rinse your filter.

Don't change too much filter media at a time. Good bacteria live there.

Add fish slowly. let your tank adjust.

Quarantine new fish after start up. Don't let a new sick fish contaminate the whole tank.

There are many more I am sure but these come to mind at present.

 

[shanklyred]

Hi, i've just got my first aquarium, it was a friend who gave it to me through his loss of interest. it already had fish in it. i moved it myself and set it up again, waited for the water to heat to 75, then put the fish in. he told me to wait 1 week before i get more fish. i bought ten neons a red fin shark and a plec, to go with 2 clown loaches 2 black skirt tetras 2 flame tetras and a glowlight. the glow light and 5 neons have died. there seems to be a film on the top of the water. i know i need to do a cycle, but how do i do it with the fish i have? i only have 1 tank.???????

 

[JWALK2828]

If you know there is absolutely no way you will ever want a pleco, do not, under any circumstances ever even think about broaching the subject with jchillin.

what's wrong with a pleco?

 

[MarkhamDave]

I certainly agree with not putting too much credance in LFS advice. They are often wrong and never in doubt. I spent thousands in one store only to discover that the salesman had never actually owned or cared for a tank.

Read, do research, join a group like this, get involved in a local aquarium club (always nice to handle a "dumb" question with a local call) and plan the aquarium maintenance and fish load.

 

[authorize]

Hello all. I'm new to this hobby. I've been on here for about 2 days, digging for info before I act. I only have a 10G tank, which I found out, is quite useless. I might go for a 30G rectangular tank that I found on Craigslist. I haven't purchased anything yet, since I want to know what to do and what not to do. Some things that I learned here are:

1) Crayfish and regular fish in the same tank = disaster.

2) Must cycle a tank. What does that mean/do anyways?

3) Certain fishes can't go with others, while others can. I'll look more into that when I get the tank up and running.

4) Cramming more than 1 fish into a 10G tank = stressed fishes. Which lead me to getting the 30G.

What else do I need to do/get? I kind of want to do some research before I spend any money. Thanks for everyone's help

 

[MarkhamDave]

You haven't stated what you plan for your tank.If you want marine (salt) then you need to take some extra precautions.
Cycleing refers to the process of allowing good bacteria to become established in your tank. In a salt environment, if you have some Live Rock", it has enough live growth that you won't need to risk a fish. If you set it up with theright environment of chemicals (see much research) you can watch the chemcal changes in your aquarium go from being high in Ammonia, to being high in Nitrate to Nitrite which is finally safe for fish as long as it is below 20-30 PPM.
Use Google, use this site or anything else for research. You will save a lot of time, frustration and money by reading and learning before diving in. This pastime is much more compicated than you may realize.
And ask questions on this site.

 

[veggievettech]

Laugh at the lady at Petsmart when she tells you to add fish after the tank has been "running" for 3 days.
Have much patience... I'm in my 8th week of cycling with fish (thanks to the lady at Petsmart)
Make friends with someone who has an established tank so you can "borrow" some of their bacteria and make your cycle go faster!

 

[authorize]

I'm planning on going with the freshwater route. I don't think I have the skills to pull off a saltwater tank, at least not yet. Good thing I have a consultant I can go to (he's an ex-coworker's boyfriend). This site has also proven to be very helpful. I was going to get a tank and put a crayfish with a few other fishes. Good thing I didn't do that.

 

[martiniduck]

water softener

I am a newbie to the new ways of fish keeping. Ten years ago I had an aquarium and I did all the wrong things discussed in this forum. I have decided to return to this hobby. I have a 29 gallon tank and would like to introduce Tropical fresh water fish to it. I use to live in Chicago which has soft water, I now live in the far suburbs and I have hard water with a water softener. The water at my faucets are soft, but I am worried about the salt from the softener. Will the salt from the water softener be a problem? Also I saw a post that said never change the filter just rinse it off. Don't you have to change the filters? I was always told the charcoal removes the ammonia from the water. I have read all about the cycling and I know the bacteria eat the ammonia, but if there is too much ammonia wouldn't you want it removed with the charcoal filter?

 

[Squareheads]

Yeh i kinda dumped the fish and the plants in less than a week...

I dont get the cycle part... can someone expand on this? what does it mean to have a balanced cycle?...

im happy that my fish survived a week from my noobish mistakes... so where do i go from there?... btw all i have is a gravel vac, and some samples of water conditioner, food, and bacteria cycle stuff...

