Should i Make a Wet dry filter?

[djpax]

I have been reading about wet dry filters and how to build them. It seems that most people who have them have salt water tanks, I was thinking of making one for my 55 fresh water tank. Now my questions are: are they so much better than Canister filters and HOB filters you by at the store? what would be a good size container for my sump if i do build it? and are Bio balls that good or can i just use whatever?

 

[mattrox]

I have not built or used one, but the main benefit I see is that it inceases the total volume of water in the system. If you built one from a 20 Gal tank you might add 15-18 gals of water to your system, making it more stable to fluctuations.

I have heard of sustems with a small wet dry attached to a plant only tank before the water is returned to the main tank.

Just some thoughts, don't know if they help or not?

 

[xray]

Depending on the size of the sump, you almost always get more surface area for biological filtration. Big plus! O2/C02 exchange in also very high. They are very costomizable (i.e. in line co2 difusers, heaters ect..). Also If you DIY it, its cheaper than buying a canister (although not by much.) HTH

one more thing look in the diy section of this site, I'm sure there is more than one design for a wet/dry sump filter

 

[TomK2]

You could make it yourself, and oxygenation would be superb. You could then have a calm surface in the display tank for fish like butterfly fish, and other surface dwellers. Drawbacks are the noise (gurgling, splashing) and the need for a siphon type overflow box, if the tank isn't drilled with an overflow box. They are super efficient nitrifiers. Kind of like the big brother of a bio-wheel. Heaters can be put in the sump too, keeping the display tank neater.

If you keep the volume of the sump smaller, it might be possible to set it up so that the volume of the tank and sump can be held in the display tank only - then if the outflow stops (siphon overflow malfunction) while the inflow from the sump continues, no flood. You can use any size container that will fit under your stand, including rubbermaid tubs or old smaller tanks. You can probably only fill the sump to about half its hieght with water, since you will need room above the sumps waterline for the water to drip over the bioballs. I have heard of people using plastic shotgun shotshell wads instead of bioballs because they are cheaper.

There should be many DIY instructions on AA or the Internet. Or use your imagination! My opinion for size would be a 10 or 15 gal size sump, keeping the water level in the display tank just above the trim, and the water level in the sump low enough so that the sump contents could not flood the display tank.

 

[jsoong]

.... and the water level in the sump low enough so that the sump contents could not flood the display tank.

TomK2 has neatly summarized the advantage of a wet dry sump system. I would just like to add that you don't have to have a small sump to prevent a flood ... you simply have to have the return pump intake high enough so that it can't pump out the entire sump volume. I have a large sump & I have my water intake of the return pump a couple of inches under water, so only 5 gal or so will be pumped up should the overflow fails <of course you need to have 5 gal or so of room in your display to accomodate the water>

Wet/dry/sump is frequently use in FW for "messy" fish - like goldies. Also, almost all serious ponders have a wet dry of some sort.

 

[djpax]

thanks for the tips. I have been looking online for the past week or so at DIY plans, and will probably take it on in a few weeks. As for an overflow box i will probably buy a pre made one just cause i dont want to deal with it. I saw one guy who had plants in his sump and ghost shrimp was that just for fun or does it actually do something?

 

[czcz]

Plants provide nitrate removal and shrimp keep plants clean. Algae eating shrimp are better than ghost shrimp at that, from what I've read and seen. In addition, reverse photo-period in the sump should keep oxygen/pH levels closer to stable assuming co2 injection. Fun too

 

[TomK2]

you simply have to have the return pump intake high enough so that it can't pump out the entire sump volume.

Clever! I had not thoght of that solution! If I had, I might have built one for my current system. After having a few non-aquarium floods in my house, I became very water cautious. Since the trim on a tank ends an inch or so below the top, you can still have the tank look full while you have enough room above for sump volume in case of overflow box malfunction. I am tempted to start planning one now,since I would like to have a calm display tank surface yet still have excellent oxygenation. But I could always hold out for a new tank drilled with overflow boxes....

 

[TomK2]

I saw one guy who had plants in his sump and ghost shrimp was that just for fun or does it actually do something?

I first ran across the "living sump" in the SW reef area. The photo-period for the sump would be exactly opposite the display tank. That would keep oxygen, co2, and pH the same day and night. You could do this in a FW planted system too. Even if the photoperiod is the same as the display tank, the plants in the sump provide "nutrient export" from the system when they are trimmed, and use up nitrate. I don't know if people who use a living sump still use the wet/dry biofilter tho.

Boy, am I starting to regret the fact that I went sumpless! But its not too late...

edit: in other words, just what czcz said! (didn't read down far enough before replying )

 

[czcz]

I hope you build one Tom. It would be extra cool with your DIY auto water change system

I don't know if people who use a living sump still use the wet/dry biofilter tho.

FWIW I have to use 2*2L DIY co2 w/ 2 diffusers (each tank) to keep ~25ppm co2 and pearling in both tanks. The "dry" stage of my diy wet/dry is only a couple of inches and system volume is <20g. I doubt wet/dry is needed for gas exchange in such a set-up (only bio filtration), but if it ain't broke...

 

[djpax]

AA rocks and thanks for all the input. LIke i said i will build on in a few weeks and ill post some pics when im done.

Thanks again!!

 

[TomK2]

I hope you build one Tom. It would be extra cool with your DIY auto water change system

Yeah. the original plan called for building it then deciding wether or not to go SW. Before I got it built I decided to go FW, and it was easier to set up a pair of canisters. I coud switch pretty easily, but now want to spend my time and cash setting up a breeding tank and quarantine tank. I suppose I could lower the outflow nozzles of my fluvals and get more calm surface for some surface dwellers, but I would be a little worried about oxygen levels as I stock the tank. I might end up pushing the stocking level since I can change water so easily. With a 47 inch by 12 inch surface area, think I would get enough O2 exhchange without surface agitation or wet/dry if I added a schoold of larger tetras, a spiny eel, a couple more angels, and some surface dwellers to my durrent set uP?

Edit: actually, when you allow for all my fish to get to full size, I already am pushing the stocking level!