10 gallon Vivarium

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Aquarium1

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I'm thinking of turning my 10g into a vivarium after I finish stocking my 55g (its a grow out tank for the 55). I'm wandering, what kind of amphibians that are easy to care for, could I keep in a 10 gallon?
So far I'm thinking fire bellied newts(or toads). Any other suggestions? Thanks :D
 
Honastly there is not a ton you can do in a 10g. Even a 20g would be better but it is all about what you have. I would say the fire belly toad or maybe a fire belly newt would be about it amphibian wise. You could squeeze 2 in there of either 1. You could keep a house gecko or a anole in there. If you did either of these i would stand the tank on end maybe and put a peice of plexiglass on the bottom of it so you can put a thicker layer of dirt. Just some ideas. most salamanders/newt get too big or are too active for such a small tank.
 
Yeah I know that I'm limited, and that I could have two of those species, just wondering what suggestions ppl have. I kinda like the fire belly toad more, but the newt would be easier to feed. I'm gonna keep researching too. lol AT one point I was thinking Dart Frogs but the cost of the animal is outrageous lol.
 
Ok, I'm pretty set on either the newts or the toads. I have a few thoughts/questions.
-Should I breed crickets and try to ignore the chirping lol or just buy them every week?
-What should I do with them when I go on vacation (which is usually 6-7 days max)
-Is it worth it to spend extra money on a fogger or digital thermometer/hygrometer?
-What plants could I use with them?
-Could I use prime, even though I won't be keeping fish?

Thanks
 
Ok, I'm pretty set on either the newts or the toads. I have a few thoughts/questions.
-Should I breed crickets and try to ignore the chirping lol or just buy them every week?
-What should I do with them when I go on vacation (which is usually 6-7 days max)
-Is it worth it to spend extra money on a fogger or digital thermometer/hygrometer?
-What plants could I use with them?
-Could I use prime, even though I won't be keeping fish?

Thanks

#1-It is up too you if you want to breed crickets. It has its advantages. You will be able to have healthier cricketsbecause you could gut load them and give your toads healthier crickets. You could do this when you buy them as well but then you cant gut load them there whole life (until they are eaten). Gut loading is feeding the crickets healthy viatiman packed food so it is passed to the frogs when they eat them which usually equals healthier frogs. Below is a good link for info on it and raising/breeding them.
Keeping and Raising Crickets for Food - and Gut Loading

#2-When you go on vacation the best way is to really have someone else feed them. You feed them 3 to 6 crickets about every 2 or 3 days. So feed them before you leave, then someone only has to feed them another 1 or 2 times. Just have there light on timers. And i like to add a fogger or something on a timer for coolness and variety.

#3 i like to do that because it keeps humidity up (i would do it like once or teice a day) and this will help you avoid having to mist manually. As for the digital thermometer that is up too you. I think i would buy a small water heater for the aquarium side and hide it so if the water gets too cold then it will warm up.

Here is a excert i copied and pasted that i agree with that i don't want to type out but is basically what i was gonna say.
"Fire-bellied toads are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures, which is one of the reasons they make good captives. Daytime temperatures should range from 72°F to 78°F (22°C to 26°C) and can drop at night. Cool temperatures are tolerated well, and occasional drops down to 60°F (16°C) don’t present a problem. Avoid temperatures above 82°F (28°C). A low wattage incandescent light bulb can be placed over the land area during the day to create a warm spot for the toads. A submersible aquarium heater can be used to heat the water if needed, though only rarely will this be required. "

#4-
Epipremnum (devils ivy, pothos, etc etc)
Peace lilly
Philodendron scandens (heart leaf plant)
Tradescanthia (inch plant etc)
Pellonia
Birds nest fern,
Java moss

You could also do things like hornwart in the water section. Also make sure it is moist. Tryo to put larger stones in the water and whats around the cage so there is no accedintal swallowing. On the land side you could do gravel on the bottom for water draining and then a layer of Lizard Litter Jungle Mix for plant growth, and a top layer of live moss so the toads dont ingest the Lizard Litter (though the toads do love to burrow a bit in this moss). I prefer to have a small peice of plexiglas siliconed on too seperate the water/land side. But that is all up to prefrence. Just make sure that the toads can sit in the water were they are no completley submerse and were they can completely submerse.

#5-Yes, you ALWAYS need to dechloranate the water you put in, even though they are not fish. Frog skin can be very sensative.

Another note is do remember that these are not the kind of animal to be held all the time. They can create rashes on some people do to there toxins and always wash your hands after handeling.
 
#1-It is up too you if you want to breed crickets. It has its advantages. You will be able to have healthier cricketsbecause you could gut load them and give your toads healthier crickets. You could do this when you buy them as well but then you cant gut load them there whole life (until they are eaten). Gut loading is feeding the crickets healthy viatiman packed food so it is passed to the frogs when they eat them which usually equals healthier frogs. Below is a good link for info on it and raising/breeding them.
Keeping and Raising Crickets for Food - and Gut Loading

Well I talked to my mom, and I won't be breeding them lol. I've read of the risk of escaping crickets and she doesn't like that at all hahaha.