 

[HN1]

Hmmm... maybe better for a new thread, but I'll try to paint the broad strokes for ya Square. Cycling... in a nutshell, there are bacteria that consume Ammonia and excrete Nitrite. There are also bacteria that consume Nitrite and excrete Nitrate. Both Ammonia and Nitrite can be lethal to fish and inverts in small concentrations. The goal of cycling is to allow the bacterial colonies to grow in pace with the wastes your creatures produce. The Nitrate is relatively harmless and is removed by doing water changes. In a cycled tank... fish poop etc = ammonia, ammonia becomes nitrite, nitrite becomes nitrate, water change removes end product and makes for healthy fish.

The best suggestions I can offer are to get a good liquid test kit (API Master FW is good quality for the money) and to test regularly and do water changes anytime ammonia or nitrite are .25 or higher.

There are quite a few good conditioners on the market. I'm a big fan of Prime made by Seachem. Feel free to make a new thread or PM me for any additional explanations.

 

[Squareheads]

Well I got some plants in my tank, so i guess the nitrogen cycle is working decently. A guy in the fish store said that 2 weeks is long enough for bacteria to grow, i agree with that, but it he didn't say that bacteria has fully grown yet...

I just recently bought 2 flower shrimp ( got it on sale, i believe it was $13/each but got it for $4) and got a bushy nose plecos.

hopefully i made the right move... and i got Prime as well and put half a cup in the tank for the heck of it... any constructive criticism?

 

[mgamer20o0]

even once you been keeping fish for a couple years you are not a expert. i dont know this one bugs me at times. i been keeping fish 10 plus years and am far a expert. some people get a little knowledge than becomes a expert. nothing wrong with trying to help people but pass the info as fact when still dont grasp all the basics isnt always helpful.

 

[GJ-Anderson]

ok, by the post defining newbie and noob - not a noob, just a newbie to fish (not a newbie to other aquatic animals or tanks).

Please correct me if I'm wrong (fish are different than turtles) but I was always told (by vets and other experts) the Ph should never be below 6.6 and never higher than 7.7 even if appearing to be stable. I know many people do not check the Ph levels with their turtles and then wonder why they get sick and die.

I posted in the "Welcome" section and asked for advice in a new thread...got treated as if I have no experience with tanks, ponds or anything else. I did act the part: "ok..add in to what I need one water test kit" type comment.

I also see people commenting on no stupid question, but it seems like my question there must have been pretty stupid or something. First, I didn't use the word "planning" but referred to the definition of the word. "need to know what to get..." and I get treated as if I'm rushing. I also stated that I was on a tight budget.

Now I know, people in here say to research before but then they act like if you don't follow their advice then you were wrong...very very confusing.

My advice to the one about Ph levels is this: get a bucket or something else to practice with (same size as tank); empty 50%-60% like you would do a PWC and in another bucket, adjust the Ph then put into tank/bucket. Adjust Ph back about where it is naturally out of the faucet and do again until correct. I found for the Ph levels for turtle tanks that I usually only had to lower Ph levels by about 50% solution...always came out to around 6.9 to 7.1 -- which is almost perfect for a turtle tank.

Ok, anyways...after reading many posts in here..I'm almost debating about selling or taking back my 10 gallon aquarium kit (though I can't take back the gravel...store was on clearance-going out of business) and just not getting fish at all. It's not the work for the reason, but it seems that everybody goes against 10 gallon tank people (don't have the room nor the budget for anything bigger)...I guess I'm too poor to have fish though (by an email from member of another website). I might as well, build those wall shelves and then build the 240 gallon terrarium and get something I'm not a newbie on...TURTLES.

Stress on just getting ideas and advice on where to go with a 10 gallon aquarium is just getting too much for me. Only 2 websites gave me any advice, 1 - I'm too poor and this one - I need to know about cycling water (which makes me laugh because turtle waste is higher in Nitrites than a 30 gallon aquarium of fish - in accordance to Dr. Richards from the Dallas Zoo).

One question, just in case I decide to keep my poor man's aquarium. I have seen one in this thread say to keep the Nitrates below 30 ppm while someone else says 20 ppm, which is correct? Dr. Richards is retired and I do not live in Dallas anymore and it seems like nobody around here really knows. Should I just go ahead and make sure it is no higher than 10 ppm (since that is the highest level for turtles)...also I have always had someone else do the tests so it would be the first time to actually do the tests (but even if I get a turtle, would still need to do the tests myself).

