20 gallon Q & A build

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Since they take well to trimming, you can "stagger" trim them low in the front and taller in the back. Won't solve the growth rate issue but will take advantage of rapid regrowth (for presentation purposes). I had the same thing happen with Pogostemon erectus. I moved it to a corner and it looks better and impacts other plants less.


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Thanks Fresh. I'm thinking about moving them behind the sword's in the corners. I don't think the swords would be as affected by some shading as the other plants.
 
I may have to break my own rules and get something to take care of this algae.
 
Welcome to my world. I got some Oto's and I see them swimming around everywhere eating it all away.


Caleb

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What's the minimum number I could put in a 20 and still be enough to make them happy. Or do they even need to be in a group?

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From my understanding they prefer groups, they stay quite small anyway.


Caleb

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I have atleast 3 in my tank. I would say that's the minimum, but i could be wrong

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From my understanding they prefer groups, they stay quite small anyway.


Caleb

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I have atleast 3 in my tank. I would say that's the minimum, but i could be wrong

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Thanks. I guess I'll look for 3 this week end. I can clean the glass but its the plants that need it. I'm upping my glute per mebbid to see if that will help also.

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What type of algae are you seeing? Otos don't take care of all types. They prefer the soft stuff. If it's GSA, look into getting a Nerite snail (just one if you don't want non-viable eggs everywhere). I've enjoyed mine, they do a pretty good job.


Definitely not wasting time. Nope.
 
I may have to break my own rules and get something to take care of this algae.


What kind of algae are you seeing? GSA or GDA on the glass? I had that plus GSA on the star repens. Increased phosphate helped with the star repens but I was still cleaning the front and side glass every 3-4 days. I reduced the lighting from each fixture by 1 hour (overlap went from 3 hours to 1 hour) and I've only cleaned the front glass once or twice in the last couple of months. Yes, I have recently added Otos but they spend more time on the substrate and plants than on the glass.
How much CO2 are you adding? Or better, what color is the drop checker during the light period?

For those who hate acronyms...
GSA = Green Spot Algae
GDA = Green Dusy Algae



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Looks like green hair algae on the Ludwigia repens and the swords. The stars just have diatoms on the older leaves. I get a little GSA on the glass but not too bad. I clean the glass weekly. Up until now I dose leafzone, flourish and co2 booster per instructions on the bottles. DIY co2 showing about 2 BPS in the counter. Fluval indicator is lime green 24/7. Lights at 65% for 8 hours.
 
I'm having the same problem Mike. GSA on the glass and more green trying to come in on my rocks. I have to scrub it every other day. Looking at using window tinting to dim my light.


Caleb

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Grabbed the last 2 ottos at petsmart. They are on sale for $1.44 and a mystery snail. The ottos look real good and fat so hopefully they will live.
 
I didn't quarantine my 5 otos I bought from the petsmart by me. Had one for sure death, one MIA presumed KIA, and 3 healthy otos.
Putting the otos into a QT could be worse than putting them in the main tank because it would put more stress on them plus possibly a lack of food.

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My recent purchases have been from an LFS and *everything* goes into QT. Not the end of the world if I bring something in (not like I have discus) but I'd rather not go down that route (again). All 3 Otos did fine through a 2 week QT but one died the first night in the display tank. Same with the ember tetras; 7 in the DT, 2 disappeared after a few days.


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Just did a video on the Lyonsi and figured I would post one on the 20

 
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