#2-When you go on vacation the best way is to really have someone else feed them. You feed them 3 to 6 crickets about every 3 days. So feed them before you leave, then someone only has to feed them another 1 or 2 times. Just have there light on timers. And i like to add a fogger or something on a timer for coolness and variety.

Ok. I might be able to get my uncle to watch them, one of my trusted neighbors. I'll probly find someone.

#3 i like to do that because it keeps humidity up (i would do it like once or teice a day) and this will help you avoid having to mist manually. As for the digital thermometer that is up too you. I think i would buy a small water heater for the aquarium side and hide it so if the water gets too cold then it will warm up.

Here is a excert i copied and pasted that i agree with that i don't want to type out but is basically what i was gonna say.
"Fire-bellied toads are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures, which is one of the reasons they make good captives. Daytime temperatures should range from 72°F to 78°F (22°C to 26°C) and can drop at night. Cool temperatures are tolerated well, and occasional drops down to 60°F (16°C) don’t present a problem. Avoid temperatures above 82°F (28°C). A low wattage incandescent light bulb can be placed over the land area during the day to create a warm spot for the toads. A submersible aquarium heater can be used to heat the water if needed, though only rarely will this be required. "

Ok. I'd probly only need a 50w Max heater for that little of a volume. I'll look into the light. I'll probly get a digital therm. and an analog hygro. I don't blame you for copying and pasting haha. And I'll keep that in mind about the fogger.

#4-
Epipremnum (devils ivy, pothos, etc etc)
Peace lilly
Philodendron scandens (heart leaf plant)
Tradescanthia (inch plant etc)
Pellonia
Birds nest fern,
Java moss

You could also do things like hornwart in the water section. Also make sure it is moist. Tryo to put larger stones in the water and whats around the cage so there is no accedintal swallowing. On the land side you could do gravel on the bottom for water draining and then a layer of Lizard Litter Jungle Mix for plant growth, and a top layer of live moss so the toads dont ingest the Lizard Litter (though the toads do love to burrow a bit in this moss). I prefer to have a small peice of plexiglas siliconed on too seperate the water/land side. But that is all up to prefrence. Just make sure that the toads can sit in the water were they are no completley submerse and were they can completely submerse.

Thanks. I have some of those plants in my house already haha. And I'll keep that in mind while aquascaping.

#5-Yes, you ALWAYS need to dechloranate the water you put in, even though they are not fish. Frog skin can be very sensative.

Another note is do remember that these are not the kind of animal to be held all the time. They can create rashes on some people do to there toxins and always wash your hands after handeling.

I know they need a dechlor. I was wondering if Prime would be ok since it "Promotes Natural Slime Coat". Thanks so much for all the info.
 
Naa, i would not worry about any prime. As for lights they do not need anything expensive. Some people say that they could benefit from a UV light but they are fine without it, some people do it as a extra step. As for the crickets you could dust them or you could buy them in advance and and gut feed them that way. By the way, the escaped cricket is a risk wheather you are breeding them or you just buy them. That is what a cat is for. :)
 
lol we do have plenty of cats, although only one is inside. I wasn't going to use uv lights cause I read some are for it some not and its kinda just another expense, but I can get calcium with D3 added and I'll add vitamins. How often and how many crickets should I feed them? I also heard they eat earthworms and waxworms, so at least earthworms I know I could vary their diet, and maybe waxworms too.
 
Btw, I know I should do PWCs just like in a fish tank but would I have to change out the substrate regularly? Also, I'm wondering about lighting. I heard they don't like it bright but I'd like some plants so what should I do? Currently I have a standard flourescent T8 fixture. Right now its just stock lighting, but I was thinking about getting a GE bulb or something like that. However it would still be only 18 watts. Suggestions?
Also Thanks sooooo much for all the useful information Etunes. Just wondering, have you ever kept or do you keep FBTs?
 
You feed them 3 to 6 crickets about every 2 or 3 days.

Already mintioned it. lol.

Btw, I know I should do PWCs just like in a fish tank but would I have to change out the substrate regularly? Also, I'm wondering about lighting. I heard they don't like it bright but I'd like some plants so what should I do? Currently I have a standard flourescent T8 fixture. Right now its just stock lighting, but I was thinking about getting a GE bulb or something like that. However it would still be only 18 watts. Suggestions?
Also Thanks sooooo much for all the useful information Etunes. Just wondering, have you ever kept or do you keep FBTs?

Ya, you could just do it when you do your other tanks, possibly every 2 weeks.

PLANTS FOR TERRARIUMS AND VIVARIUMS Pollywogs World of Frogs
This is a good plant website for frogs i found. As for the stock lighting will be fine for a start. If you really want to learn about plants and there requirments look it up, find out what plant it is, and give it the neccassary lighting as needed. If you eventually need a little pick up for your plants and want to use a fertilizer don't use your regular fertilizer. Make sure it is ORGANIC. The lizard litter should do fine though. Plants require full spectrum lighting with a color temperature between 5000-7000K for best growth. Most 'normal' home lights are drastically less than 5000K while 'bluer' bulbs can be much higher Kelvin. SO you just have to look at the specafications of the light. Kinda like growing the freshwater plants. You could start by looking for the household bulbs at walmart and see if you can find any like that, but if you want you could look at the pet store and use the PC lighting for aquariums. You could even get another 1 so you can have extra for plants that need higher lighting, like bamboo. Like aquaium lights, don't look at the watts, look at the output/kelvin/etc.