Sorry, may seem I'm grumbling at all in here...just frustrated because of getting no ideas about tank and getting treated like a moron or a poor looser from other people. Also just in a bad mood today...stupid med exam... VA hospitals suck royally.

 

[HN1]

ok, by the post defining newbie and noob - not a noob, just a newbie to fish (not a newbie to other aquatic animals or tanks).

Please correct me if I'm wrong (fish are different than turtles) but I was always told (by vets and other experts) the Ph should never be below 6.6 and never higher than 7.7 even if appearing to be stable. I know many people do not check the Ph levels with their turtles and then wonder why they get sick and die.

I posted in the "Welcome" section and asked for advice in a new thread...got treated as if I have no experience with tanks, ponds or anything else. I did act the part: "ok..add in to what I need one water test kit" type comment.

I also see people commenting on no stupid question, but it seems like my question there must have been pretty stupid or something. First, I didn't use the word "planning" but referred to the definition of the word. "need to know what to get..." and I get treated as if I'm rushing. I also stated that I was on a tight budget.

Now I know, people in here say to research before but then they act like if you don't follow their advice then you were wrong...very very confusing.

My advice to the one about Ph levels is this: get a bucket or something else to practice with (same size as tank); empty 50%-60% like you would do a PWC and in another bucket, adjust the Ph then put into tank/bucket. Adjust Ph back about where it is naturally out of the faucet and do again until correct. I found for the Ph levels for turtle tanks that I usually only had to lower Ph levels by about 50% solution...always came out to around 6.9 to 7.1 -- which is almost perfect for a turtle tank.

Ok, anyways...after reading many posts in here..I'm almost debating about selling or taking back my 10 gallon aquarium kit (though I can't take back the gravel...store was on clearance-going out of business) and just not getting fish at all. It's not the work for the reason, but it seems that everybody goes against 10 gallon tank people (don't have the room nor the budget for anything bigger)...I guess I'm too poor to have fish though (by an email from member of another website). I might as well, build those wall shelves and then build the 240 gallon terrarium and get something I'm not a newbie on...TURTLES.

Stress on just getting ideas and advice on where to go with a 10 gallon aquarium is just getting too much for me. Only 2 websites gave me any advice, 1 - I'm too poor and this one - I need to know about cycling water (which makes me laugh because turtle waste is higher in Nitrites than a 30 gallon aquarium of fish - in accordance to Dr. Richards from the Dallas Zoo).

One question, just in case I decide to keep my poor man's aquarium. I have seen one in this thread say to keep the Nitrates below 30 ppm while someone else says 20 ppm, which is correct? Dr. Richards is retired and I do not live in Dallas anymore and it seems like nobody around here really knows. Should I just go ahead and make sure it is no higher than 10 ppm (since that is the highest level for turtles)...also I have always had someone else do the tests so it would be the first time to actually do the tests (but even if I get a turtle, would still need to do the tests myself).

Sorry, may seem I'm grumbling at all in here...just frustrated because of getting no ideas about tank and getting treated like a moron or a poor looser from other people. Also just in a bad mood today...stupid med exam... VA hospitals suck royally.

I'm sorry you're having a bad experience with fish. They can be very rewarding to keep. There's nothing whatsoever wrong with a 10G tank. I'm not sure what type you're starting, but I will say that cycling is indeed very important. I haven't kept turtles in years, but will point out one primary difference... the fish have gills and any potentially toxic compounds in the water effectively pass through internal organs. The pH info is incorrect for fish. 6.6 to 7.7 is a good general range, but plenty of fish will thrive outside that band. For instance, Discus and other SA species at the low end and African Rift Lake cichlids (plus SW) at the higher end (8+). Modifying the pH very often leads to more trouble than it helps. Stability is truly key for fish. As far as the Nitrate thing goes... the "rule" I subscribe to is that fish will be fine up to 40, can survive up to 80, and keep my levels = or < 20. "Old tank syndrome" (long term water neglect basically) can push that survivable number even higher. The only "issue" with a 10G is that it limits the inhabitants you can keep. Just like it would for turtles or any other animals.

If I can help at all, feel free to ask (here or PM). Hang in there... I have a little experience with the VA as well, I know the frustration...

 

[mgamer20o0]

Please correct me if I'm wrong (fish are different than turtles) but I was always told (by vets and other experts) the Ph should never be below 6.6 and never higher than 7.7 even if appearing to be stable. I know many people do not check the Ph levels with their turtles and then wonder why they get sick and die.

with fish there is a wider range some of the south America fish some can tolerate 5ph some even lower then that. on the other side some of the rift lake fish need higher ph 8 and some times even higher.

Now I know, people in here say to research before but then they act like if you don't follow their advice then you were wrong...very very confusing.

yes more so since there almost always is more then one way to do something. often people get set in their ways and dont realize the other ways work also.

First, I didn't use the word "planning" but referred to the definition of the word. "need to know what to get..." and I get treated as if I'm rushing.

some times people dont always read the whole thread. i been guilty of that think i answered it right but found out thats not what they are asking. some people you just cant win with. one thing i learned is never to get worked up over a forum.

after reading many posts in here..I'm almost debating about selling or taking back my 10 gallon aquarium kit

dont let people knock you down. once you start you will be hooked. while a 10 gallon is small there are plenty of options more then people know.

I need to know about cycling water

but fish and turtles are different i know fish not turtles though. fish cant take the high levels of ammonia and nitirite .

One question, just in case I decide to keep my poor man's aquarium. I have seen one in this thread say to keep the Nitrates below 30 ppm while someone else says 20 ppm, which is correct?

nitrates are used as a indicator of your total disolved solids. while the nitrates wont hurt the fish the build up of tds can lead to old tank syndrom. i say keep them bellow 20ppm but 30ppm is fine. i just do 50% water changes since its so easy plus i have plants so it tends to be lower then that.

Sorry, may seem I'm grumbling at all in here...just frustrated because of getting no ideas about tank

pm me and ill help. there are plenty of other people that are very helpful here. when i join a fourm the first thing i do is learn who knows what they are talking about and who doesnt. something i was talking about in the other post people who seem like they know whats going on but dont. it happens its a free site. what can you do about it.....

 

[GJ-Anderson]

with fish there is a wider range some of the south America fish some can tolerate 5ph some even lower then that. on the other side some of the rift lake fish need higher ph 8 and some times even higher.

Thanks for that info... it is something that is always good to know. I just went over all my books, and the Ph rule that I was taught was for reptiles and amphibians only.

some times people dont always read the whole thread. i been guilty of that think i answered it right but found out thats not what they are asking. some people you just cant win with. one thing i learned is never to get worked up over a forum.

One reason I'm trying to get this aquarium going...I get stressed out easily. Unfortunately, I have a mental disorder that is partially to blame for this. Thank fully, 2 things have been proved to calm my stresses...1 is water (such as aquariums, going to the ocean, etc...) the other is just not for this forum (not illegal or anything).

while a 10 gallon is small there are plenty of options more then people know.

Thanks, friend said same thing last night to me...he started off with 10 gallon but gave it to niece and now only has salt water (250 or something gallon - custom).

nitrates are used as a indicator of your total dissolved solids. while the nitrates wont hurt the fish the build up of tds can lead to old tank syndrom. i say keep them bellow 20ppm but 30ppm is fine. i just do 50% water changes since its so easy plus i have plants so it tends to be lower then that.

thank you, I have now heard from 25 people saying 20 ppm or below so now I know. This will be easier than turtles...had to keep nitrate levels below 10 ppm, nitrite levels equal or lower than 1 ppm and ammonia levels at levels less than 2 ppb (parts per billion).

pm me and ill help. there are plenty of other people that are very helpful here. when i join a fourm the first thing i do is learn who knows what they are talking about and who doesnt. something i was talking about in the other post people who seem like they know whats going on but dont. it happens its a free site. what can you do about it.....

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind. One question that I do have right off the bat (may help other newbies too) during initial no fish cycling, do you put the live plants in during or after? Common Sense tells me after, but I saw somewhere else on the Internet to put in live plants before the initial cycling. It doesn't make any sense to me, but if that's correct then I will adjust my thinking.

In all my days of turtles and cleaning other people's fish aquariums... can someone please show me where drinking hose for pythons is better than garden hoses (San Antonio Zoo keepers for aquariums say the exact opposite...maybe I misunderstood them, but for that I need to see documented info, I have always used garden hoses and always been taught drinking hoses are treated to kill bacteria, wonder if these people who taught me were misinformed).

glad I took bio-chemistry in college...does help a little bit.

Again thanks, I just got stressed from all these other people. Great advice in many different posts and great place to come to for assistance. (keeps my brain active and keeps me on my toes; most likely why people in here love this place).