Me personally i have kept them but don't have them now. 1 of my future projects is to convert a 40g breeder or 55g into a big fire belly toad/fire belly newt habitat. Also hoping to breed them when i do this :cool:.
 
Already mintioned it. lol.
Woops sorry must have missed that lol



Ya, you could just do it when you do your other tanks, possibly every 2 weeks.

PLANTS FOR TERRARIUMS AND VIVARIUMS Pollywogs World of Frogs
This is a good plant website for frogs i found. As for the stock lighting will be fine for a start. If you really want to learn about plants and there requirments look it up, find out what plant it is, and give it the neccassary lighting as needed. If you eventually need a little pick up for your plants and want to use a fertilizer don't use your regular fertilizer. Make sure it is ORGANIC. The lizard litter should do fine though. Plants require full spectrum lighting with a color temperature between 5000-7000K for best growth. Most 'normal' home lights are drastically less than 5000K while 'bluer' bulbs can be much higher Kelvin. SO you just have to look at the specafications of the light. Kinda like growing the freshwater plants. You could start by looking for the household bulbs at walmart and see if you can find any like that, but if you want you could look at the pet store and use the PC lighting for aquariums. You could even get another 1 so you can have extra for plants that need higher lighting, like bamboo. Like aquaium lights, don't look at the watts, look at the output/kelvin/etc.
Sadly, my lfs's don't have any lighting other than standard flourescents. With the GE, they have Plant/Aquarium Bulbs which is what I was thinking about using. Thanks for the link btw.

Me personally i have kept them but don't have them now. 1 of my future projects is to convert a 40g breeder or 55g into a big fire belly toad/fire belly newt habitat. Also hoping to breed them when i do this :cool:.

That sounds awesome. If you do, make sure you start a thread, cause I'd really like to see it.

I'll keep doing more research and if I have more ?s I'll post them here. I'm thinking about using Print or maybe even google sketch up (if I can figure out how to work it hahaha) to plan things out. Again, thanks for all the help so far.
 
Here's one of the setup plans:
img_1064791_0_f6db8c1063c6a4b93508bec0f73dec44.jpg

I forgot to put rocks on the land in the pic so keep that in mind. I wouldn't be able to put anything live in here until after vacation (that is, if we go on one, which would probly be early June). I'll have some more set-up plans later.
 
II wouldn't be able to put anything live in here until after vacation (that is, if we go on one, which would probly be early June).

That would be fine.

btw, where could I get some moss, should I just go out in the woods behind my house and get it or buy some online?

i would be iffy about collecting it behind you rhouse. ALOT of people do it though. You can use the java moss from aquariums as long as it stays moist. Here is a site you can buy it from + other plants.
Plants and Supplies

The only thing i see that i would change is i would use REAL driftwood not fake. And i would make some sort of waterfal with the filter to reduce the noise. Another thought is that even though crickets should be there main diet you can feed them diced earthworms or nightcrawlers for a treat.
 
That would be fine.



i would be iffy about collecting it behind you rhouse. ALOT of people do it though. You can use the java moss from aquariums as long as it stays moist. Here is a site you can buy it from + other plants.
Plants and Supplies

The only thing i see that i would change is i would use REAL driftwood not fake. And i would make some sort of waterfal with the filter to reduce the noise. Another thought is that even though crickets should be there main diet you can feed them diced earthworms or nightcrawlers for a treat.

I put Fake DW, because I have some already lol. I'll check the lfs for real DW tho, if its small enough I know one lfs's DW is REALLY expensive. btw:
I also heard they eat earthworms and waxworms, so at least earthworms I know I could vary their diet, and maybe waxworms too.
 
Just wanted to give you some pics for ideas.

firebellytoad6.jpg


firebellytoad5.jpg


firebellytoad3.jpg


firebellytoad2.jpg


firebellytoad.jpg


firebellytoad4.jpg


In the 2nd or 3rd pic is what i was talking about doing with the filter. To reduce the noise/bubbles. The only thing different i would do it is cover it with some sort of plant or something to hide it. The last tank is what i am planning on doing. I am gonna make a custom background and everything. You could experiment with fish if you want (cheap guppies or something). But you would need to keep up with water changes because there toxins they secrete will kill them. When i do mine it is gonna be packed with ghost shrimp. A good snack and cheap. :D You could use rocks from outside. Just remember to scrub, bleach, then bake them for cleansing.
 
Wow thanks those look really cool. I know just where to get my rocks lol. Also, I'm wondering, how Lumens/output should I aim for. I know I need 6400-6700 K.
 
You need between 5000 to 7000K. When i say like freshwater plants i mean like freshwater plants. I mean if you can follow the specifications you are good. Plants are plants. The only difference is that you don't have to worry about light penetration. Some plants take more light and other plants take less.
 
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